Author Topic: Bolt crankshaft  (Read 4823 times)

Rick007

  • Full Member
  • Silver
  • ****
  • Netherlands, Noord-Brabant, Breda
  • Posts: 251
  • 250 sl silver/red
Bolt crankshaft
« on: March 31, 2012, 20:33:13 »
Hi forum,

Got my engine out and want to replace the front oil seal , but can't seem to get the bolt that holds the pulley of the crankshaft
It almost seems its tightened anti clockwise ...... Because it just doesn't budge in any way . I don't want to add any heat but running out of options .
Any tips out there ?

Greetings
RICK007
'67 MB 250SL

twistedtree

  • Inactive
  • Gold
  • *****
  • USA, MA, Gloucester
  • Posts: 618
Re: Bolt crankshaft
« Reply #1 on: March 31, 2012, 22:42:58 »
It's a normal thread.  My first choice would be an impact wrench.  Otherwise you'll need to lock the crank from rotating, then use a long breaker bar.
Peter Hayden
1964 MB 230SL
1970 MB 280SL
2011 BMW 550xi

Jack Jones

  • Full Member
  • Silver
  • ****
  • Canada, ON, Milton
  • Posts: 396
Re: Bolt crankshaft
« Reply #2 on: April 01, 2012, 01:31:16 »
If the engine was still in the car, you can use the starter to loosen a front pulley bolt. You must have a socket on the front pulley bolt and use a long good quality breaker bar. Then you have the bar resting against the right underside of the frame rail using a piece of wood between to protect your painted surface. Disable the ignition system since the last thing you want is the engine to start. Use the starter in short bursts to free the bolt. I use this as a last resort and you must have a good understanding of the system before you try this. NOT FOR THE FAINT OF HEART! 
Jack Jones                                                                                                   
1970 280SL 4 Speed
1984 280SL 5 Speed

ja17

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, OH, Blacklick
  • Posts: 7414
Re: Bolt crankshaft
« Reply #3 on: April 01, 2012, 04:08:49 »
Hello,

Figure out how to hold the engine from turning by securing the flywheel. Lots of options back there. The factory makes a special tool of coarse. As mentioned a good strong impact gun is the quick and easy way, but you will still need to find a way to lock the engine for the final torque during re-assembly.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

Rick007

  • Full Member
  • Silver
  • ****
  • Netherlands, Noord-Brabant, Breda
  • Posts: 251
  • 250 sl silver/red
Re: Bolt crankshaft
« Reply #4 on: April 01, 2012, 07:19:56 »
Thanks guys , it's still a matter force then . Will get hold of a big bar and try it that way .
Btw I tried the impact gun ..... No luck there

RICK007
'67 MB 250SL

ja17

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, OH, Blacklick
  • Posts: 7414
Re: Bolt crankshaft
« Reply #5 on: April 01, 2012, 13:44:22 »
Hello Rick,

There are impact guns then there are impact guns...........Your local Truck technician will have an impact gun which will do the job.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

wwheeler

  • Vendor
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, TX, Dallas
  • Posts: 2899
Re: Bolt crankshaft
« Reply #6 on: April 02, 2012, 04:46:57 »
The bolt is torqued to 150 ft lbs. when installed. That should give you an idea of how tight it is. Who knows what torque it will take to budge it since it has been on for awhile.
Wallace
Texas
'68 280SE W111 coupe
'60 220SE W128 coupe
'70 Plymouth Roadrunner 440+6

Rick007

  • Full Member
  • Silver
  • ****
  • Netherlands, Noord-Brabant, Breda
  • Posts: 251
  • 250 sl silver/red
Re: Bolt crankshaft
« Reply #7 on: April 02, 2012, 08:09:29 »
Yes got the bolt off finaly the big bar did the trick .  But now the pulley itself .....my Puller is just a bit to small ...pfffff
Thats the great thing with these cars , once you get around one problem the next one surfaces ...:)

Thanks for the tips gentleman .

RICK007
'67 MB 250SL

Eminent

  • Guest
Re: Bolt crankshaft
« Reply #8 on: April 17, 2012, 21:01:31 »
Well. I'm curious how you'll give it the final torque when assembled again.
How others did that?

Benz Dr.

  • Associate Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Canada, ON, Port Lambton
  • Posts: 7220
  • Benz Dr.
Re: Bolt crankshaft
« Reply #9 on: April 18, 2012, 03:02:31 »
It's easier than you might think. I use a 3/8 extension and jam it between the harmonic ballancer and the water pump housing.  Once I have it tight I turn the engine backwards a small amount and remove it. You can do the same thing to remove the screw although an impact gun wil usually remove them without too much trouble.
I oil the threads lightly and also the cupped washers which helps to make everything torque down nicely.
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC