Help help. Door striker needed for my 2

[joelj]

Hello group,

I have been looking for a door striker for my pagoda 280sl 1968 w113 with chassis number 11304412004891.

I believe the part number is  1107201504.

Would anyone happen to have one for sale?

I've bought maybe three sets from different people and they continue to be the wrong one. I've attached a photo of the part that I need .

Thanks

Joel

[stickandrudderman]

There are two different types.
You need to provide better pictures.

[66andBlue]

The striker for your car is NLA for a long time and correct used ones are rarely offered on eBay.
You may have to go to the replacement striker with 4 screw holes and a wider distance (55mm) between the screw holes as described here:
http://www.sls-hh-shop.de/en/230-280SL-W113/72-Door/72-b-Info-Door-Catch/

[tel76]

If you want the three screw hole type I have a pair in good condition.

[joelj]

Thank you for stickand rudderman, 66 and Blue, the posts regarding my concern.

66and blue is correct. the striker found on the 1968 280sl is no longer available from the classic center. In addition, and it was gernold and tom Collit who pointed it out that the striker found on the 1968 pagoda is only found in that year so these strikers are extremely rare. Fortunately they both had this particular striker on hand and I bought them both. I figured if it is this rare I might as well keep a spare for the driver side.

After years of trying to figure  it out, adjusting here and there, buying two striker sets with three holes, and still not getting my door to close properly, finally , the units I got from both tom and gernold were the correct ones. Thanks guys.

So for the guys who own a 1968 pagoda , and if your door striker is starting to show signs of wear and tear, I suggest you try and look for a replacement as soon as possible. They are going going and soon they will all be all gone...

Joel

[Kayvan]

Anyone know of a current source ?

I have a '68 250 SL with 3 hole striker and on driver side it has play and wear

Is Gernold the best source ?

ps, why do some 3 hole sets not work ? Are these the w110 sedan variants or 230 SL Chrome or other repro 3 hole versions?

[Tyler S]

Kayvan, For 250sl vin 2980 and up, you would have to modify the door jamb to accept the 4 hole striker with a wider bolt pattern and use the later 280sl striker. The other alternative would be to use the earlier 230sl strikers and replace your door latches with the earlier style.

[Kayvan]

What size Phillips head screwdriver fits these door striker screws?

 #2, #3?

Trying not to strip, slip, or scratch paint....

Thinking square shaft/shank to get leverage with a wrench

[Tyler S]

Kayvan, Get yourself an impact driver. Very cheap at any auto parts store. You WILL strip the heads trying with just a screwdriver.

[Kayvan]

Thanks Tyler

Is that for loosening and tightening?

Taking a hammer to my door jamb my give me heart attack

[66andBlue]

If the screws are really tight then an impact driver to get them out is the way to go.
Putting them in I use a #3 PH (not PZ !) bit for the insert on my ratchet wrench and also to take them out again.

[Kayvan]

So I somehow found a 1968 SL 3-hole L door striker in excellent condition (see pics below).

I carefully removed my old striker and compared it to the new one; exactly the same.

When I test fit my old striker by hand on the door latch conical piece, it slides and catches the brass cam thru first click and second.

The new catch however will only slide to first click and cam won't turn further.

Looking underneath the catch; there is square tooth/cannel that has been rounded on the old unit and the newer unit's is still squared and impedes second turn of cam.

Tried mounting new catch to see if door swing/angle might play part; still no fit. Tried center of masking tape dot and 2hrs of R&R per manual; no go.

Ended up cleaning my old catch with WD-40 and 3M adhesive cleaner. Tons of dried grease came off, rubber softened up and brass insert became polished smooth. Cleaned latch cam & conical piece and applied dot of lithium grease to catch.

Retightened old catch and it appears to catch somewhat better and makes thunk sound.

Disappointing as it seems the conical latch & cam / catch develops wear groove over time or cam edge distorts; and introducing a new piece won't work. Considered getting new latch; however, read posts where many have ended up with mismatched latches/catches of same yr/design that don't mate. Or there is mm difference in lower channel/tooth in some catches?

Unfortunate as new catch was excellent with zero play.

[66andBlue]

....
When I test fit my old striker by hand on the door latch conical piece, it slides and catches the brass cam thru first click and second.
The new catch however will only slide to first click and cam won't turn further.
Looking underneath the catch; there is square tooth/cannel that has been rounded on the old unit and the newer unit's is still squared and impedes second turn of cam....

Kayvan,
I don't understand why your new 3-hole latch should not rotate the notch in the cam. The ridge (or tooth as you call it) at the bottom of the latch should be square and NOT rounded off. Measure its thickness and the width of the notch in the cam and compare.
Also take a look in the manual and compare your latch (old and new) with the one shown:
http://www.sl113.org/wiki/ChassisBody/Doors#Latch

[Kayvan]

Alfred,

Thanks for link; somehow the latch mechanism part of manual wasn't loading

I think the pic from manual of squared off / straight edge channel explains what a correct channel looks like.

The new catch I got, on closer inspection has a like a beveled edge.

My old catch had more wear, but enough in center to catch 2nd click (see pic).

Sending  back to seller; guess I'll have to look for NOS

On more successful note:

Home Depot has an excellent HUSKY #3 Phillips head screw-driver for $7.47 with square shaft / Shank; tip is coated with matte carbide type finish for no slip. Fits screws perfectly; thick rubber handle to wedge end against knee and with wrench on shaft can precisely turn.

 http://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3-x-6-in-Phillips-Screwdriver-210606440/204663544

[Kayvan]

FYI

Cleaning your Door Latch & Catch helps...

Not sure if it's dry graphite, grease, soot, or dirt.

-Used WD-40 on rags / paper towels wrapped around screwdriver (better than spray, with drips / runs, stains on leather)

-takes about 6 sheets of pure black gunk that comes off

-wrapped cloth around screw driver tip, soaked in WD to clean cam tooth/channel

-followed with 3M adhesive remover on towels to get inside housing looking bright silver and outside of catch and brass insert.

Finished with towel wrung out very hot water to clean smudges and remove any odor.

Positive cam to latch sound and click when locking with key.

Worth the effort; as both were caked black!