Author Topic: Printing Pagoda Parts (Read 32620 times)

dorian · « **on:** January 12, 2012, 06:55:28 »

Hey guys, the 3D printing arena is really starting to heat up!

Jay Leno's been doing it for a while:
http://www.jaylenosgarage.com/extras/articles/jay-lenos-3d-printer-replaces-rusty-old-parts-1/

The latest machines cost under US$2000 and can print plastic parts as big as a loaf of bread, in two colors:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DY6VSu-oOws&feature=player_embedded

It's time to start thinking and talking about how we'll take advantage of this technology. Will we be sharing scans of parts soon?

I'm already dreaming of getting a set of top latch handles printed for less than the US$220 they're going for on eBay today.

stickandrudderman · « **Reply #1 on:** January 12, 2012, 08:51:58 »

Be aware that these "printed" items are not meant to be the final article that will replace your metal components. They are an excellent tool for making models of parts which can then be used to verify the dimensions and assist in the manufacture of the item from the final material.
Unless of course you only want a plastic part......

mdsalemi · « **Reply #2 on:** January 12, 2012, 12:52:46 »

I saw two similar machines in use at Bosch on my tour of their facility here (see another post on the subject).

Kind of a misnomer to call them printers, but whatever.

The ones highlighted here create non-functional models, using plastic "wire". Bosch has one of these to create non-functional parts; models as it were.

They have another unit, costing well into the hundreds of thousands of dollars, that creates fully functional, structural parts that can be used. Instead of plastic wire it uses a specialized powdered plastic structural media, lays down a thin layer, and the high power laser in a CAT (tomography) process burns and solidifies the plastic. Onto the next layer... I saw some extremely complex casings and other parts, fully functional, made this way.

It takes about 6 hours to make a full complement of parts to the edges of the manufacturing envelope. They don't run the machine until they can "stack" the 3D burn envelope full, since it takes the same amount of time to make one part as it does a full complement of them...and they run it overnight.

Very cool stuff, but not cheap.

Cees Klumper · « **Reply #3 on:** January 12, 2012, 16:32:34 »

Isn't this how computers started out, as big costly things 'the size of a room' - perhaps one day we will all have one at home or in the workshop, and it can just make brake pads, springs, tires or whatever goes into the Pagoda (other than gogo juice probably) for us.

mdsalemi · « **Reply #4 on:** January 12, 2012, 21:27:23 »

Quote from: Cees Klumper on January 12, 2012, 16:32:34

Isn't this how computers started out, as big costly things 'the size of a room' - perhaps one day we will all have one at home or in the workshop, and it can just make brake pads, springs, tires or whatever goes into the Pagoda (other than gogo juice probably) for us.

Yes.

FYI: the computer I used to layout Pagoda Style cost about $1,200 in 2006. I used about $1,000 worth of additional software, a $300 scanner, and a $400 printer. It all fit on my desk and looked like any other office PC set up.

Back when I started in the graphics business, the system to do this cost nearly $1,000,000; required a room full of equipment; 15 kVa of power supply; a commensurate amount of cooling equipment as well. The scanner weighed 2 tons, cost another $500,000, and filled up another room. The 300MB disk drives were the size of washing machines. Back then the operators of this equipment earned $50,000 a year.

pj · « **Reply #5 on:** January 16, 2012, 18:52:18 »

I need a radio delete plate. It's small, simple, hardly structural and pretty expensive from the suppliers I've checked. (E.g. www.authenticclassics.com/Radio-Delete-Plate-230SL-p/auth-003068.htm ) All that matters is that it fits, hang on and look good. Perhaps this would make a good test article for a 3d printer.

Tomnistuff · « **Reply #6 on:** January 16, 2012, 22:40:47 »

A radio delete plate is probably a better job for eMachineshop.com. Design it yourself with their free software and have them make it from sheet metal. I tend to think 3D printing is probably better for objects with a substantial third dimension to provide more structural integrity - but I may be wrong.
Tom Kizer

mdsalemi · « **Reply #7 on:** June 06, 2013, 12:31:57 »

http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424127887323372504578469560282127852.html?KEYWORDS=3d+printing

This in today's Wall Street Journal. It's in Ford's design inventory...

A peculiar and disturbing trend I've noticed--and why I will never move away from print (INK on PAPER) is that this link above, is a slightly different, abridged version of what was in today's paper. So, if you like that article, go find the print edition...everything online seems to be abridged, the "Cliff's Notes" version of what the author wrote. Very disheartening.

Flyair · « **Reply #8 on:** June 06, 2013, 13:14:41 »

I could witness a real time exhibition, where some simple elements were produced as we watched. I think that we are today at the stage of early IBM PC or even Atari sets, so to speak, in terms of advancement, but I have no slightest doubt that a couple of years from today, we will have specialized boutiques offering Pagoda elements. Just wonder what MB will do to protect their design rights. BTW aren't those rights expiring after something like 50 years (we must be close...

star63 · « **Reply #9 on:** January 04, 2014, 19:16:26 »

I bought a 3D-printer as a christmas present for the kids. And my wife. And myself

------
I'm not sure if this shaft end should have a cover or not.

Anyway, it served as a perfect place to test if this small 3D-printer could be used to fabricate "real" parts for my Pagoda.

At first I designed the part with a computer:

And then, printed it...

To be honest, the first try wasn't a 100% success. I had to make a few corrections to my model before the part printed as I had planned.

I used ABS-plastic as a filament. The next picture was taken after I had smoothened the "wire-pattern" with sand paper.

And the cover installed...

I noticed that the shape doesn't match with the manifold casting but now it's quite easy to modify the model and print a new one

rutger kohler · « **Reply #10 on:** January 04, 2014, 19:38:11 »

The titanium sintering process some of you mention is the way forward. One of the huge advantages of this from an engineering point of view is that there is no waste, A machine die can be fabricated exactly as required with no machining. I can see a time when an intricate part is required in Oz or NZ and the buyer buys a licence to download a 3D drawing which translates into the actual metal part thriough the 3D printer. No more transport costs!

We have also seen a tv progam where replacement bones are made with all the honey combing that makes real bones lightweight, but strong, and also allows flesh to "grow" into them for better adhesion.

If I was younger i would look seriously at setting up such a system here in NZ. The sticking point at the moment is 3D "camera" that translate the exisitbg part into a 3D drawing I think?

DaveB · « **Reply #11 on:** January 04, 2014, 20:24:11 »

I think a standard camera can be used, the object placed on a rotating stage, software constructs a 3D drawing from the multiple perspective images.

star63 · « **Reply #12 on:** January 04, 2014, 21:27:57 »

Laser scanning has been in use for some time now but the system is still quite expensive for occasional garage use

.

DaveB · « **Reply #13 on:** January 05, 2014, 01:00:47 »

That would be a better way to go if making a business out of it.
And yes there is a meant to be a cover over that end of the shaft - it looks much like your construction.

zoegrlh · « **Reply #14 on:** January 05, 2014, 15:08:39 »

DaveB
Do you have the part number for the cover. I too am missing one, and would like to get one.
Thanks,
Bob

Jonny B · « **Reply #15 on:** January 05, 2014, 17:34:13 »

Not sure about the manual cars, but on the automatics, there is an idling switch that senses the throttle butterfly position (000 545 24 04). My parts book does not show anything else.

W113SL · « **Reply #16 on:** January 07, 2014, 03:31:59 »

The 280's did not have this cover. only the 230 and 250.

I have an early factory photo of a 280SL which clearly shows this cover is missing. I challenged an owner of a 1969 280SL with manual trans at Legends of the Autobahn as his throttle housing was missing the coverr. We researched it and have determined that it was left off the manual trans 280SL's.

Pete Lesler
W113SL

DaveB · « **Reply #17 on:** January 07, 2014, 07:40:14 »

Thanks Pete, my 230 has the cover so I assumed all would. The 280 version looks a little unfinished in comparison (IMO) but it's obviously not a critical part.

andyburns · « **Reply #18 on:** January 07, 2014, 07:47:03 »

For some time I have been wondering if it is possible to print either a stamp or a paint mask for putting back on the lettering on the side of the various relays after restoring the cases. I wonder if this technology would make this job easy. Would be easy enough to come up with the artwork, have already done this. Do you guys think this would be possible?

Garry · « **Reply #19 on:** January 07, 2014, 09:46:22 »

Andy,

Wallace Wheeler, AKA wwheeler, a member, was producing the relay lettering for putting on the various four and five pin relays and also the small rubber grommets for fitting the relays to the engine bay wall. I have used them several times on my cars and they were excellent Not sure if he is still doing it. Suggest PM him

Garry

66andBlue · « **Reply #20 on:** January 10, 2014, 05:12:25 »

Quote from: zoegrlh on January 05, 2014, 15:08:39

DaveB
Do you have the part number for the cover. I too am missing one, and would like to get one.
Thanks,
Bob

Bob,
see http://www.ebay.com/itm/360830806976

DaveB · « **Reply #21 on:** January 10, 2014, 10:39:13 »

Bob,
I had a look but couldn't find a part number for the cover. My edition C 230SL parts book has an unusual looking 'idling switch' (000 545 24 04) in that place. This edition C has the version of the throttle body with the warming coolant pipe around it.
That german ebay part 000 141 00 19 would no doubt work but does not look like the plate on my 230SL, which has an additional raised section in the middle.

66andBlue · « **Reply #22 on:** January 11, 2014, 01:10:39 »

Quote from: star63 on January 04, 2014, 21:27:57

Laser scanning has been in use for some time now but the system is still quite expensive for occasional garage use .

A lot less than a new front grill with star ... ~ $1,100

Of course still prohibitive for the occasional single part.
http://store.makerbot.com/digitizer
... or if you like crowd sourcing you can get in for $350:
http://www.3ders.org/articles/20130328-affordable-photon-3d-scanner-scan-items-with-one-click.html

and once you have your file you can go to the UPS store and make the part on their printer:
http://theupsstorelocal.com/6322/products--services/small-business-solutions/3d-printing/3d-printing-services

jedwards · « **Reply #23 on:** January 11, 2014, 23:42:29 »

I made a new automatic gate insert and new door catch rollers on my 3D printer. They work perfecting

If you really want see what can be done, take a look at this..
http://www.gizmodo.com.au/2013/08/a-new-zealander-is-building-a-full-sized-aston-martin-db4-with-the-help-of-a-3d-printer/

66andBlue · « **Reply #24 on:** January 12, 2014, 03:41:50 »

Did you scan the old part or design the new part using some kind of CAD program?

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Author Topic: Printing Pagoda Parts (Read 32620 times)

dorian

W113SL

jedwards