Drum Brake Car Axle Removal - Alternative

[Tomnistuff]

For those who are uncomfortable using a hammer to remove the rear axle from an SL (like me), here`s a method that works on drum brake axles without bolting a cross-bar to the hub to hammer on.
All it takes is a piece of threaded rod of any length, a single nut and washer and a small piece of wood.  In effect, it`s an "Axle Pusher" instead of an "Axle Puller".  It's really quick and easy and works like a charm.
The instructions are on the photo.
If anyone thinks it's worth inserting the photo next to the existing Axle Removal photo in the Rear Wheel Bearing Tour section of the Technical Manual, feel free.
Tom Kizer

[Garry]

Tom,

Send to me in a higher resolution to my email
bytemarkspty@bigpond.com
 and I will insert it in the brake area of the Tech Manual.

Garry

[Tomnistuff]

I sent you an email with a hires photo, Garry.  Thanks for the offer to put it into the TM.

I found another use for the threaded rod.  Since after removing the rear axle, there is no shaft inside the inner axle seal, a hook type seal puller for that inner seal is really easy to make.  See the sketch and two photos of how it`s made and how it works.
I just used the hammer that I was afraid to use in my previous post to drive out the seal by whacking the cross bar that I slipped over the outer end of the threaded rod.  That`s the same cross bar that I was afraid to use to pull the axle.  Even grabbing the threaded rod with vice-grips and whacking the vice-grips with the hammer to pull the seal would probably work.  I cut out the rubber seal part with a box cutter before inserting the puller, but realized after that it wasn`t necessary.

Tom Kizer

[Tomnistuff]

I think I'm developing an obsession with threaded rods.  This one is for pulling the bearing off the axle shaft (and pressing it back on again later, without damaging the bearing).

After successfully pulling the axle with the threaded rod trick above, and then pulling the inner seal with the other threaded rod trick above, I tried to remove the bearing using Joe Alexander's trick of stabbing a piece of wood on the floor with the inner end of the axle shaft to dislodge the bearing.  It didn't work.  My bearing is really really tight on the shaft.  Of course the bearing is fine (I did the bearing test on the vice) but it has to be removed to get the backing plate off the shaft and the outer seal out of the drum brake backing plate.  It was leaking like a sieve.   I didn't want to put force on the bearing outer race for fear of damaging this expensive bearing so I designed and built a puller to remove the bearing by pulling on the inner race only.

I used 3/16" by 3/4" strip and a couple of 5/16" threaded rods that I bought at Canadian Tire.  At the top of the puller, I ground a threaded pointer to center on the shaft so things wouldn't slip or move around.  The point is not really visible in the photos.  After using it, I would recommend using  thicker steel strip for the two straight pieces of steel.  Although it worked, mine took a slight permanent bend after using it because my bearing was really tight.  1/4" x 3/4" would probably be perfect.

If anyone wants to make one of these pullers and has a problem, don't hesitate to contact me.  It worked like a charm and cost only a few dollars.  There is only one relatively critical dimension, and it only has to be reasonably close.

It is large enough for the threaded rods to clear the outer diameter of the brake drum backing plate so it can be flipped around and used between the opposite side of the bearing and the axle hub to press the bearing onto the shaft as well as pull it off of the shaft.  When I'm putting the system back together, I'll take a couple of photos of that process as well and post it here in a few days.

Tom Kizer

[ja17]

Hey Tom,

If you have any threaded rod left, you'll need it to make a tool to compress your cross spring if you ever need to remove it! It worked for me. 

Joe

[Tomnistuff]

Hi Joe,

The cross spring compressor that you made is what inspired me to make all these other pullers, pushers, and compressors - that and the threaded rods for the front lower control arm and spring removal.  I don`t remember where I saw that one but it works great as well.  If it didn't require drilling a hole in the center of the cross spring outboard seat, I would use a threaded rod in tension to replace the cross spring and keep the left and right axles straight for rear end removal.
So far, with the help of Archimedes, a vehicle four-post hoist, an engine hoist. the Technical Manual, the search function and a few threaded rods, I've been able to do all the work on the car without help.

Tom Kizer
 

[Tomnistuff]

I modified the post about the bearing puller (reply #3) to recommend a thicker material for the two straight strips that are in contact with the bearing.  Mine was so tight that the two strips took a permanent set (a slight bow) after pulling the bearing.
Tom Kizer

[ja17]

I have three tool chests with drawers full of special factory tools and home made tools I made over the years. Time saved on jobs is well worth the time spent making the tool to make the job  faster and easier.  In my case I get to use them over and over.

Joe Alexander (ja17)
Blacklick, Ohio