Author Topic: Softtop compartment seal installation  (Read 4481 times)

69280sl

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Softtop compartment seal installation
« on: October 13, 2011, 18:45:40 »
Just received my new replacement seal , thanks Dave Gallon. At the ends of the "horse shoe",(picture) the seal channel is very narrow. Is it necessary to straighten out the sheet metal and re-crimp it after the new seal is in, or is it possible to stuff the new seal into the channel? Any other tips and suggestions are appreciated.

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Gus

68 280sl, signal red/ beige/black softtop. Car # 1084

IXLR8

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Re: Softtop compartment seal installation
« Reply #1 on: October 13, 2011, 21:11:16 »
Hi

I think you'll find that the narrow area is only external as the channel goes under the outside skin. The sheet metal flange should be straightened as it sometimes will be bent, but the seal will fit under the skin.

Joe

69280sl

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Re: Softtop compartment seal installation
« Reply #2 on: October 13, 2011, 22:14:04 »
Thank you Joe.

Gus
Gus

68 280sl, signal red/ beige/black softtop. Car # 1084

ja17

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Re: Softtop compartment seal installation
« Reply #3 on: October 17, 2011, 12:33:16 »
This gasket gets a lot of abuse. Be sure to clean the groove well. Also clean the new rubber with some alcohol since a mold release agent may still be on the new rubber part. Use the MB black weather strip adhesive or the black 3M weatherstrip adhesive.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Ulf

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Re: Softtop compartment seal installation
« Reply #4 on: October 17, 2011, 12:42:41 »
here is a thread with do's (others) and don'ts (mine): http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=14671.msg100228#msg100228
1965 230 SL in silver (DB180)
1982 Land Rover Series III SWB
2008 Jaguar XF 3.0
2005 Mini Cooper

69280sl

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Re: Softtop compartment seal installation
« Reply #5 on: October 17, 2011, 14:53:11 »
Here's what worked for me:

I ended up widening the channel in the crimped area a little bit, sliding the seal in from the rear to the front, and then re-crimping. Do the crimped section on both sides first (be sure the seal is straight up along its entire lenght before glueing anything). Then glue the middle of the seal at the bottom of the "U". There is a mold mark that allows lining up with the center of the top retaining pin. After this adhesive cures it is easy to glue the rest of the seal into the channel on both sides of center. Worked fine for me but if someone has a better way that's great .

When removing the old seal, I found it works best to poke something that won't gouge or scratch the paint under the seal and then levering up while moving along. Something like opening the top of a tin can. I had tried pulling up on the old seal with pliers but all I got was pea sized pieces. Would have taken forever.

To remove the old adhesive I got weatherstrip adhesive remover  from 3M. I thought since they make the adhesive, I would use their remover. Seems to be a citrus product. Possibly any citrus degreaser would work as well at less cost. To get the little "stick ons", a minature BRASS wire brush in a rotary (dremel) tool makes short work of it.

Gus
« Last Edit: October 17, 2011, 22:05:33 by 69280sl »
Gus

68 280sl, signal red/ beige/black softtop. Car # 1084