Author Topic: Restoration Difficulty Level (Read 942828 times)

andyburns · « **Reply #275 on:** November 18, 2013, 18:00:30 »

Thanks Greg, I will probably do that if my repairs fail. At half price that's a good option. Have you used these and if so how good are they?

Another thing I am going to struggle with is the order in which to put back the under dash components. I am thinking

1) Wiring Loom
2) Window wiper gear
3) Defrost Vents
4) Fresh Air Vents top, central and side including fixing off 3 control cables
5) Defrost ducting (round pipes )
5) Pedal Set
6) Steering Column including ignition barrel
7) Instruments including all cables required to drive them

heater radiator core
9) Fan box
10) Air control sliders and cosmetic front plate. Connect the three cables.
11) Radio and Clock
12) Glove Compartment
13) Front Lower air ducting that bolts and clamps onto airbox. Connect up the control cable to this with the air control slider
14) All the rest of the outward dash garnish, ie chrome side air grills dash chrome etc

Just a working list. If anyone else wants to add to this I would be appreciative. I will be refining this as I go through trial and error. Also I have probably left stuff off.

Tomnistuff · « **Reply #276 on:** November 18, 2013, 19:37:23 »

I`m going to sit back and pretend that I`ve got other stuff to do first. Really, I`m going to wait for you to finish your assembly sequence and test it out before I begin the same project.

Tom Kizer

andyburns · « **Reply #277 on:** November 18, 2013, 21:59:52 »

The book I was reading talked about the photo and cited the chrome soft top bow which can just be made out on the higher def photo. They apparently where no longer fitted after April. I cant remember what the other feature they talked about but dated it no earlier than Jan 64. I will borrow the book and take some scans I think. It would be great to go back to the factory and lift all the data cards from Jan to March for right hand drive 113's. On average given only 10% of the production run were RHD that narrows it down to about 30 cars per month or about 100 for the duration of Jan to April. If I could nail this car down to 519 then I might be cooking with gas!

rgr69SL · « **Reply #278 on:** November 19, 2013, 06:26:09 »

Andy, sorry I don't know more about the ducts. I was looking at getting a set awhile back but ended up tracking down a good used set in the US. Good luck with the repair option.

stickandrudderman · « **Reply #279 on:** November 19, 2013, 11:24:10 »

The repair paste I was referring to is Isopon P40.
You never finished the tale of the Pitman arm!

andyburns · « **Reply #280 on:** November 19, 2013, 18:06:09 »

Cheers for that stick I will look into getting some. Trick is to find a supplier here in NZ.

The pitman arm tale was finished on the bottom of page 9. I ended up finding a 217 arm (rhd 113) in the UK. It took quite a lot of effort but worked out cheaper than bending. The installed arm sorted out all the issues with perfect alignment of the drag link arm and also misses by mm's the bracket that supports the gas steering shock and the subframe lateral support stay.

Just ticked it off the to do list and moved on with the next challenge.... and with these little puppies there are certainly quite a few challenges.

On the horizon I have:

1) Fix or replace the passengers door lock (anyone have a spare old unit I can buy. Just need the lock barrel)
2) Fix the wiring loom and reinstall
3) Put back together the Pedal Set
4) Install the brake and clutch lines (electroplaters has lost one of the lines)
5) Install the brake booster/master setup. (need to hand cut a rubber gasket for alloy to firewall spacer)
6) Repair and install the defrost vents
7) Put back together the rest of the air blower box

Will stop there as I will scare myself otherwise. As Dory from finding Nemo famously said 'Just keep swimming, just keep swimming'

andyburns · « **Reply #281 on:** November 20, 2013, 07:22:25 »

Chipped away today at the air vents. Brought a fiberglass repair kit and got to work. I figured that I would need to put a repair on both the inside and outside to get enough strength.

First I sanded the surface with 80 grit around where the repair was needed. This took off all the existing paint back and prepped the surface back to bare cardboard. I figured that the epoxy gel would soak into porous cardboard and form a much better bond. I think this gamble paid off and I ended up with really solid result. In fact I probably only needed to conduct the repair from one side.

Used at least 3 layers of fiberglass mat on each surface. Perhaps a bit of overkill. I have never done this before so quite a bit of guess work.

I also took the opportunity to sort out all the edges of the vent where damage had occurred and the surfaces were starting to delaminate. Just pushed the gel into the cardboard and will wait till its rock solid and sand the edges back.

I think I did cock up a bit in that I should have sanded it while it was almost dry. Like the high tech body fillers its much easier to shape when its in this state. Get in with some 80 grit and it almost crumbles off. Leave it till its rock hard and your sanding for much longer. Will see.

After I finish reshaping it I will blow some etch primer on and then pain the whole unit matte black. I think it will come up trumps.

andyburns · « **Reply #282 on:** November 20, 2013, 07:23:42 »

A few more pics of the initial glass repair.

stickandrudderman · « **Reply #283 on:** November 20, 2013, 08:47:41 »

Quote

I ended up finding a 217 arm (rhd 113) in the UK.

It was this bit that confused me. What is a "217" arm? Those numbers don't feature in the correct part number and there's no prior reference to it that I could find in your posts.

I ask so that anyone referring back to this thread in the future will not be left asking the same question.

andyburns · « **Reply #284 on:** November 20, 2013, 09:01:15 »

Stick, I am sorry I didn't explain it well enough. You had to go to an early post on page 4 or 5 to get the mercedes spec sheet I posted. It gives the part numbers and more importantly what mercedes call the ident number. This is a short three digit number which is stamped onto the bottom of the arm so a mechanic can clearly see it from underneath when on a hoist.

If you look at the following image I have included both the spec sheet and the arm I have just put on my car. You can see I now have a very very rare rhd pitman arm specifically designed for power steer.

andyburns · « **Reply #285 on:** November 20, 2013, 09:18:07 »

Stick, Just realized how they come up with the identification number. Please see the following image.

stickandrudderman · « **Reply #286 on:** November 20, 2013, 16:47:30 »

Ah, OK got it thanks. I only ever work to part numbers but at least now all future viewers of this thread will understand.

Those guys in Amersham have some rare stuff!

andyburns · « **Reply #287 on:** November 26, 2013, 06:11:02 »

Started back today on the air ducts. Wish I had sanded while the gel was semi dry. Ended up rasping away for over an hour with 80 grit to get the shape right. A bit of a trade off to get the best profile and keep the repair nice and strong. Even though I did remove quite a bit of material the repair is probably about 50 times as strong as the cardboard. I could have spent quite a bit more time making the repair undetectable but decided given its out of sight under the dash just to get it 'tidy'. Hopefully I have done it justice. Finished off the repair with 400 grit and gray scotch pad. Sanded out the entire unit with the scotch. 5 coats of mat black vinyl/plastic paint. End result acceptable!

andyburns · « **Reply #288 on:** November 26, 2013, 06:20:50 »

After a morning spent sanding and painting I picked up the latest lot from the electroplater. This batch had all the bits for the reassembly of the window wiper mechanism and the foot pedal set. Had to go back to all my photos to figure out how the pedal set was suppose to hang together. All went back smoothly. Will start on the window wiper tomorrow. The main beam was painted satin black when I pulled it out. I suppose I should make the effort and duplicate this.

I do need to source some new felt and sticky back rubber to replicate all the gaskets and padding on the air vent system. Not quite sure where I will get it from.

hkollan · « **Reply #289 on:** November 26, 2013, 08:20:02 »

That pedal set (and air ducts) look really great. I love it when someone takes great care of the cosmetics (and function) when retoring parts that will never be visible after installation. Keep up the great work!

Hans

andyburns · « **Reply #290 on:** November 26, 2013, 08:36:00 »

Thanks for your kind words Hans. I think I may be a bit anal retentive but do like to give everything a crack to look and function correctly. I would at this point of the restoration love to have enough money to just go and buy that just isn't an option which is why I contemplate repairing most of this stuff. The satisfaction level is definitely higher and I have saved myself about 400 dollars with the air vents alone. Total cost of the fiberglass repair kit and paint 35USD. Total cost of brand new air vents from Buds + postage 420US. Time to complete repair about 3 hours end to end. Quite a good hourly rate!

stickandrudderman · « **Reply #291 on:** November 26, 2013, 17:40:57 »

Shall I send you a bill?

andyburns · « **Reply #292 on:** November 26, 2013, 17:56:38 »

Very funny Stick! Tell you what if you can make it to my house by Friday night the beers are on me!!!

getsmart · « **Reply #293 on:** November 26, 2013, 21:26:02 »

Andy I totally concur in that doing as much as possible as yourself. I gain enormous satisfaction from this approach. I wish I was as far down the track as you are but I love your thread and all the priceless information you're giving me or my own restoration ! I asked my girlfriend if we can make it to Auckland on our visit in February and she was all for it !!! So don't be surprised if this Aussie lobs on you one afternoon !!!

Cheers, Joe

andyburns · « **Reply #294 on:** November 26, 2013, 22:02:41 »

Joe would be lovely to see you. Give me a bit of notice and I will make sure I am home with cold beer in hand (NZ variety of course

)

andyburns · « **Reply #295 on:** November 27, 2013, 06:49:41 »

Have spent today concentrating on seals on the air blower, felt on the air vents and other rubber gaskets on the firewall which disintegrated when I pulled stuff apart. Quite amazing when you pull stuff apart how you underestimate the small stuff. Just cutting the new brake booster gasket took half the day by the time I had driven half way across town to find the right material. It took ages to source .8mm sheet rubberized material. You would also think cutting felt would be easy but even with very good scissors I had problems. Ended up using a guillotine to get nice straight edges. Will post some pictures of the finished air vents after I glue up all the felt tomorrow.

andyburns · « **Reply #296 on:** November 28, 2013, 09:48:23 »

I couldn't resist this one when I saw it on ebay a few weeks back. Same color scheme. "Mini me". Just had to have it. Will look good sitting on the bonnet of the real maccoy when I finally finish up.

andyburns · « **Reply #297 on:** November 29, 2013, 17:04:10 »

Putting back the pedal set today and revising the diagrams I have noticed that I may be missing a rubber boot. I am hoping someone can advise me if I need it or not. The brake pedal pin that passes through the firewall and actuates the brake booster is shown in EPC as having a boot. Strange thing is when I google the part number, A 1132920097, it is shown on a few sites as being a boot for the clutch master cylinder.

Anyway it kind of makes sense to have a boot here as with out one the pin kind of flops down with gravity out of the cup in the pivot arm located in the aluminum block bolted up on the engine bay side of the firewall. If there is indeed a boot then I am picking its purpose is primarily to center the pin against this arm.

The pedal set is now back in the car so I am a bit be-loathed to haul it out again. If anyone has had experience here I would be most appreciative for any tips.

Have had two huge days on the car with the wiring loom back in and the rest of the sound dead material installed up under the dash. That was a total prick of a job that I am happy to have behind me now. Will try and post some photos in the next couple of days. Not that interesting so I didn't take to many pics.

andyburns · « **Reply #298 on:** November 30, 2013, 00:49:51 »

Some pictures of the template work for the new firewall insulation pads. I am still undecided if I will put another layer of a product called fat mat over top again. This is a new modern sound deaden material which would far out preform any of the old tar based products. I don't really like the idea of it as it has a very non original look but at the same time want a quiet car. Am interested to here from anyone who can give me some comparisons.

andyburns · « **Reply #299 on:** November 30, 2013, 00:55:40 »

Some more pics of the progress. The window wiper mech back in. Replaced the felt gasket that goes between the bar and the back of the firewall.

Also spent quite a bit of time polishing up the baker lite fuse box cover. This was really tatty when I started with layers of over spray from two or three paints jobs ago. It was also quite discolored and faded compared to the inside which had never seen the sun. So I sanded it back with 2000 grit sand paper and then used a fine paint cutting compound which brought it back to quite a new appearance. Pretty happy with the result.

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Author Topic: Restoration Difficulty Level (Read 942828 times)