Going to Look at a 280SL Today -Advice??

[recips]

Greetings, I am a newbie to the forum and the same as far as the Mercedes hobby is concerned. Later today I am going to look at a '71 280SL that is supposedly a 2 top AC car and I have a few concerns. First of all the car was parked 3 years ago (supposedly running  ) and hasn't been started since. I am familiar enough with the mechanicals of a car to do a basic inspection and will obviously try to get the engine to at least turn over. That being said I would appreciate any advice as to what are the typical issues these cars have ie; areas prone to rust, engine/ driveline issues, interior problems, etc. I am obviously limited inspection wise as the car isn't running and will be taking a leap of faith should I decide to make an offer. It appears I will be able to check all the numbers relative to the car using the info that is provided on this site, it has been a great resource by the way! Assuming the car isn't a rust bucket and the visual inspection of the other aspects of the car are positive do you have any suggestions as to the value of such a car? I'm going to look at the car with a co worker of the seller and I'm being told the seller wants around 20K. Any thoughts or advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Eric

[JamesL]

Welcome Eric. You're not the first to ask this question so....

http://www.sl113.org/wiki/Buying/PrepurchaseEvaluation

[recips]

James, this is exactly what I was looking for, thank you!

[Flyair]

also this
http://www.motoringinvestments.com/MainPage.htm

click on the free 2800SL buyer's guide

[recips]

Stan, thanks for the buyers guide.

I went to look at the car yesterday and found it to have an engine from a 280SE rather than an SL. I know this is significant to the value of the car and have read that many of these cars have non original motors due to overheating issues. Is there a "rule of thumb" number to deduct for a non original/ matching engine? Thanks

[kampala]

Depending on what year the 280sl is ...  a 280SE/A engine may be correct.

http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=20215.0

[Neil Thompson]

For $20k I'd suggest the value has already been lowered accordingly and if you see anything that half resembles anything on the Motoring Investments website you would be lucky. If it's a decent car body wise and runs ok it's probably worth a punt but leave some money in reserve to improve it because you're definitely gonna need it!

Good luck

Neil

[Flyair]

As per the post from Kampala the engine with 280SE may be absolutely correct for certain 280SL. You have to make sure the engine numbers match what says the data card.

 

[Iconic]

I went to look at the car yesterday and found it to have an engine from a 280SE rather than an SL.

How exactly do you know that?
You might be correct, but you might be making a wrong assumption (eg: The head is stamped 280SE, so the engine is out of a 280SE).
Take a look in the Technical Manual for more information.
I apologize in advance if you are way beyond this concept already.

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The engine block number is 130.980-12-040542 and according to what I have deciphered on this site should be for a 280SE. Please let me know if this is correct. Thanks again for any and all opinions. -Eric

[stickandrudderman]

Personally it wouldn't bother me if the engine was not original or that it had been replaced by a 280SE as they are fundamentally the same. I might, however, use it as leverage when negotiating the price...........

[Shvegel]

If you are going back I would suggest checking the following areas for rust or signs of repairs:

Reach inside the front wheel well above the tire and check the inboard side at the top. There is a channel or "C" shaped reinforcement welded on the inner fender and the top usually rusts first.

Check the the rear frame members just behind the rocker panel assemblies inboard and out.

Check the rear panel of the car behind the gas tank.

Check the trunk floor under the mats. Almost all cars have some rust there so it is also a good negotiating point.

Any signs of rust, new undercoating or patches of non-matching undercoat are usually a bad sign. 

The mechanicals don't worry me that much especially since the engine is a non-matching engine. Even if it is junk it does not effect the value of the car.  The body however can become a nightmare of expense in short order.

[recips]

I will check those areas. I'm going to look at the car again on Monday (with the owner present this time) because I do have a couple of concerns about some body repair that was supposedly done in the 80's. If I feel comfortable afterward I am going to make him an offer. Thanks again for all the help, E