Author Topic: Restoration Difficulty Level (Read 947716 times)

andyburns · « **Reply #125 on:** August 16, 2013, 01:17:25 »

GGR, intersted to know how the nut came loose. Both the early version that I have came with a lock tab where the the top nut screws down hard on the lock tab which is then bent on two sides of the nut to prevent it from moving. I am interested to know if your setup had that tab or if it failed.

I aggree with you on the length of the drag link now that I think about. The difference in mine is probably because the 108 link is bent through some sort of damage. The only reason I am running with this is that I was told that the drag link was different from the W108 to the 113 and that the ball joint would not fit correctly into theW108 pitman arm. I now believe this is not the case after trying both arms on both drag links. I believe you are correct that the drag link part number is the same accross all models. Did you look that up in EPC?

GGR · « **Reply #126 on:** August 16, 2013, 01:44:20 »

Yes. I looked on EPC. I first looked at the p/n on the 230SL and then used the search tool with that p/n which gave me all the chassis on which the same drag link is being used.

My nut does not have that locking system. I should look into fitting one.

andyburns · « **Reply #127 on:** August 16, 2013, 02:02:54 »

GGR, If you want the factory lock tab I can send it over to you. I have two of them. No problems at all.

GGR · « **Reply #128 on:** August 16, 2013, 02:35:18 »

Thanks. This can't be an expensive item from the classic center. Won't be worth postage from NZ. I will follow up with you in case it is no longer available.

Thanks again

rutger kohler · « **Reply #129 on:** August 16, 2013, 07:03:01 »

Hi Andy, I am with you, bending the part and normalising will take you back to spot on suspension geometry according to your measurements. i would not shorten the design thread takeup from 20mm to 10mm to correct in any circumstance.

andyburns · « **Reply #130 on:** August 16, 2013, 07:11:22 »

Rodger, its being bent as we speak. Have done all the calcs today and the only downside is that it will effectively shorten the arm by around 1.4mm which shouldn't effect things too much. Will post photos of the process. Barry is going to take photos as it comes out of the oven and in the hydraulic press.

GGR · « **Reply #131 on:** August 16, 2013, 10:58:57 »

You may consider bending both the arms of 5 mm each so that length difference will be less, and most importantly, they will still both be of the same length compared to each other.

andyburns · « **Reply #132 on:** August 16, 2013, 18:20:26 »

GGR, we did talk about that. I think its a good idea but would be twice the effort and cost. Given the distance we are shortening the rod is so small I am hoping we will get away with it.. I also want to keep everything at the factory height above the ground if possible. I will run this past Barry again on Monday and see if he would do both arms for the same price as a favor. Thanks for the suggestion.

GGR · « **Reply #133 on:** August 16, 2013, 19:32:03 »

Lowest point is the front of the oil pan and the bottom of the axle carrier. The drag link is behind and higher, so you won't have any ground clearance issue if it is 10 mm lower.

andyburns · « **Reply #134 on:** August 16, 2013, 20:06:08 »

Not worried about ground clearance more the clearance with the bracket that protrudes out into the wheel arch which the steering damper bolts up to. I want to keep the drag link as high above this as possible to avoid any issues. I am probably worrying about nothing. Half my problem is the without the sub frame in the car its hard to visualize or predict problem. I am picking up the powder coated parts for the sub frame this week so may wait until thats in before going any further. Problem being is I am incredibly impatient and desperately want to move the project along so I can use it this summer. Doesn't look as if I will make it. So much stuff to sort out.

andyburns · « **Reply #135 on:** August 17, 2013, 07:52:08 »

Found this photo on the internet of a correct 113 pitman arm. You can see the additional angle cranking the arm further up in the air. This is what I will try and reproduce by bending the 108 arm. Fingers crossed it works out.

andyburns · « **Reply #136 on:** August 18, 2013, 05:56:24 »

Guys, am wondering if someone can assist. I am trying to break down the steering shaft so I can get the lower shaft out for shortening. I have hit a bit of a brick wall trying to withdraw the entire shaft complete with center bearings. This bearing seems to have caught up on the lip of the small side tube which accommodates the steering locking barrel. I am sure the solution is simple. I did a bit of a search in here and also on the internet but dew a blank. If anyone has done this before or knows where to get some instructions on the breakdown sequence I would be most appreciative.

drmb · « **Reply #137 on:** August 18, 2013, 08:19:38 »

Andy I haven't caught up with this thread for about a week and I am alarmed that you are going to have the pitman arm heated and bent,also the steering shaft cut and welded.
Do you know in the New Zealand warrant of fitness regulations regulation 9.1 says that no part of the steering system is to be heated or welded after original manufacture.
If you go ahead with this and in years to come there is a problem who's head goes on the block ?
Lloyd.

andyburns · « **Reply #138 on:** August 18, 2013, 09:03:41 »

Hi Lloyd, thanks for the warning. I have looked into this and discussed it with Barry from South Auckland Forgings. As long as the modification are done by an expert and certified it is ok. The only guidance the LTSA give is that all steering modifications require low volume certification and should only be undertaken by an expert. http://www.nzta.govt.nz/vehicle/warrants-certifications/modifying.html or http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents.html#code

Given Barry is an industry leader and one of the lead metallurgists in New Zealand I am certain I am in SAFE hands (excuse the punn Barry). I think I am certainly a million times better off than your backyard boffin armed with a hacksaw and limited welding capabilities which I am totally against. As you have kindly pointed out it could be someone close to any off us that is killed by a totally shonky shaft cut and weld job when this sort of modification fails.

Quite coincidentally one of my other good friends is also an independent low volume certifier up here in Auckland

If anything he is harder on me that his other clients.

Will continue to post my progress in here hopefully as an example of how to do this job properly. If you have any arms I don't have to bend that your willing to sell let me know.

Andy

Valvechatter · « **Reply #139 on:** August 18, 2013, 11:44:44 »

Andy,
Perhaps you could ask Barry a question for me. I will take his opinion as authoritative on this matter. The question is: may coil springs be powder coated without adversely effecting the tempering of the springs? Lots of folks do it, but others have warned against it. Powder coating takes the spring to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. I am motivated to know as I recently had my front springs from my Jaguar powder coated, but now I fear that I should not use them.

Thanks.

Lin

mdsalemi · « **Reply #140 on:** August 18, 2013, 16:17:09 »

Eaton Detroit Springs claims that powder coat oven temp must be held to 350F otherwise you'll lose the spring annealing. Best to read up on the spring steel process.

andyburns · « **Reply #141 on:** August 18, 2013, 18:39:41 »

Guys I asked Barry this about two weeks ago. He categorically states that powder coating temp will have no effect. 400 degrees is very hot and the powder coating process wont come near this. This was also backed up by the guy who is currently doing my springs. His ovens go to a max of 270. Perhaps it depends on the product they are applying. Yes if you heat your springs to over 400 you will get into trouble. If you are really worried you could find a powder coating outfit that uses UV ovens which is the latest technology in that industry. Tim from Procoat, Www.procoat.co.nz. he has done thousands for both road going and competition car. You would assume if it were having adverse effects that he would quickly be receiving negative feedback from his customers and cease the practise.

Have a read of this article which is exactly what Barry is also saying. As long as you dont EXCEED 400 your fine. http://www.techlinecoatings.com/articles/Coating_Valve_Springs_Article.htm

andyburns · « **Reply #142 on:** August 18, 2013, 19:49:43 »

Lin, I had my 280se springs powder coated two years ago and they are perfectly fine. The only thing I did notice when my subframe went back in was that the car sat to high. After a bit of use it sank back to its normal ride height. I put this down to the brand new bilstiens in combination with everything needing to bed down. In any event this is the exact opposite of what all the scaremongering is suggesting. If you weakened your springs you would expect it to sag. I wouldn't hesitate to put your springs in. Worst case you take them out again which is only a couple of hours of your time. You have spent the money on having them done so I would bang them in and see how you get on. Another option is to take them to a spring shop and get them tested against the manufactures specs. This should be definitive. Might cost you 10 dollars for a bit of piece of mind.

andyburns · « **Reply #143 on:** August 19, 2013, 07:15:46 »

Just got my first major load back from the powder coaters today. Really happy with the result. Dropped off a mother load of stuff to the electroplaters as well after spending 4 hours on my feet in front of a bead blasting cabinet.

rutger kohler · « **Reply #144 on:** August 19, 2013, 07:48:05 »

Hi Andy, i did look at both of my workshop manuals, with regard to pulling the steering column apart but unfortunately neither of them goes into any more details than you have at present.

Valvechatter · « **Reply #145 on:** August 19, 2013, 21:32:25 »

Thanks, Andy. I guess I will give them a try, but it is more than a couple of hours to change out the springs on the Jag. Hopefully, the nice and shiny originals will work satisfactorily.

Lin

andyburns · « **Reply #146 on:** August 21, 2013, 19:32:11 »

Love the part of the project where everything gets 'shiny'. These are just the nuts and bolts in the sub frame. Quite incredible how much hardware hold just this together.

andyburns · « **Reply #147 on:** August 21, 2013, 21:51:29 »

Carpet sample arrived from Germany. Big thanks KHM. Massive difference between the blacks which surprised me. The blacks with heavy patterns tend to have quite a shiny look to them where the finer grain leather tend to have a more subdued matt appearance. Agains the silver the matt looks beautiful. These little swatches are awesome! I really love the finer square loop carpet as well. Has a more antique look to it if that makes sense.

andyburns · « **Reply #148 on:** August 22, 2013, 02:06:56 »

Spent the last hour giving all the rubber off the front sub frame a 'tickle up'. I think I may need to replace some pieces as they have cracked and are a bit brittle. May as well slam all these issues while the thing is apart.

andyburns · « **Reply #149 on:** August 22, 2013, 04:57:50 »

Picked up the chrome grill after it had some panel work done and then chromed. Quite dissapointed with the quality. Backing chrome is peeling and a few nicks and pitting on the front top lip which is highly visible. Think this one will be going back. What do you guys think. I am mainly concearned about the peeling chrome reaching the front lip and peeling onto a surface that is highly visible.

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Author Topic: Restoration Difficulty Level (Read 947716 times)

Valvechatter

Valvechatter