Pedal doesn't contact kick down switch?

[alaska230sl]

First time poster, hello all, very happy to have stumbled across this site!  I am 'refreshing' a '67 230SL Auto, and, among other things, have discovered the throttle linkage keeps the foot pedal from contacting the kick down switch by about 1 1/2 inch.  I CAN engage the switch if i exert what I think is way too much pressure....I'm then forcing the linkage to bend.  This can't be right....I find information in the MB workshop manual in sections 27-4/7 and 30-3/1, but that doesn't really get me where I need to be.  I'm in the middle of Alaska, so there isn't another car or owner I can reference.   I'm missing something....like grey matter, but that's another topic.  Any advice or directions would be great.  As I muddle along with this car, I'm finding just about everything is in disrepair...brittle, broken, out of adjustment, no numbers on the block....it just won't stop....Thanks, Steve.

[280SE Guy]

First thing that comes to mind but might not be correct is maybe your motor mounts and transmission mounts are bad resulting in the whole engine/transmission assembly getting tilted rearward screwing up the geometry between your foot and the kick down switch.  ? ? ?

I'm sure you will get other responses.

Regards

[wwheeler]

Great to have you on board!

The mounts are a possibility but I would start with the linkage tour in the tech manual. Most people with linkage problems find that the very complex linkage system is out of adjustment. If the basic linkage isn't set up correctly, all other adjustments are a waste of time.

Others correct me if I am wrong, but the trans kick down switch body is what should stop the travel of the accelerator pedal. At that point, the injection pump lever should be on its stop and the air horn lever should be just slightly (1mm) off its stop. If it is not like this, adjustment is needed.

As the pedal travels down, it engages the trans kick down switch and finally comes to rest on the switch body.

[ja17]

Yes, review the linkage tour. Check to see what the position of the intake throttle valve is when your pedal is at the floor and let us know.

Keep us up to date.

[alaska230sl]

Thank you gentlemen...measurements on the injector pump and the throttle valve apppear to be in order.  Most of the front steering and suspension components were replaced about 15K miles ago.  BUT I discovered an article on this site that may answer the question:  It's from the Pagoda newsletter, Vol. 1, Issue 5...Touring with Joe, that addresses my issue.  It may be the problem.  I believe the motor in the car is not the original one.  The block has NO stampings or data plate, research indicates that this may be a dealer replacement block?  Appears this car has been messed with by numerous people that didn't know what they were doing and didn't care....I don't know what I'm doing, but I DO care. I had the head gasket replaced last summer and had a very competent head rebuilder tell me to NOT put another dime into the head.  Pitted badly, extremely worn valve train components, spalling of the cam etc.  And I've been told my injector punp is in bad conditon.  (what do I know...) Anyhow, I have the opportunity to purchase a used motor, about 70K miles, was in very good order 9-10 years ago.  $2700 with a 4-speed trans. and has been in warm dry storage since; seller appers reputable.  Any thoughts on the advisability of this?  Thanks much, Steve.

[Paul & Dolly]

Hi Steve,

I can't help you, but just to say welcome...

We watch "ice road truckers" over here in UK, and you must live in a really exceptional part of the world.

Good luck and enjoy your Pagoda

Paul

[Cees Klumper]

The fact that your car appears to have a replacement engine should not affect the throttle linkage set-up. The dimensions etc will be exactly the same. The head being at the end of its useful life is of course not good news, but so long as it's running good you maybe should reconsider the purchase of another one. The current one might be good for another 20 thousand or so miles and if you drive the car like most of us, that could carry you for a couple of years, while you focus your energy (and budget) on other things like the kickdown switch issue. The potential other engine sounds a bit expensive if it has jot run for so long and you can't see it operate. Where does this estimate of 70K miles come from, how verifiable is it. I have 'collected' over 10 engines like this, sitting idle in people's garages, for usually under $800. Anyway, that's my 2 cents. Welcome to the site and keep us posted (and remember, no pics it didn't happen ;-))