Just going through some old posts to get some further technical tip-bits
This an old post, so apologies for not starting a new one.
JA17 can you answer a query on your comment about re-torque after first warm up - after the initial tighten down of the head, do you adjust valves while still cold (or would there not be a need if the valve clearances were ok before removal) and then warm up the car at idle without the radiator cap on so there is no pressure in the cylinder head, and no doubt air pockets escaping all over the place. Then, as soon as the head is at operating temperature, shut it down and re-torque the head while its still hot. then next day when cold again, adjust the valve clearances, and drive away for 500 miles before re-torquing again?? The re-torque at 500 miles being when the engine is hot again?? that is
1. 3 stage tighten when cold (40, 60 and 80 nm)
2. warm up at idle to operating temp with no radiator cap, loosen off the head bolts, one at a time, and retighten to maximum (90nm in my case)
3. adjust valve clearances and drive for 500 trouble-free (ha ha!!) miles
4. warm up at idle to operating temp with no radiator cap again, loosen off the head bolts, one at a time, and retighten to maximum (90nm in my case)
I'm certain I did something wrong last time I did this procedure and want to be absolutely sure this time around - assuming I haven't managed to break something else along the way.
Also, to copper spray or not to copper spray, I had advice previously that new gasket, this is an Elring brand, have an inbuilt sealer that performs something similar to the permatex spray, is this true?? would you do the permatex anyway and can it simply go over the whole gasket or are there areas on the gasket that shouldn't be sprayed?
Thanks in advance
Justin