Headlights not flashing from steering column control, '66 230SL

[Ron]

Does anyone have the pinouts for the plug for the turn signal/ headlight/ ww control stalk?  My brights could be flashed from with the stalk until a few weeks ago, when they just faded out during a flash.  The foot switch still works for the brights.  The fuses involved are good.  I don't know if it is a problem in the wiring or the control on the steering column.  I'd like to find the pins that the stalk uses for the bright lights.  Thanks, Ron

[66andBlue]

Take a look here: http://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/SteeringColumnSwitch
I believe that the 230SL pin lay-out for the high-beam flasher is the same as the 280SL, that is, put an Ohm meter between pins 5 and 8 and check whether the contacts close (0 Ohm).

[jameshoward]

Having a US car, mine has never worked. There was a post I found years ago about how to modify the US stalk to allow the lights to flash, but I've lost it from my archive. Another job to get around to at some point...

I recall that it said something about how to fix common problems, also. Alfred's post looks pretty comprehensive, though.

Good luck with the repair.

[66andBlue]

Jamie,
on my 230SL (US car) the wire to the fuse was not connected but folded back and taped off.  All I needed to do was connecting it. 
On US 280SL cars pins 5 and 8 are not connected and this needs to be fixed. Ron has a Euro car so these wire connections should be all there.

[jameshoward]

Thanks, Alfred,

So it's really as simple as untaping and connecting a wire at fuse (x) inside the engine bay? I must have read the instructions for a 280 all that time ago. I'll have a look at the weekend.

You may be able to hear me kicking myself from the West Coast...

[ejboyd5]

By chance, I just came upon this information several days ago in Volume Number 8 (May, 1994) of The MERCEDES Collector in a Q&A exchange on page 3:

     “It’s a simple matter of reconnecting a wire that was disconnected or cut on U.S.A.-bound cars; however, gaining access to the wire in order to reconnect it is not very easy.
     The disconnected wire will be found doubled over and taped up, immediately behind the fuse block. In addition to regular and Phillips screwdrivers, you will need a hemostat or equivalent pliers and a solderless-terminal compression tool with proper connector.
     For safety’s sake, disconnect the battery before starting the job. Remove the fuse block cover and unscrew the two Phillips head screws that secure the fuse block to the firewall. Locate the taped up wire, remove the tape, and fasten a connector to the end if it does not have one. This wire must then be added to the #1 fuse terminal, on the end with the most wires. Use the hemostat or equivalent to pull the fuse block back into position and refasten it with the Phillips screws. – F.M.”

[66andBlue]

Thanks 'ej' for digging up the instruction.

Jamie, if you do this the high-beam flasher should work provided you have the Euro headlamps. In case your US headlamps do not work you may have to check the wiring more carefully within the headlamp and also the pigtail connector going into lamp bucket. I believe we had a discussion here also but cannot find right now.

[jameshoward]

Hi, ALfred,

I have euro lamps now. I'll do a bit of digging on the forum. I'm quite intrigued to think that it could be a relatively simple operation to get it working. Plus, it means I don't have to think about doing my tax return. 

Jamie

[Ron]

Thanks for the info and pin out.  I'm embarrassed I did not find that myself on this site, but I did use the search.  It just did not pull up the Tech Manual item.

I ran a check at the plug, it is in the switch.  I'll pull it and see if I can fix it.  The contacts are probably burned away.  I used a wire jumper on the socket side, and the lights do flash, with a juicy spark at the socket.  All the current for the lights goes through that switch, no relay.

Side Note: my car was delivered in Munich, so the flasher is wired.  There's a discussion here about connecting US cars so the flasher works.  My daily driver is a '71 220D, ordered and delivered at the factory, then brought to the US.  I purchased it from the original owner.  The flasher did not work.  I pulled out the fuse block and underneath was the flasher wire, folded over, and taped to the harness.  It was easy to cut the tape, it was separate from the wiring harness tape, and connect the wire.  The flasher has worked for 6 years now.  I wondered at the time why this was done on this car, now I know.  It was because it was built for importation.  I have since switched it over the euro headlights. 

Someday I want to apply and connect connect the rear fog lights on both the 230SL and the 220D.

[Ron]

I fixed the problem.  One of the useful items in the technical manual on this site for this problem was this thread:

http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=11100.msg74187#msg74187

On reply 20, there's some pictures of the switch taken apart and the last shot shows where the problem was for mine.  There are two holes in the fiber board, each with two little plastic rods (not shown) which push on the copper at the hole bottoms seen in the picture.  Those copper bottoms in the holes are the switches for the headlight flasher (near center) and the windshield washer (near top of fiber board). 

For my switch, the headlight copper got so hot, it melted the little rod until it was too short to actuate the switch with the turn signal stalk pulled toward the driver.  I made a new one out of plastic.  It must be made with an insulator, as the rod touches the switch copper at one end (12V) and the turn signal stalk (ground) at its other end.

That new one melted, with only a few flashes.  Resistance for my contacts turns out to be 0 with a hard pull, but 1 to 2 ohms with light pulls on the stalk.  The headlight current goes through that switch, so that's whats melting the rod.  I could see no way to clean the contacts for that headlight switch. 

I wanted to make a glass rod, but did not know how.  So I made one with the hardwood handle of a tiny paint brush, cutting it down to correct size with sandpaper and a drill.

It is in the car, and all is working.  I am now determined to only flash with firm pressure, with zero ohms hopefully, and very quick flashes, so the heat does not build up if it's a bad day and resistance is high.  So far it is doing well.

Thanks for the help mates,

Ron