Author Topic: chrome polish fallacy  (Read 2958 times)

Jkalplus1

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chrome polish fallacy
« on: September 10, 2012, 15:00:51 »
Gents, your expertise appreciated to avoid costly mistakes:

1- Scratched chrome will remain scratched until it is stripped and rechromed, right?  There is no "buffing out" sctratched chrome?
2- You prevent stored chrome items from pitting by covering them in oil, or similar substance that will shield them from contact with humid air, or is it not necessary?
3- Will our cars rust even if they are never in the rain?  Do you have to live in Arizona or have a climate controlled -humidity controlled, garage all the time?
4- If I have a left half rear bumper that was rechromed 5 years ago, and the chrome is still perfect, will getting the right side rechromed to the same standard yield two similar-looking bumpers?  I want to avoid mismatch...so should I just get two NOS and sell my old, or get both rechromed, or a new right side rechromed bumper will match the look of the still perfect left side chrome?  I ask because sometimes when you paint next to something that was paint years ago, you get "pretty close", but you usually always get a little bit of mismatch in finish, or depth or color, etc.  Now, I think chrome should not matter, but I'd rather ask first, incase one of you encountered this before.

My car has no rust now fresh from rotisserie bodywork and paint, and I'd rather spend money on the heat in my garage than expensive bodywork.  Unless you tell me it is unnecessary overkill, or that it simply cannot be prevented.  What triggered this question is Mike S stating he found rust forming on his showcar, and since I live in a more humid climate...

Many thanks.

Garry

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Re: chrome polish fallacy
« Reply #1 on: September 10, 2012, 15:42:49 »
To answer your questions,

Chrome scratched will normally not be able to be buffed out as the buffing will most likely take off the chrome if the scratch is much more than a few microns deep.

Chrome that is not wiped regularly should be wiped over with a fine machine oil to prevent pitting if stored.  I tend to even wipe my chrome with a rag that is slightly impregnated with light oil always anyway.

And yes they will rust if they have any non treated surface or any existing rust under the paint that you will not be aware off.  There is some humidity in the air at all times so rust will start if it finds bare metal or any porous paint.  I thought my 280SL was rust free but the new owner stripped the car down and still found rust. I no longer think that there is such a thing as rust free, it is just the degrees of rust that every car has. A dehumidifier may help and some others may care to chime in here on how they do it in those colder climates.

Chrome luster depends on its depth which in turn equals cost..  You can only but try it and if it does not match then re-chrome the other item.
Garry Marks
Melbourne/ Kyneton, Brisbane. Australia
1969 MB 280SL 5 speed RHD SOLD.
1965 MB 230SL Auto RHD Lt Blue 334G, Top 350H, Tourist Delivery.
1972 MB 280CE Auto RHD 906G
2005 MB A200
2006 MB B200
2019 Izuzu DMax 4x4 Slide-on camper.
2022 Volvo XC40 Electric
2024 Volvo EX30 Electric

thelews

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Re: chrome polish fallacy
« Reply #2 on: September 10, 2012, 15:45:00 »
It isn't temperature that rusts, but humidity or moisture in the air.  A constant temperature, lower (40% ish) humidity environment is best.  Too dry will dry out and crack leather and rubber.  Temperature variance also causes moisture condensation.  Many a car has rusted out in a barn that never got rain on it.

No, scratched chome cannot be rubbed out, it's not like removing paint.  There are variances in chrome finishes.  You can try buying one (or two and return one) bumper and see how well it matches.
Enjoy some pictures at this link:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8292359@N06/sets/72157603240571101/show/

John - Wisconsin
1967 Early 250 SL Red/Caviar, Manual #1543
1961 190 SL 23K miles
1964 Porsche 356
1970 Porsche 911E
1991 BMW 318is
1966 Jaguar XKE
1971 Alfa Romeo GTV 1750