Author Topic: changing engine mounts  (Read 19156 times)

mnahon

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Re: changing engine mounts
« Reply #25 on: December 16, 2013, 01:24:34 »
Looks like the WD40 helped, as well as a longer wrench. For some reason, on my car, those bolts were on pretty tight. The rest of the job was no problem, with the help of the pointers in this forum.
Meyer Nahon
Montreal, Canada
1968 MB 280SL Auto Euro LHD Silver
2021 Tesla Model 3

ja17

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Re: changing engine mounts
« Reply #26 on: December 16, 2013, 01:25:19 »
Some times these can be stubborn. I have a 1/2" drive  19mm socket with a built in universal.  I use it with a long 1/2" extension and a breaker bar on the tough motor mount bolts. I go down through the intake manifold with the set up.  Another alternative is remove the front wheel and support the car from the chassis allowing the sub frame to hang. You will have a good shot at the bolt from through the wheel well.
Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio
1969 Dark Olive 280SL
2002 ML55 AMG (tow vehicle)
2002 SLK32 AMG (350 hp)
1982 300TD Wagon turbo 4spd.
1963 404 Mercedes Unimog (Swedish Army)
1989 flu419 Mercedes Unimog (US Army)
1998 E430
1974 450SLC Rally
1965 220SE Finback

mnahon

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Re: changing engine mounts
« Reply #27 on: December 16, 2013, 02:23:36 »
Thanks Joe. What you say is interesting about going through the intake manifold. I don't think there's any way I could have done that on my car because the exhaust header is maybe 3 inches above the bolt on the passenger side; and really directly above; not to the side at all. So there's no way I could have gotten a long extension to come down through the intake manifold. It makes me wonder whether I have a different exhaust manifold.

Through the wheelwell would have been my next try; but luckily it finally gave.
Meyer Nahon
Montreal, Canada
1968 MB 280SL Auto Euro LHD Silver
2021 Tesla Model 3