Notch on distributor body for 1967 250sl

[magicman]

 Hello - I would appreciate it if someone could post a picture of the "notch" in distirbutor body where the #1 plug should be connected to the distributor cap.  i can't find it on my 1967 250sl distributor.   The distributor is original.  thank you

[w113dude]

is it 051?try this page.
http://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/Distributor

[magicman]

Yes it is a 051. Is it the notch on the distributor shaft or the distributor body? 

[magicman]

I found the mark, still doesn't start but I'm learning along the way. Car was backed out of the garage a month ago, turned it off & it hasn't started since. Fuel doesn't seem to be an issue, so I'm concentrating on the ignition system. May try adjusting the timing next. Also will check ignition coil & condenser.

[w113dude]

Just to make sure you are right on, take the valve cover off (or you can look through oil spout ) take a look at the camshaft on the fist cylinder the two lobe should be facing up (like rabbit ears)with this and you crank markings right on you are at TDC then make sure your distributor mark is on as well.

[ja17]

Before you get too  much dis-aqssembled, remove the coil wire at the distributor and hold the bare end close to the valve cover and have someone crank the engine. You will quickly determine if you have spark.

Keep us up to date.

[magicman]

Well I finally got it started or I should say my father got it started!  I had left the car alone for 3-4 weeks & since he was visiting I thought I would test for spark from the plugs, but before I did that I had him try to start it and it sputtered for awhile but finally started & idled smoothly.  I guess father knows best because he owned the car for 37 years!  We drove the car around the block a couple times & it ran strong.  I have to admit it was kind of an emotional moment. I was pleased to know that I had correctly reconnected the spark plug wires to the distributor cap & reininstalled the cap & the new points well enough that the car would start & run smoothly.  Next step is to have the fuel system cleaned(tanks,filters etc.), brakes reworked(I believe some of the pistons are frozen) & the tie rods, inner rack & steering damper replaced by my local mechanic. I bought the front end parts & will probably buy the brake parts also & have my mechanic do the labor.  Thanks again for your assistance.

[garymand]

Nice job.  I hope my daughter does as well when she gets my 250SL. I just replaced the brake hoses and calipers.  In 50 years, 2 of the hoses swelled from the fluid to fully closed off.  Replace all four hoses.  The calipers were in bad shape too.  All are readily available.  The rebuilt calipers were cheap! $65 rears each and 75 for fronts.  Mercedes used them in many different cars.  Its a messy job but the improvement in breaking was rewarding.  Maybe Dad can help you do the fronts on a weekend.  Enjoy!

[magicman]

Thanks. The front brake hoses were replaced but I'll have to check if the rears were also. Out of curiosity, where did you purchase your calipers?

[garymand]

CARQUEST, Sacramento store.  They have access to foreign car parts though a distributor in SF.  They supply parts to comercial mechanics and the everyday chains like o'rielys and Autozone  usually have much more limited access.  I used 1990 560SEL calipers on the rear.  the rotors are the same, but I had to bend the supply lines a little for the relocated fluid line connection.  By the way, the rotors for these cars are very low cost due to the broad application.  That is probably why rebuilt calipers are available and also surprisingly low cost.