dash recovering

[ptooner]

I'm girding my loins to tackle the last part of my interior, the dash.  I think I know how to get the wood parts off and the glove compartment and center radio panel.  I don't know how to remove the three top pieces or even if they should be covered in place?  My dash top is starting to split and crack but the foam is still fair.   I anticipate leaving the covering in place and putting new leather on top of it.  The reason for that is to avoid the foam falling apart.  Is that feasible or is there an easy way to get the foam parts off?  Do the lower panels come off or do I do them in place?  Is it necessary to remove the AC evaporator assembly?  I suspect all this is covered somewhere on the site but I can't seem to find it so thanks for your help.

Gerry

[garymand]

Where is everybody?  I'm a mechanic not an appolstry guy.  I have the wood off, clock working again, replacement heater switch coming, guages out & cleaned.  The wood is sanded and ready to stain and varnish.  The windshield is still inplace.

I need to uncover the dash and renew.  The interior is M-tex, sundamaged by previous owner who must have left it out way too much in the sun.  Its a 250SL with square dash front edge.  If this was mechcanical, I would know what words to search on.  I need help on how to get these dash parts off and how to go about the repair.  I recovered the seats, doors, floor, and the softtop.  But like ptooner, this dashboard is scarry. 

I pulled a windshield on a 190 once (about 40 years ago) and broke it.  So, I'm a little gun shy.  Help please.

Gary

[garymand]

I have to replace the dash covers.  I've heard I need to remove the old glue before reglueing.  What do you use to get it off? and How much of it do I need to get off?

Thanks

[66andBlue]

Hi Gary,
which one of the three Pagoda types do have?
If it is a 230SL then you can remove the MB-Tex by peeling it away very slowly. If it the glue still works then use this:
http://www.amazon.com/3M-General-Purpose-Adhesive-Cleaner/dp/B000RHZ30S
You need to find a seller who will ship it to CA since you cannot buy it here.

If you have a 280SL then you glue the new leather over the existing MB-Tex. DO NOT remove the vinyl unless you want to buy new dash pieces!
{OK, why can't you add a signature line to your posts so we know what car you have?}

[ptooner]

I'm sorry I didn't see your post sooner.  I successfully completed the dash and learned a few things.  The short version is you remove the glove box first and then work across the dash toward the left side.  You remove the clock, the radio, and the tachometer before the wood.  The wood is held in place by 5 blue nuts that are accessed from below.  You can see most of them after removing the above parts.  It's much harder to get them back on.  Shaping the leather around the complex curves is quite challenging.  Feel free to email or message me with any questions but mostly it went easier than I expected.
Gerry   
Gerry@geddings.net

[enochbell]

Looks like you figured out how to get this done, results look great.  I did mine about 14 years ago, the only tough part was the inner radius of the upper corner dash pieces, I ended up giving these to an interior restoration shop after I ruined several pieces of leather.  The shop said they had to soak the leather in order to get it to form to the piece, and it still did not come out perfectly.  Just one more example of what "hand built" really means.

Best,
g

[Peter van Es]

Also check this presentation... http://www.sl113.org/wiki/PUB/Upholstery

Peter

[garymand]

Thank you, thank you.  Not very experienced at Upholstery, can hardly spell it.  I had to replace the speedo and tack cables and my clock stopped so I had the dash open.  Found the blue nuts, and got everything off OK.  Found the hidden screws past each air vent.  Wow, scarry manipullation of M-tex.  I'm guessing I'll need to get my heatgun out to get around all the corners. 

And, WOW again.  You probably all know the pillars and instrument cover is WOOD!  The same quality as the rest of the wood trim. 
It gives renewed meaning to dashBOARD.   

I have stained the two pillars and have the glue off the cover, but it is stained from the old glue and sun heat.  I'm trying bleach to get the color back.  So here is the big question: I see no mention of these wood pieces,  mine can't be unusual, Have you seen these parts added to the wood trim?  Mosty of all, How does it look, in your opinion.

I remember seeing, I think it was, a 220 convirtable with a wood instument cover back in the 70's.  It was striking if not outstanding.  I remembering wondering why I'd never seen it on anny other MB and thinking ifit was custom made that was a lot of extra effort to bling up a dash.  Am I nuts trying to display this previously hidden wood?

[garymand]

I got the hint.  Do you know what the significant ingrediant is?  I'll stop a an upholstery shop oin the way home and see if I can bum some and some replacement foam padding.  I'm glad its not a 280, I already have the coverings off.  The foam is shot, but the square bumper is fine. 

I used  3m bug and tar remover. for the wood side pillars.  It took awhile, but did get it all off.  I'm very surprised by the extra AND hidden wood trim.  Have you seen SL's with this wood showing?  I remember an old convertable at a concourse in the early 70's with a similar instrument cover displayed.  It was striking.

The pillards cleaned up easy and are now stained awaiting varnish.  The cover has redish tan staining from the glue and sun heat.  Any ideas how to bleach the wood back to natural oak?

[garymand]

Is the wood finished in semi-gloss?

[66andBlue]

Gary,
I don't know what the ingredients are but it is nasty stuff and should only be used in a well ventilated space, best outdoors.
--
Use thin foam for the upper dash board pieces, not more than 1/8" thick. I like this stuff from Grainger.com: p/n 5GDK8  since it is self-sticking and has a reasonable temperature range. The dash can get very hot!

Yes, I have seen cars with all wood and no leather or MB-Tex covering as shown in the photo, but it is not what I would want for a 230SL/early 250SL. {Of course, early W111 coupes and convertibles do have more wood and it looks gorgeous in those cars}.
However, I believe the wood color is correct. And btw, the wood was never oak, always very thin French or English walnut veneer that was stained and then received a satin varnish.
Have fun upholstering the two corner pieces! 

[ptooner]

I also considered leaving the wood exposed but I decided I was putting too much effort and cash into this to stray that far from the original plan.  As for the top dash cover, I used goo be gone to remove the glue as well as some mineral spirits.  I then used several sheets of thin cotton batting to level the top of the dash with the rubber bumper at the front.  I attached each piece with spray adhesive and used the same spray adhesive for most of the leather attachment.  I think mbtex might be harder because it won't shape as easily I suspect.  I just soaked the leather parts in warm water for 30 minutes and then laid them over the parts with wooden clothes pins to hold them in place while they dried.  I padded the jaws of the clothes pins with small pieces of scrap leather.  The only real problem was the instrument cover.  The wet leather caused the wood hood piece to deform.  Then I had to dampen the wood and reshape it. 

Gerry

[wwheeler]

To me the exposed hidden wood on the 113 looks a little odd and doesn't flow. Compare to an early W111 dash that is attached. The pieces on the front of the dash unify the rest of the dash wood. Thats what makes it work.   

[garymand]

Thanks for the gorgeous pictures.  That is what I saw so many years ago.  The wood is just a little over the top. 

My cover is Oak under the front edge and walnut? I think, on the top.  Whats sad is the under side is little birds eyes like the edge of a burl.  Too bad its not on top.  My Mtex is tan so the colors would blend.  But I understand how the leather would be easier to shape wet and glue dry.  Will it be too obviously a cross match/unmatch if I try to do leather on the dash and mtex on the rest. 

For the wood, I'll have to see how it bleaches and takes the stain.  I'm thinking I can always give up and cover it. 

Thanks for all the coaching, much appreciated.  This is more art than mechanics.

[garymand]

Can anyone recommend how to form the M-Tex to the dash curves??     As the originals came off, theyt are highly deformed to meet the contour of the Instrument surround.  They appear to have been heated to help form them?  I can see where it would be easier to work with wet leather that using a heat gun on M-Tex.  Any help appreciated....

I got all the glue off and found the self stick foam at Grangers.  And am now taking a dep breathj before cutting aand pasteing the cover.  I had to give up on the dash wood.  I thought it would be easier to finish the wood than recover it.  The original sanding cut too deep in several places.  The window pillar frames are in very good shape and Im going ahead finishing them.