Author Topic: new paint and dashwork project (finis!) (Read 40105 times)

mmizesko · « **on:** January 16, 2014, 00:55:59 »

Hi folks,

Thought I'd share a peek at my naked 70 280SL. Sans Chrome, windshield, Tops, wood, tach, speedo, radio, glovebox and door panels. Will have it down to bare metal in a week. The paint shop owner is enthusiastic about it, which helps a lot. Joe A. and I stripped it in the paint shop which saved a ton of time. Will send updates as they occur.

Mike Mizesko
Columbus, OH

Filippo · « **Reply #1 on:** January 22, 2014, 12:58:00 »

Great project. I wan't to do the same to my car. The condition seems very similar even if difficult to state without a proper look.

Are you doing also the floors?

As said, I want to do the same and most probably will do it in December 2014. Do you know how long it will take a indicatively the cost?

In the UK I have been quoted something like GBP 7000 for a proper job. I found it maybe a bit tooo expensive. Attached some photos of my car

thanks

Filippo

mmizesko · « **Reply #2 on:** January 22, 2014, 14:55:26 »

FillipoShould take 3 months. Stripping all the lacquer off down to bare metal. then fixing all the dents and dings. The base coat and 2-3 clear coats. Should cost $7-8,000 US, +/- $1000. We are handling all the chrome, so it hopefully could be less by $1-2k, but I won't know until they have all the paint and primer off. The new windshield and rubber for doors/trunk, soft top hatch will be another $1,000. I have to decide about the leather replacement on the boot cover and the dash and the wood refinish, (another $1,000). So I guess I'm well over $10k. Didn't mention the tach and speedo refurb and radio refurb, right hand side mirror, and some side trim pieces, and new headlight door and trunk mat......

Oh Hell, I'm having an anxiety attack.

I am holding off on the carpet for now, and the door panels and pillar covers, as they look good enough for now. Maybe next year.

Mike Mizesko
Columbus, OH

jameshoward · « **Reply #3 on:** January 22, 2014, 18:24:23 »

Mike,

So you think the chrome will come in around $2K for the lot, bumpers, grille, etc?

If so, that's a pretty amazing price.

JH

mmizesko · « **Reply #4 on:** January 22, 2014, 18:30:06 »

James

No, the chrome is in great shape and in my garage. We just need to screw it back on. I do need to find some stainless screws for the side chrome though, and some new blue clips.

Mike

mmizesko · « **Reply #5 on:** January 22, 2014, 18:32:13 »

We thought the chrome and stuff we had to take off had less of a chance of getting lost if we kept them out of the body shop.....

jameshoward · « **Reply #6 on:** January 22, 2014, 18:42:02 »

I see. I'm looking at getting my rear bumpers and possibly the grille redone in Germany and the prices vary, but are all around 1200-1500 euros. That said, these are supposed to be the best guys in Germany, although even the less good ones seem to charge the same price.

My bumpers have a few dings, and the grille needs a little work, but nothing vast.

Filippo · « **Reply #7 on:** January 23, 2014, 09:53:57 »

thanks. Pricings seem very similar apart from the currecy convertions......

mmizesko · « **Reply #8 on:** January 24, 2014, 19:16:42 »

Even Nakeder!

Mike Mizesko
Columbus, OH

KevinC · « **Reply #9 on:** January 27, 2014, 20:56:46 »

These are great pics.

mmizesko · « **Reply #10 on:** January 27, 2014, 21:04:04 »

Thanks Kevin,

You ready for another project?

Mike

mmizesko · « **Reply #11 on:** January 30, 2014, 20:05:56 »

More 113 nudie pics?

not sure if people are interested in these. I'm documenting for the guys doing the work too.

Mike

Garry · « **Reply #12 on:** January 30, 2014, 21:15:46 »

Great photos Mike, Keep them coming.

Are you going to take the engine out for an engine bay respray

andyburns · « **Reply #13 on:** January 30, 2014, 21:57:56 »

I think the nudes in here are much sexier than that other grubby thread that everyone seems to be ogling at the moment

mmizesko · « **Reply #14 on:** January 31, 2014, 01:41:19 »

Garry,

I'm going to leave the bay alone for now. Back in the day, I think someone sprayed the whole bay with a varnish of some kind. Been using thinner on the intake and some of the bakalite and it's improving. I'm going to have them spray the bay with thinner and then powerwash. If that doesn't improve things, then that may be next year's project.

Mike

Garry · « **Reply #15 on:** January 31, 2014, 02:18:51 »

As a friend said to me once on my 280Sl, if you dont pull the engine you will forever be regretting it and it will be the one item that grates on you after you have done all the exterior.

He was right so the first thing I did with my 230SL was to do the engine bay. Best decision I have taken on the car.

Garry

jameshoward · « **Reply #16 on:** February 03, 2014, 06:09:10 »

I think Garry is entirely right. Given where you are with your car, a few hours spent removing the engine would seem to be time we'll spent in the long run. Removing the engine isn't too hard.

mmizesko · « **Reply #17 on:** February 03, 2014, 10:42:46 »

I hear you guys, but that ship has sailed. I've decided to come back to it in a year or two. Getting it back to Joe's at this point to remove the engine and trailering it back to the paint shop, and back to Joe's again will foul up the project. And it is running so well that I don't want to mess with it right now. When I "detail" the bay, I'll clean up the engine, paint the exhaust manifolds, mask off the rest of the car, and have my painter spray the bay. I'll have more energy for it at a later date. If I do it all now, there won't be anything to play with later.....

But I appreciate the advice. Noted.

I am going to cad up the fuel lines while it is down there, however.

Mike Mizesko
Columbus, OH

garymand · « **Reply #18 on:** February 03, 2014, 19:51:45 »

In the early 70's, detailers and used car dealers (in California anyway) were spaying the entire engine bay with clear from spray cans. It was abit garish and within a year it started yellowing. They sprayed everything, hoses, chrome, wires... I bought a dodge dart for my wife where it didmn't matter, but I saw at least one w113 completely clear coated. Fortunately the fad didn't last long.

jameshoward · « **Reply #19 on:** February 03, 2014, 20:03:15 »

The one thing I wouldn't bother to do is paint the exhaust manifolds. Despite knowing I'm about to be contradicted, I've never seen that job produce a result that lasted much more than a few months on regularly used car. Some folk have had success with ceramic coating, I've read.

mmizesko · « **Reply #20 on:** February 03, 2014, 21:58:29 »

James,

I just hate that Leprosy look of the cast iron under such beautiful intake manifolds. (apologies to any members afflicted with same).

Mike

66andBlue · « **Reply #21 on:** February 03, 2014, 23:09:38 »

James and Mike,
the job can look good a bit longer than just a few months. In my case about 4-5 years or 20K miles.

BUT you must follow the instructions very closely. After cleaning the exhaust manifolds (media blasting?) make sure they are free of grease then use VHT ceramic paint and cure the paint as described http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/flameproof/:
Off the Vehicle
Paint must be completely dry before curing
Heat to 250°F (121°C) for 30 minutes
Cool for 30 minutes
Heat to 400°F (204°C) for 30 minutes
Cool for 30 minutes
Heat to 650°F (343°C ) for 30 minutes
Caution: Do not exceed the temperature of the least heat tolerant component or the base metal

I used a gas grill for curing and measured the temperature of the manifold using a tele-thermometer.

jameshoward · « **Reply #22 on:** February 04, 2014, 06:26:30 »

I knew that would happen!

I've never had any luck with those applications, but Alfred's process sends suitably thorough.

When you remove the manifolds for painting there are a lot of other jobs you can do around that side of the engine to tart it up a bit. Just give the bolts a really, really good soaking for a few days in Plus Gas or similar and they'll come out like a charm. You'll need a new manifold gasket.

pj · « **Reply #23 on:** February 04, 2014, 07:53:43 »

Hi Mike,
key thing is... are you going to be ready in time to drive her in the summer?

More seriously, you mention that you hope to detail the engine bay in the future. Do you think you can mask off all the mechanical bits and still get at the engine bay without pulling everything out? I'm facing the same situation. With the rebuilt engine running so well, it seems like a waste to spend money to pull it. But I kind of took it for granted that the engine must be pulled so that the engine bay can be made to look pretty. Am I missing an opportunity?

mmizesko · « **Reply #24 on:** February 04, 2014, 14:03:53 »

Peter,

I don't think I would do it by masking. I'd probably pull the engine back to the tranny, and remove every hose, line, and wire. That's why I wasn't anxious to do it in this project, as it would add a couple of months to the project. I put 9,000 miles on her last summer and anticipate the same this year. I hope to have her back on her feet by May 1. The painter said he would powerwash the bay before she leaves, so we'll have to foil off the alternator and electrical components. I think we'll us a lacquer thinner brushed on before we blow it, to get that old spray varnish off. I'll let you know how that works.

Mike

News:

Author Topic: new paint and dashwork project (finis!) (Read 40105 times)

Filippo

Filippo

KevinC