Author Topic: Body shell reference photos (Read 16684 times)

stickandrudderman · « **on:** April 03, 2014, 21:34:07 »

I've started what I believe to be a fairly unique restoration in that the shell has been acid dipped, no significant repair work found to be needed and then electro-primed.
Since the shell bears several excellent witness marks to build techniques used by the factory I thought I'd take loads of close-up photos as a future reference.
Of particular interest is the remains of the lead used in a few places plus the extraordinarily neat joins at the wings (fenders) with no filling required.
If anyone has any specific requests for close ups not here speak up soon as we'll start to cover all of this up soon!
See here and enjoy!

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/emkqlpj8eahfnvf/PKN859fySx

GGR · « **Reply #1 on:** April 03, 2014, 21:57:01 »

That is impressive!

jeffc280sl · « **Reply #2 on:** April 04, 2014, 00:59:19 »

These photos should go in the Tech Manual. They are great to have on hand. Thank you

Peter van Es · « **Reply #3 on:** April 04, 2014, 06:52:17 »

I've made a copy. Stick, any problems with me posting them in the Tech Manual somewhere?

It's quite a hefty sized set of pictures... I may need to expand our hosting space first...

stickandrudderman · « **Reply #4 on:** April 04, 2014, 07:18:32 »

It's there for the group to use freely as required so by all means add it to the tech manual.
However, I do retain copywrite and they are not to be used for any commercial purpose without my written consent.

star63 · « **Reply #5 on:** April 04, 2014, 07:27:49 »

Excellent pictures - extremely well preserved body !

Jonny B · « **Reply #6 on:** April 04, 2014, 15:34:39 »

Let me add my thanks for taking and making these photos available, a wonderful reference.

Shvegel · « **Reply #7 on:** April 05, 2014, 12:31:26 »

Thanks for posting those. Picture 19 looks like there might be a crack developing along the spot welds for whatever mounting that is. Might be worth taking a second look.

stickandrudderman · « **Reply #8 on:** April 06, 2014, 16:19:16 »

The other exciting news is that I've had this shell 3d scanned...............

georgem · « **Reply #9 on:** April 06, 2014, 23:07:09 »

Hmmmm........detailed photos............3D scanned - the next step is to convert it to a CAD drawing and loh and behold engineering drawings for manufacture of body shells - - is this where this is heading stick?

GGR · « **Reply #10 on:** April 08, 2014, 00:59:20 »

It would also be interesting to weigh the bare shell.

Airbagman · « **Reply #11 on:** April 21, 2014, 20:15:41 »

I have done the same with my 1965 230SL , acid dipped , then all the welding, then dipped again and electophretically plated. Its a huge job to rebuild, but I am nearly there. The car was a bucket of rust.

George

stickandrudderman · « **Reply #12 on:** April 21, 2014, 21:09:23 »

I notice that you didn't brace the car. Did you put it on a jig to re-build it?

Airbagman · « **Reply #13 on:** April 24, 2014, 06:33:32 »

Yes it was braced before the rust was cut out and all the new parts fitted, whole rear end including chassis legs, floor panels,sills and the rest. To be fair the chaps who dipped it did say they would brace it before dipping. I will post a few more pictures next time.

George

Tom Colitt · « **Reply #14 on:** May 21, 2014, 21:00:13 »

Stick

Nice pictures. This must have been a Southern California car :-)... I'm surprised that the factory under coating was even bad and worth removing with the good condition of the body. It would be nice to see pictures of the leaded joints between the fender and nose section where they filed the head light notches. Di the acid eat the lead? I hear (and see) that the danger of acid dipping is the remaining acid in the seems of the overlap joints I think it may be worthwhile for you to read my article on what to look out for during the re-paint and how the cars would have likely been painted at the factory.

Good Luck, Tom

brad · « **Reply #15 on:** May 21, 2014, 21:12:14 »

Hi,
Can you show photos of the front wing aft of the wheel by the door/sill area, I'm currently repairing this area on my pagoda.
Cheers brad

stickandrudderman · « **Reply #16 on:** August 19, 2016, 17:26:45 »

Nearly there but still some way to go!

Rolf-Dieter ✝︎ · « **Reply #17 on:** August 19, 2016, 18:54:13 »

Hi Colin,

Great photographs, nice thread and update near the end of the project! Thanks for sharing it with everyone. Was this a project for one of your Customers? Must be satisfying seeing it all get back together and running.

Hi Peter,

Did you ever manage to add the photo string of the body shell into the Technical Manual? It be a great reference.

Cheers,

Dieter

stickandrudderman · « **Reply #18 on:** April 05, 2017, 14:45:19 »

Finally finished.
here's a taster while I sort through the many pictures.....

stickandrudderman · « **Reply #19 on:** April 25, 2017, 15:52:20 »

And another little taster: The owner spends a lot of time in Spain and couldn't decide whether he wanted a MPH speedo or a KPH one so I gave him both with the help of a vinyl printer..............

JamesL · « **Reply #20 on:** April 25, 2017, 16:12:40 »

Yum - very neat idea that Colin. Especially with a rally in france coming up though I assume the kph figures you chose are specific to Spain. 50/70/90/110/130 would make more sense for France, for example.

stickandrudderman · « **Reply #21 on:** April 25, 2017, 16:59:07 »

Bespoke models available!

JamesL · « **Reply #22 on:** April 25, 2017, 17:29:43 »

I rather walked into that one, didn't I?

zak · « **Reply #23 on:** May 23, 2017, 02:35:12 »

Fantastic!

Peter h · « **Reply #24 on:** May 23, 2017, 21:21:49 »

And where is the 200 kmh Mark.
Peter

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Author Topic: Body shell reference photos (Read 16684 times)

jeffc280sl

Airbagman

Airbagman

Tom Colitt