Another #*&!$ Paint Questions

[Tomnistuff]

I'm sure that most of you veterans are tired of paint questions, but I'm a new guy (albeit an old one) and am paranoid about making a mistake.

I was lucky enough to embark on  the restoration of my 67 Italian 230SL a little while before issue 12 of Pagoda World was published.  See the luck?  Not only did that issue contain part 2 of Bob Possel's 71 280SL restoration story, but it also contained two photos of Martijn Sjerps' BBB (Blue on Blue on Blue) Pagoda.

I think the BBB color combination is the classiest I've ever seen.  My research (hopefully not flawed) tells me that Martijn's Pagoda is dark blue #332 and that #332 is not a metallic paint.  Now the questions:  "Is there any reason why I should not paint my 67 Italian 230SL in dark blue #332?"  My interior is dark blue leather, like Martijn's and the soft top is dark blue, like Martijn's.  If I paint it that color, what kind of paint would you guys recommend?  I want something durable, but also easily retouchable, since I plan to drive it three seasons (short ones here in Quebec) for the rest of my life.

I will appreciate your sharing any advice or experience that any of you may have, and especially from you Martijn, since it's your car I want mine to look like.

Another subject:  After owning, and neglecting, the car for 24 years, I just noticed that a previous owner drilled two holes and installed the radio delete plate 230SL emblem on the glove box beside the map light.  It looked so natural that I never knew it was not factory installed.  I like the emblem but one of the pins is broken now and the emblems are very expensive to replace.  For authenticity, should I just weld up the holes during the body restoration and repaint?

Again, advice will be appreciated.

Tom Kizer

[Garry]

I think you paint it any colour you like and I agree that the blues look fantastic. That is a question that is ofter asked here, paint to the original or paint to your liking.  I guess the variation in value is nil, but there will be some loss of buyers that may want to insist that they buy a car that is original colour.

And fill the holes in the glove box whilst doing the repaint.

[114015]

Fully agree with Garry,


Achim

[fmen3366]

If it's a bare metal respray, by all means paint the car the color you want. That blue is majestic. I resprayed mine the original Papyrus White a couple of years ago. It still leaves me to wonder what if I painted it the blue...If there is a next time, I just might.

Andy

[Tomnistuff]

Thanks, guys.  OK, the paint color and the glove box door hole decisions are settled.  The radio delete plate 230SL chrome emblem goes away and the holes in the glove box door get filled.  The paint becomes DB332, but only after I see a sample in real life, not just in a photo.  I hope I can see a color chip at my Mercedes dealer.  If all else fails, I'll have a pint mixed and sample sprayed, so I can compare it to the cloth top and the leather.

Now I need advice about which kind of paint.  I'm a mechanical engineer by profession and by nature, and as such, I know nothing about paint.  What paint type is recommended for the best combination of beauty, durability, and repairability.  I don't want a metallic because it's too difficult to retouch, based on my experience with the last car I restored and sold.  Anyway, apparently DB332 is not metallic, so that's not a problem.

Any suggestions about paint chemistry?

Tom Kizer

[Benz Dr.]

All paint will eventually become water base. There are two basic choices, single stage or base clear. There are a number of diffrent companies making paint and it may depend on your body man and what he likes to use. 

[66andBlue]

...  The radio delete plate 230SL chrome emblem goes away ....

Tom,
I hope you do not throw the emblem away! 
Buy a blank plate, paint it in the same color as your chassis and you have a $250 item in your hand that you can treasure! 
I ordered one for my 230SL also from this vendor:
http://www.authenticclassics.com/Blank-230SL-250SL-Radio-Delete-Plate-early-type-p/auth-003182.htm

I do like your color selection, almost identical to the later 904G that I picked for my 280SL.
In my view the paint chemistry is less important than the paint shop, that is, how much time they spend on the details. Dark blue and black are probably the most unforgiving colors because you can see flaws a lot easier than on a white or beige car. My paint shop uses only Glasurit and in California "single stage" paints are out, so base coat/clear it will be.
I spent almost the whole afternoon at the shop today looking at the car which is now in the primer stage (dark colored primer). The owner and his foreman and I looked at the chassis along the long lines after another employee made it wet with some mineral spirits to make it really shiny. Passenger door was perfect, driver side had a small area with a slight undulation and on top of the rear panels next to the soft top well were a few minor "waves" also. Those were marked with green and will be block-sanded again. Without the "wetting" and making it "glossy" it would have been impossible to see any flaws.
But I was really happy that the owner had called me in to be there when the checking went on.
By the end next week I hope to post a photo showing the blue finish.

[thelews]

Without the "wetting" and making it "glossy" it would have been impossible to see any flaws.

Body men often have water handy when block sanding a car.  They do the area, often wet sanding, then rewet to look for flatness.

The glossier the car, the more you see.  Oftentimes people will take their car to a detail shop, have it all polished and shined up and then wonder what happened to their car because they now see all the bumps, dents, ripples, bodywork, etc., that they didn't see before the car was shiny. 

[Benz Dr.]

Body men often have water handy when block sanding a car.  They do the area, often wet sanding, then rewet to look for flatness.

The glossier the car, the more you see.  Oftentimes people will take their car to a detail shop, have it all polished and shined up and then wonder what happened to their car because they now see all the bumps, dents, ripples, bodywork, etc., that they didn't see before the car was shiny. 

That's why I never wax my car.

[Tomnistuff]

On my return trip home from Cavallino Classic in Palm Beach, I discovered the ultimate product for hiding bumps, dents, ripples and scratches.
Tom Kizer

[W113SL]

DB 332 Dark Blue or Dunkel Blau is  a very attractive color  I have a color sample in my Glassurit color chip book, but they always appear darker in the book.  If I compare it to the later version DB 904, also named Dunkel Blau which was intorduced in 1968, it appears just a tad lighter and richer.

If you could turn back the clock, you could paint it in Ditzler acrylic lacquer which is super easy to blend in a touch up.  I doubt you can even buy acrylic lacquers any longer.

it is always wiser if you must change the color, to paint it in a color that was availble for the year and model you are refinishing.  Therefore you have made a wise choice.

W113SL