Author Topic: Kick Panel Screw Removal  (Read 5446 times)

Harry

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Kick Panel Screw Removal
« on: March 22, 2013, 16:18:20 »
It's surprising that I would be asking this question but I am finding removal of several small screws is presenting a remarkably unpleasant experience.  The screws in question are those that affix the aluminum trim pieces on either side of the tread along the threshold under the door, and the similar screws that secure the upper portion of the body panel (kick-panel) along the underside of the body (beneath the door tread).  I'm trying to remove that panel to access some rust that is apparent behind it.  These are very small phillps head screws and they are TIGHT as dammit!  I have an impact wrench (the type that tightens or loosens the screw very slightly when it is hit with a hammer) but that has only been marginally sucessful.  The screws seem to be in good condition (no corrosion to the head), probably because they are stainless.  I have burned up 2 new coated drill bits and managed to get 1 or 2 bad ones out, and some have actually unscrewed normally.
I'm considering heating them up to see if that helps.  Once you strip the relief for the phillips head screw-driver, life gets very difficult.  Has anyone got any tricks or secrets out there?  (Unbelievable.)

Thanks,
Harry
Harry Bailey
Knoxville, TN
1966 230SL
Automatic

w113dude

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Re: Kick Panel Screw Removal
« Reply #1 on: March 23, 2013, 01:10:41 »
Spray PB blaster on the screws a couple of times leave it over night then try again.

pagoden

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Re: Kick Panel Screw Removal
« Reply #2 on: March 23, 2013, 02:16:35 »
 
Try getting it to budge first in the direction of tightness, just a little.  You're in a tough area here, so I'm sure this won't do it all for you, but I routinely tighten first.  Usually, a fastener that's been in place for decades will budge a bit -- say a sixteenth or an eighth of a turn.  This way you're asking for initial movement in a direction that eliminates fighting the accumulation of crud (including rust, of course) on the exposed threads.  Your impact driver works in this direction as well; whether you use it or not, stick to moderate force for this, at least at first, as clockwise movement is usually easier to get, and of course you don't want to twist it off.  Any little movement is key; it will at the least facilitate penetration of the Blaster juice.  It's no panacea but can give an edge in a tough struggle; good luck with yours.   
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ja17

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Re: Kick Panel Screw Removal
« Reply #3 on: March 24, 2013, 03:42:47 »
Hello Harry,

Use the right screw driver or bit and make sure it is good quality also. Plant the screw driver straight on, and smack it with a hammer. Next try removal.  The impact will jar the corrosion loose on the threads and it should come out.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
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Harry

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Re: Kick Panel Screw Removal
« Reply #4 on: March 24, 2013, 12:08:07 »
Thanks very much.  I'll try the PBS Blaster.  I've always used WD40.  I was also thinking of heating up the area with a heat gun.
Harry Bailey
Knoxville, TN
1966 230SL
Automatic

Harry

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Re: Kick Panel Screw Removal
« Reply #5 on: March 27, 2013, 16:26:06 »
No luck.  Very aggravating.  I guess I'll just have to keep on keeping on.  These boogers are in there to stay?  Interstingly, I was able to loosen one about a quarter turn but it would come no more!  Really amazing.  Repairing the rust should be easy by comparison!:)
Harry Bailey
Knoxville, TN
1966 230SL
Automatic

star63

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Re: Kick Panel Screw Removal
« Reply #6 on: March 27, 2013, 19:40:54 »
I had a similar problem.
I cut the screws first with a small grinder to get the trim piece out of the way.Then welded a small washer to the screw end.
The heat loosened the screw up and it was fairly easy to turn it open with pliers.
If necessary, you can also weld a nut to the washer and use a wrench.
I removed half a dozen tiny screws this way  :)
Petri
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Bonnyboy

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Re: Kick Panel Screw Removal
« Reply #7 on: March 27, 2013, 21:16:53 »
After several days with penetrating oil and a little heat from a soldering iron my screws would not come out even with an impact driver - the head rounded out and crew removers wouldn't work either.  so I drilled the heads until I could get the trim piece off then there was enough meat to put some vice grips on and twist.  I snapped a couple more and some came out.  The ones I snapped I ground down, center punched and drilled them out - went through several drill bits and finally got them out.  The holes are now too big so I used a bit of plastic zap strap to give the new screws some bite. 
Ian
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Harry

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Re: Kick Panel Screw Removal
« Reply #8 on: March 28, 2013, 00:42:31 »
Is that not ridiculous?!!!  I finally got the panel off after grinding, heating, cussing, etc.  thanks for your help.
Harry Bailey
Knoxville, TN
1966 230SL
Automatic

Harry

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Re: Kick Panel Screw Removal
« Reply #9 on: May 06, 2013, 11:17:06 »
For those also encountering this problem, the best method I found was to grind a slot in the head of the screw wih a Dremel, and use a flat bladed screwdriver.  This was far more successful than trying to remove using the phillips head configuration.  Even then, I had to grind the head away on a very few to remove them.  Quite a job!
Harry Bailey
Knoxville, TN
1966 230SL
Automatic