Official Mercedes Hood Torque Rod Holder

[ctaylor738]

A friend was kind enough to lend me one for my hood install.

[w113dude]

Chuck,

I have to ask, what are we looking at?

[enochbell]

Thanks Chuck, I was sure there was a special tool for this.  In the several times I have removed and replaced my hood I have rigged an improvised strap to keep the torsion bar.  Lucky for me I have never had a mishap, but that spring can do some serious damage if it snaps against the hood.
g

[rutger kohler]

Hi, very cunning, I might make one, I bent up an S hook out of 3/16" stainless rod but this look more secure.

[ctaylor738]

A couple of members asked me for some more information about this little device.  I'll digress a bit and describe the torque rod and its installation.

First, the torque rod is a fancy torsion device that is under tension when the hood is closed, and it allows the hood to "pop" open when the release lever is pulled.  Then, as the hood is raised, it uncoils.  With the hood completely raised, the rod is almost completely de-tensioned and holds the hood open.

Referring to the first picture.  You install the rod by inserting end A through the two openings in the left side of the hood.  Place then innner holding plate over the rod.  Pull the rod through the holes until end A almost reaches the hole on the right side.  Maneuver end A into the hole with the end of the rod toward the front of the hood, push it fully into the hole and install the securing plate.  Then slide the second left-side plate over end C and fasten the two plates, thus securing end B.

Grasp end C firmly and wind it counterclockwise until the rod is parallel with the edge of the hood and secure it with your device of choice by placing one end over the rod and the other in the hole provided just for that purpose, as shown in my earlier post.  You can now install the hood on the car, release the rod, and allow end C to unwind and end up in the little holder on the bracket on the inner fender. 

If you are removing the hood, you first wind the rod up and secure it.

The other two pictures show the factory tool used to hold the rod and also the S-hook from Home Despot that I used until I got the official tool on loan.

NOTE - if you encounter a hood that will not stay up, it is probably because end A was inserted facing the rear of the hood.  This means that the rod is not wound enough to provide the needed tension.  AND, end A is pushing against the top of the hood instead of the bottom where it is reinforced.  Very bad situation.

[watson2]

Hi guys, Hi Chuck .
First of all a very Merry Christmas to you all and a Blessed New Year.

The day before Christmas is not properly the day in which I expect replies,
so I begin posting this lines and then,  when the time comes, if you want to respond, I will read your opinions and your teachings.

I read this topic  http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=13919.0 of Michael Romeo and Chuck's one here above.

My situation is the one you can see on this picture. The shape of my new torsion bar (coming from Mercedes Benz Classic) is similar to the
 one of Chuck: the angle between right and left ends is about 100 degrees.

In the case of Romeo he let us undestand that the bar has been twisted for a great angle, with muscles. Probably his torsion bar is different from mine or the one of Chuck.
My bar , on the contrary , when it will be fitted in place, I imagine that will perhaps have enough tension to lift the closed hood, but certainly when the hood will be open the tension will be completely exhausted.

If I had to look for more tension, my bar should be twisted for 450 degrees, starting from the rest position and arriving  to the 'next   closed hood position'. And this is not possible
for sure , even with the biggest muscles you want.

To finish the torsion bar panorama, the bar currently installed on my car has an angle of about 190 degrees between the two ends. The effort to put it in position is reasonable
and it retains a remarkable tension even in the open position.

So the question to Chuck and to you all is : are 100 degrees counterclockwise enough ?
Merry Christmas again.

[watson2]

This is the current bar on my hood, that I'd like to change. The force applied on the right side has been able to detach the framework of the hood on the right side of about 8-10 mm.
On the left side ,infact, the framework is adherent to the hood internal surface.
This has been done only with a rotation of 240 to 250 degrees to reach the 'closed hood position'.  I'm  convinced that the proper tension is the one that can be obtained with a torsion of 100 degrees  on the new bar that I have now and that Chuck showed us. Or not?

[WRe]

Hi,
see here: http://www.pagodentreff.de/diskussionsforum/t5764-drehstab.html.
...WRe

[watson2]

Thank you a lot ,  WRe. A new bar and a new angle...

But my problem is not the way in which to assemble the pieces, but how much to twist the bar.
Thank you again.

[WRe]

Hi,
I would guess ~ 180 degrees from the point you enter it in the hood to the point you fix it with a hook to mount the hood.
...WRe

[watson2]

Hi,
I would guess ~ 180 degrees from the point you enter it in the hood to the point you fix it with a hook to mount the hood.
...WRe

Excuse me, WRe , but this is not true in the case of my bar or the one shown by Chuck.
It can be true in the case of the bar seen in Pagodentreff , because it has a difference of 180°
in comparison with our ones , when the bar is in rest position (passively  resting on a surface).
The one of Pagodentreff is similar to the one currently installed on my car (see here the attached image).

[tel76]

Hello Flavio,
Is it your intention to fit the bar the way you have it mounted in your picture if so then you would damage your bonnet/hood (outside/top surface).
Rotate the bar 180 degrees clockwise (as in your picture) and insert the top portion into the bonnet with the leg forward, that way the bar will contact the bonnet in the correct position and will not damage the face side of the bonnet/hood, make sure you insulate the lower rod from the bonnet/hood so that you do not damage the paintwork as you rotate it, fit the  plastic supports. You then rotate the lower part of the rod (as in your picture) ante clockwise until you can fit your securing S clip.

[watson2]

Hi Eric. Thank you.
Perhaps here we are misunderstanding.  May be my previous messages were not clear.

So : the black hood is not mine. It comes from a picture of Pagodentreff.
My bonnet is the white one.
My bar is the one lying on a floor with brown tiles
My new bar is identical to the one shown by ctaylor738 (the model currently distributed by MB for W113)

I know that the bar must be inserted with the right leg forward.

I read the post of Ctaylor and it's crystal clear.
I read when, speaking about the bar, he says :" Then, as the hood is raised, it uncoils.  With the hood completely raised, the rod is almost completely de-tensioned and holds the hood open".

So my only question is : using my new bar or the one of Chuck, are 90° of torsion enough to maintain the bonnet in open position?
Reading the messages of Ctaylor the answer seems to be "Yes" , but I'd like to hear some confirmation by Chuck or anyone else is
using a bar like ours.

[Marshalll Smith]

I purchased a new torsion bar from an aftermarket vendor. When installed, it does not have enough tension to hold the hood us. I looking at the pictures of the torsion bar on this, I notice that the bend on some of these bars are the opposite the bend on mine. The picture of the bar on the tile floor is the same as mine and looks to have an incorrect bend. Am I correct on this subject?

Marshall
65 250SL 

[Tyler S]

Marshall, See Chucks "Note" on post 5 about the end of the rod on the passenger side being installed up side down. This is most likely your problem. The plastic detent block on the fender well can also be worn. You can temporarily repair this by unscrewing it and rotating it 180 degrees and re-fasten.  Also, the rods in the above post pics with the exception of the one on "tile floor" are used. Which is why they look like the end arch is bent the wrong way. 50 years of tension has distorted them. New ones look the way yours does.

Also I see you have just registered to the group, Would like to say welcome There are quite a few other members here in the San Diego area. There is a topic where new members can post and introduce themselves and their cars.
When you have the time, head on over to this link;
http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=529.0

Tyler

[Marshalll Smith]

Hey Tyler, what a perfect explanation of my situation. I just couldn't imagine turning the torsion bar 360 degrees as it seems like it would be create incredible force on the hood.  I also couldn't understand the differences in the bends of the bars in the pictures but you certainly explained that was the difference between the old bar and the new. Thank you so kindly for your information. Now on to my secobd question.

 I just installed a push button primer on my 67 250 SL. It just would not start when warm. I had been told by a Mercedes parts house that 3 out of 10 cars needed this primer. I paid very big money for the optional timed relay and installed it but it did not help. It just did not prime the engine for more than perhaps a third of a second. Can you explain what this problem is on some of these cars and how it's fixed without running a separate manual primer button? Thanks again Tyler!!
Marshall Smith

[Tyler S]

Marshall, use the search function and search for "warm start issue". There are several current threads being discussed with lots of info. You can post your question on one of those or start a new topic. keeps this peticular topic related to hood rods and allows others to find it via search.
Here is one such thread about hot start issues.
http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=23978.0

[Rick]

A note related to the Hood Tension Rod.  DO NOT send this rod in for cad or zinc plating.  The process of plating causes it to become over twisted and it will no longer work!  How do I know?  I did it and a shop I know also did it with the same results.

[Benz Dr.]

When installed correctly, and before it's pulled into and fixed in position ready for mounting, the end of the rod will point towards the top of the hod. You will need to twist the end of the rod about 270 degrees before you can hook it on to a S-hook or similar safety catch.

[mbazinet]

Do we have a MB Part #   or alternate vendor that this can be purchased from ?   I would like to get one to have on hand when I remove the hood. 

Thanks !

[Jmich]

Hello,

I am replacing the hood bar holder but it seems that I have the same problem as Flavio (Watson)... and I don't understand how to set it, Can you help ?

As you can see in my picture, from the rest position, I have only to twist the bar of +/- 90° (the end of the rod points to the bottom of the hod), so it does not have enough tension to raise the hood !!?? And if I want more force I would have to twist it of 450°: impossibe !

(the other side of the bar is well fitted in direction of the front of the hood (inside) like the old bar shows).

Any idea ?
Thanks !

[hkollan]

And if I want more force I would have to twist it of 450°: impossibe !

Hi,

This operation requires some bravery and determination.
You have positioned the rod correctly. So in order to "safely"  rotate it the necessary 450° I use a pair of thick gloves, while a helper to hold the hood down while you apply some sufficient (brutal) force and it should come around.
When in the right position it will generate enough force to keep the hood up.
Make sure you have a solid S-hook available to keep the rod in place while handling and installing the hood.
Needless to say, whatever you do while rotating the rod make sure it doesn't slip....


Hans

[Jmich]

Thanks  Hans for your answer.

I can be brave and determinated  but I am astonished that I have to twist it more than 360° !!
I will try and keep you posted !

Regards,

[Rick]

Do not over twist!   These rods have tendency, under some circumstances, to twist themselves into a new position.   You can't fix it if this happens. You must replace it.   I have seen those that are sent in for cad or zinc plating do this often.  Do not try to twist it 360 degrees as you will damage your hood

[hkollan]

Not sure what solution Rick is proposing, other than possibly avoiding
plating the rod, as this process might weaken its properties.
Using your picture as
an illustration, you will have to push the rod counterclockwise. That will then force the tip of the rod that is inserted into the reenforcing frame of the hood counterclockwise/upwards. As it will not be forced against the "outside" the hood only against the "inside" frame section you should be fine.

I'd love to hear of a smoother less violent way of doing this, but really can't see how
that would be possible. The 3-4 times I've done this has turned out well, but its a nervewrecking excercise every time.

Hans