Author Topic: Restoration In Process (Read 18220 times)

escapee · « **on:** July 16, 2012, 14:21:24 »

Hi All,

I am from Malaysia, got my W113 about 6 months ago, 250SL auto, RHD.

Now in the (slow) process of restoring it. Engine running good, most of the works are replacing the rubber parts and repainting. I suspect something is wrong with the auto gear box too, cant seem to be able to shift into the 4th gear. Current work done:

- Absorbers, engine mounting replaced. Most of the rubber parts like bushing, rubber mounts all changed.
- Currently undergoing major repainting work, will replace all rubber seals after paint work is done. Will replace the fire wall insulation also.

Thanks all for reading.

Larry & Norma · « **Reply #1 on:** July 16, 2012, 15:52:01 »

Nice project, keep the pictures coming!

reggie · « **Reply #2 on:** July 16, 2012, 18:02:00 »

Hi Escapee
I think you will find its reaching top gear, It will only change twice from rest unless you floor it, They start in second gear normaly, So two changes, 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th, Then the engine sounds busy because its low geared, You wonder when top arrives, It dosent

I thought the same,
But i may be wrong, Before i get jumped on by the more experienced on hear,
Keep the pictures coming as you go along,
Good luck with it,
Reggie

escapee · « **Reply #3 on:** July 30, 2012, 14:32:33 »

Thanks for sharing, i will monitor further.

114015 · « **Reply #4 on:** July 30, 2012, 18:24:56 »

Hello escapee,

Please make sure that your right headlight fits properly before you continue painting the car.
The right inner lower edge of the the right headlight housing was patch repaired by welding. This looks to me "thicker" than it initially was (see left housing for comparison). Fitting the headlight may be tight; please check appropriately.

And .... don't forget the headlight notches.

http://www.motoringinvestments.com/280SL_BuyersGuide.htm

Good luck!

Achim

escapee · « **Reply #5 on:** August 20, 2012, 04:16:49 »

Hi guys,

I am back with a new coat of paint. Now in the final phrase of ordering more seals and items that i missed out earlier.

Questions:
1. Anybody knows what exactly is 113-686-01-36, 113-686-02-36, 113-686-03-36 & 113-686-04 -36. On my list its say Sill Trim Inner & Outer. I need to know is these 4 item rubber trim or the chrome metal trill?

2. Need to replace the cavas top, but I can only get it from the supplier in black color while the orignal color is tan (off-white). Will it be a concern considering this is a vintage car?

3. In the process of restoring the paint, all the chrome metal parts are removed. Some are in good condition while some the chrome material has already degraded. Should i order new parts or it to re-chrome? If re-chorme, will it last? i heard from the painter that our local chroming can only last 2-3 years.

ivory white.

Garry · « **Reply #6 on:** August 20, 2012, 05:18:43 »

The part numbers according to my 230 parts book are the inner and outer (aluminium) rails, both left and right that hold the carpet on the inner and on the outer are affixed over the door rubber entry pad and the body.

As far as the soft top goes, there are quite a few manufacturer and suppliers that can provide the tan top. Don't settle for less. On our own Forum suppliers list the is the MB Classic Centre, Buds, Millers and SLS as four that can provide one. Do some searches here on the forum re comments on the difference between makers and materials.

On the chroming, it is as good as the Supplier. I think the better the chromer is the better the job and it is very price sensitive based on how thick the plating is. I would be finding the best plater you can get and get the items redone. You may get some warp with them but it is always better to use the original items rather than repo's as they will tend to fit back on correctly when done.

Its looking good but you may well regret not taking out the engine and doing the engine bay the correct body colour whilst at it and that way all the equipment in there can be cleaned and either re painted or plated as it was originally.

Garry

escapee · « **Reply #7 on:** August 20, 2012, 13:49:05 »

The canvas i am getting from Authorised Mers dealer, the product they are supplying is 100% original. Just that they only have black color now. If i were to order directly from the manufacturer, the shipping cost is going to kill me. Still pondering....

Yeap, now that you mentioned the location where these 4 items are supposed to go, i got the picture. Thanks a lot.

Chrome...thanks for your input.

Garry · « **Reply #8 on:** August 20, 2012, 22:11:44 »

Have a look at this site, I am in the process of getting carpet from them but they also have the original tops as well. I suspect that by the time you ship from them they will still be cheaper than the local MB Dealer.

http://www.cabrio.de/khm/

bogeyman · « **Reply #9 on:** August 20, 2012, 22:51:50 »

Garry:
Please keep us advised how it turns out.
I am also considering them as they seem to be the only source for the correct green carpets and top.

Garry · « **Reply #10 on:** August 21, 2012, 05:28:20 »

I will as I am going to call in on them next month in Stuttgart to have a look at their workshop whilst over there for the Euro Tour.

Alfred, 66andBlue, did a lot of research on the carpets and gave me the details.

Garry

escapee · « **Reply #11 on:** August 21, 2012, 08:18:31 »

Hi guys, need help again.

I am ordering the firewall insulation (original) from the A.D., although i doubth it will look the same as the original from the 1960, but at least its from Daimler. However for the firewall grommet set, the number i gave to the A.D. does not show a valid product, i.e. no such product. 113-997-00-01.*
Able to help me verify is the product number correct? Many thanks in advance.

*Note: Product numbers are taken from K&K catalogs.

Garry, I will check out your source and liase with them for costing.

Garry · « **Reply #12 on:** August 21, 2012, 08:28:46 »

Dont know about K and K but I just ordered and received a set from Buds Benz for $119USD

escapee · « **Reply #13 on:** August 21, 2012, 14:26:46 »

Hi Gary, able to let me know the part number you used for the firewall grommet set?

Garry · « **Reply #14 on:** August 21, 2012, 22:02:08 »

The Buds Part Number is on the photo. http://www.budsbenz.com/catalog/200/O%20-%20Rubber%20Seals

I don't know if there is an MB part number for the set complete, I dont see it in my parts book.

Garry

114015 · « **Reply #15 on:** August 21, 2012, 23:22:42 »

Quote

I don't know if there is an MB part number for the set complete, I dont see it in my parts book.

A complete firewall grommet set as such is not available from MB. You have to order the grommets individually.
Most of them are in Group 54 (electrical equipement), others in Group 83 (heating) and so on.
The parts number 113 997 0001 does not tell me anything, nor does the parts list 10202 250/280 SL) knows this number.

Got my set of firewall grommets from SLS for about the half of Bud's price.
However, the both sets do not appear to be absolutely identical.
So, please check.

Achim

escapee · « **Reply #16 on:** August 24, 2012, 02:23:47 »

Hi Gary,
Where can I get a copy of your parts book? I am currently using a downloaded version from K&K. Most of their parts number are correct, but some are incorrect and is causing headache for me when ordering parts.

Hi Achim,

I cant really order from SLS as its mainly in German and I cant read that.

Guys, need to help to verify the following:
113-766-54-00 (seal pad, door handle, 4pcs)

My supplier said the number given is unkown. I need to check the correct number for the seal pad for the door handles. Both left and right.

harrysidhu · « **Reply #17 on:** August 24, 2012, 04:53:34 »

Hi . I want to be contact as I also just got a 113 250 SL manual and will be starting my restoration project. I am in KL. 012 3852934 harry

escapee · « **Reply #18 on:** August 26, 2012, 08:18:27 »

Hi Harry,

Nice to see a fellow Malaysian with a Pagoda too! You mean you want me to contact you? If not I can be reached at engsc83@hotmail.com

regards

escapee · « **Reply #19 on:** October 12, 2012, 12:13:09 »

Hi guys, need your help. The 'arm' of my soft top frame broke and I ordered an replacement, however the part that I got is not correct. Can someone help to identify the correct part number for my steel 'arm' ?

the incorrect part that i ordered was : 113-770-17-14

Pictures of my steel 'arm'

escapee · « **Reply #20 on:** October 12, 2012, 12:28:00 »

Searched throught the web, seem like the part i need is 1137701814?

thanks

DaveB · « **Reply #21 on:** October 12, 2012, 20:30:38 »

The 230SL parts book edition C lists several versions for these parts: first version 113 770 05 14 (left) and 113 770 06 14 (right), replaced by 113 770 13 14 and 113 770 14 14, then 113 770 15 14 and 113 770 16 14. The picture is Part 3, Table 44, Group 77 if you have the glovebox parts book. It looks like your original. I suspect the part you received is a later 280SL version. The early versions may not be available. Looks like yours could be welded though.
By the way, the odd digits 17 in the part you ordered indicate it's for the left side. Part 113 770 18 14 will simply be the mirror image for the right side, so will not help you.

escapee · « **Reply #22 on:** October 15, 2012, 13:10:47 »

I do not have the glovebox parts book. Where can I get a copy of it?

I tried welding it back, however it broke again when we tried installing it.

So what is the best option for me now? I gave my chassic number to the supplier when ordering my part, end up still gave me the wrong part.

Jonny B · « **Reply #23 on:** October 15, 2012, 21:40:35 »

You can find the parts books on ebay from time to time. The market has sort of got on to the fact that these books are more sought after, and you may find the prices for the glovebox books in the US$ 100-150 range. You also want to make sure you get the one that is appropriate for your year, as the books do reflect the changes in the models (on of the most obvious ones, from memory, is the change in the exhaust headers and the US DOT safety changes). There were two articles in Pagoda Notes that have information on the books. There is a "sticky" on the General Discussion forum that lists which issues.

DaveB · « **Reply #24 on:** October 15, 2012, 23:03:58 »

You could try Gernold at SL-Tech for a used part. Or perhaps, if there's space, try rewelding then welding on a doubler plate over the first weld.

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Author Topic: Restoration In Process (Read 18220 times)

escapee

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harrysidhu

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