280SL restoration gone wrong . Strut vs Wheelhouse .. what do I need?

[alabbasi]

All, I've had my 71 280SL for a few years and in 2011, I sent it in for restoration to a shop that came highly recommended. We came to an agreement that I would write him a cheque every month and he would work on it. The project stalled after a short while and the shop owner informed me that he was at a stopping point until he found a front end. I continued to write cheques hoping that it would cover the cost of purchasing one. About 8 months down, I found a complete shell with a good front end and bought it and gave it to him.

He grafted on the front end and at this point, I asked him to show me where we were financially. Unfortunately even though I was paying him for many months without any activity taking place on the car, the shop owner elected to hit me with a huge bill on top of what I had already paid him.  In total, I paid him $15000 in total to get the car back and gave it to another shop, who has been slowly undoing all of his work which was sub standard (1 inch of bondo in areas, lots of covering up of rust) and paint right over rust.

They'd replaced much of what  he has covered up with new metal and have been slowly working from the back to the front of the car. Today, I got a call from the people who are working on my car to come over and take a look at it. They've pretty much finished with everything on the shell except for the front, the inner wheelhouse did not look right so they pulled the front fender off this is what they found...










This is what they found under a fender that was grafted on by a so called restoration shop who charged $15000. This is a shop that took a front end off and replaced it without addressing this rust underneath.

I don't usually complain when deals go bad and have kept quite for 6 months while I have had to spend on undoing a lot of work that seemed incompetent. I have to say something in this case but it's criminal. For anyone reading this in N Texas, please contact me before selecting a restorer and save yourself a lot of aggro.

RANT over, here's my question.

I'm looking to replace these parts on EPC, I see the following parts:

1136260183 = Reinforcement Strut This is the frame rail that has all the strength
136260775 = Wheelhouse

On the body, the Wheelhouse and the reinforcing strut are one piece and I'm wondering if the reinforcement strut listed as part # 1136260183

[Cees Klumper]

Sorry to hear about your misfortune. Seems like somehow the customer is always at a disadvantage in these situations. Hopefully, all will be forgotten soon after the car emerges in its former glory and you can start enjoying it. Hang in there, another one saved!

[Flyair]

I echo Cees's words of encouragement.

For parts have a look in our Technical Manual a thttp://www.sl113.org/wiki/Suppliers/Warsaw.
If preferred, in the US you can get it also through thttp://www.mercedesrestorationparts.com/100073.html

[stickandrudderman]

That longeron is a regular failure point and I have seen many, many "restorations" where new wings (fenders) have been fitted over rotten longerons. In fact, it's the very first thing I check when being presented with a car to examine. You simply put your hand up inside the arch above the front wheel and feel along the top of this longeron. 8 out of 10 cars have holes in them at this point.
I had one customer to presented a car to me for a pre purchase inspection that the seller had spent £15000 "restoring". The first thing i spotted was these failed longerons and my customer went ahead and bought the car anyway!

[w113dude]

it'll be a shame to spend all that time and money for new inner fender, the damage is not that bad, your body shop can easily restore this with new sheet metal bring it back to look like new and put it all back together in no time, after it's been cut, welded, and primed you'll never see the repaired section. complete removal is way too costly in parts and labor.

[Benz Dr.]

I agree that this is a common area where these cars rust. I have seen cars that were fully restored, including new front fenders and inner fenders, yet somehow, the reinforcements were missing. I've seen this on 190SL's as well, where the upper reinforcment for the nose pannel was missing. Either case seriously weakens the structural soundness of the car.

 I wouldn't remove the inner fender unless it was seriously rusty. I think you would be wise in removing the reinforcement/s and having new ones welded on. They're about $200.00 a side which isn't too bad. I think you will find that there will be a lot of rust inside the box sections that you can't see. 

[alabbasi]

Thank you gentlemen,

I did speak to my body man and he said that while he can fix the wheelhouse. However, he would rather replace it if it included the re-enforcement strut. The price difference between the two parts is only a couple of hundred bucks and if the reinforcement struts are part of the wheelhouse, we'll get a much better repair.

If they're not, then he said that I should buy only the reinforcement struts.

If someone has already bought these parts, I'd be grateful for your input.

[star63]

Sorry to hear about your bad experience.
That area in my car looked as bad if not even worse.

I wanted to make sure that I never have to do this again. After welding the inner fender and the reinforcement piece together (+ all the brackets) I had the whole thing dipped in hot zinc.
It should last for another 46 years now...

[ctaylor738]

There is a third part (5) in the EPC 113 620 09 61 (and 08 61) that looks to include the strut, wheelhouse and the piece where the bumper mounts attach.  Probably costs a small fortune, but looks like it would save a lot of welding.

[mbzse]

.../... After welding the inner fender and the reinforcement piece together (+ all the brackets) I had the whole thing dipped in hot zink.

What is the procedure for (spot-)welding a zink treated bodypart onto the car? Just curious.   I do know the zink fumes are poisonous, inhaling them should be avoided.
/Hans in Sweden

.

[Benz Dr.]

The reinforcement is a seperate part from the inner fender although the inner fender does include the shock mount bracket if I remember correctly. I wouldn't remove the inner fender unless it's really needed.

[alabbasi]

The reinforcement is a separate part from the inner fender although the inner fender does include the shock mount bracket if I remember correctly. I wouldn't remove the inner fender unless it's really needed.

Thanks, I assumed so when I saw Star's pictures. that the wheel well and the rail are two separate pieces. I appreciate you confirming this.

I'll order order them both from the dealer.

I'm now looking forward to seeing what the other side looks like.

With best regards

Al

[ja17]

Hello Hans,

I do a lot of welding on zinc coated metals.  Slightly grinding the zinc coat around the spot to be welded will help. When using a MIG welder, use a shield gas and not a flux welding wire if possible, since the flux is corrosive.  Using a little ventilation and a full welding mask, should keep all the harmful vapors away. In any case a good rust primer than top coat of paint is required after cleaning all weld areas.  Most aftermarket repair panels are zinc coated these days and will last much longer than just plain steel. Original body panels are plain steel and must be thoroughly cleaned primed and painted after welding or they will quickly rust.

[dseretakis]

When spot or plug welding two surfaces I like to use a weld thru primer which doesn't burn away when welded. This helps protect the mating surfaces from rust.

[alabbasi]

Gentlemen

Thank you, I ordered the struts and the wheel house sections for both sides after speaking to the dealer. Hopefully they'll be in by the end of the week.
There may be daylight at the end of this tunnel.

Thanks

Al