fitting original spark plug wires

[Dave]

My #1 wire connector is loose at the plug.  I read how it is preferred to use the original wires and boots.  How can I get in the spark plug boot to close up the connector?  It is #1 the angled one.  It fits over the plug but way loose -  no click.  I have a ball of dielectric grease at the end now.

[Jonny B]

The original wires screw in, that is there is a screw type connection sticking out of the plug boot that you fit the wire onto and then screw it fully into the connector. Only good way to do that is to take the connector off the plug, screw it down and then re-install.

BTW - all the plug connectors on the Pagoda engines should be straight.

[Dave]

 I mean the fit onto the spark plug.  Not connector to wire.

[Jonny B]

Aha, sorry for the mix up. I went to take a look at a set of spares I have, and really can't see much adjustment for tightening for the fit over the plug. Will be curious to see what others have to type.

[Cees Klumper]

Maybe your spark plug is missing that little metal 'knob' that can be screwed on or left off the post, depending on the type wire you have.

[Dave]

It wont fit with the little knob on and way too loose with it off

[Jonny B]

Is it the same case for the other connectors? As I typed earlier, all the connectors for the Pagoda should be straight. The angled one was used on the carburetor engines.

[KevinC]

Jon,

I had also heard that the wire set with the #1 end at 90 degrees was for carbureted engines BUT I also noted this in the Tech Manual...  

"Dan Caron says: be careful when buying ignition wires. The 230 SL uses wires with bakelite ends. K&K's wires are correct and is what I use and sell."

I just purchased a set from K&K and the #1 wire end is 90 degrees. It felt loose for me at first also. I was able to FINALLY get it to click in place by applying more pressure than on the others. And that was with the metal knob at the end removed.

Kevin

[66andBlue]

.... K&K's wires are correct and is what I use and sell  ......

Unfortunately, if K&K sells wire sets with a 90 degree connector then they are still incorrect even with Dan's stamp of approval..
As Jonny B wrote, on all Pagodas spark plug connectors should always be straight. In contrast, connectors on the distributor were straight for 230SLs and 90 degree bent for 280SLs.  The exact date when this happened is not quite clear, it may have been a longer transition period.

[Dave]

I am too loose with the knob removed.  Looks like no easy answer coming.  Anybody take apart the connector to get at the metal click onto sparkplug internal ring?

[rb6667]

Since Kevin got his end to snap on without the little metal cap installed, I would try to push harder as he suggests.  If not, take a junk spark plug and install the metal cap.  Very careful rotating of the plug clockwise up against a bench grinder wheel, may remove just enough of the cap to allow you to get a tight fit.  Swap the modified cap back on to a good plug and give it a try.  Really nothing to lose on this one if it does not work.

[66andBlue]

Not sure what you mean with "spark plug internal ring".  
The connector at the end of the ignition wire connects to the terminal on the spark plug. New spark plugs conform to the SAE standard and have a terminal nut on the end that can be removed exposing a M4 thread.
All Pagoda spark plug wires should have M4 connections and it is virtually impossible to push a M4 connections over the SAE nut by hand - unless you are Hulk - because of the smaller ID.
Take a look at the end of your connector on the cable and compare with the appearance in the photo showing a SAE and a M4 connection. Which one do you have?

[garymand]

sounds like the little wire spring inside the cap is missing on that plug connector.  Try putting #2 on #1.  1st, as above stated the plug will have threads for the connector to mate with. 2nd as you press the cap over the plug, you should feel the spring touch and then jump over the threads on the screw.   3rd check the top of your plugs for the bare screw and 4th if the #1 angled connector simply will not make the required spring connection, look inside to see why not. 

I've never seen the flat springs on the right pics but eather way something insdide the cap is broken/missing.

[66andBlue]

....   I've never seen the flat springs on the right pics but eather way something insdide the cap is broken/missing.

Gary, perhaps you are not old enough.  
What you see on the right in my previous picture are about 40 years old connectors.  Here is a picture of the guts of a more recent BERU ZLE120 connector (1 Kohm, screw connector on the cable end, M4 connector on the spark plug end). Inside an outer metal jacket is a long rubber sleeve surrounding a shorter plastic rod that encloses the internal metal/resistor bridge.  These newer connectors have a metal jack with a "C-clip" like wire spring that grabs the thread on the spark plug.
As I typed before there is no way you can insert a SAE terminal nut into that jack without braking it apart.

[ja17]

Very nice presentation Professor Essor! Yes all W113 engines had straight connectors. The 90 degree connector was used on carbureted six cylinder engines of the era since the distributor was in the way. Suppliers have simplified their inventories over the years by supplying just the sets with the 90 degree end, which will work on both engine typse. However it is only correct for for the carbureted one.

[66andBlue]

Thanks for the flowers, Joe! 
Most of the current sets also do not have screw connections on the cable end but crimp connections or are potted in.

[garymand]

Amazing, we seem to get bogged down it the subtleties of ancillary issues.  His problem isn't the connector screwing into the wire, or that it is  angled or not, the 'knob' SHOULD be missing. and he says: It wont fit with the little knob on and way too loose with it off.

Dave’s cap does not "click" on; it sits loose on the top of the plug.  As Dave says: I am too loose with the knob removed.  Looks like no easy answer coming.  Anybody take apart the connector to get at the metal click onto sparkplug internal ring?  


As we can see in the correct SAE connection pictures:

1) only a sparkplug with an M4 threaded screw terminal, will attach firmly with the SAE connector.  Our sparkplugs come with the wrong cap or knob screwed on the M4 threaded top terminal of the sparkplug and it must be unscrewed to connect properly.  But, Dave states that he has the 'knob' removed.

That narrows it down to 1 possibility:


His #1 connector is missing the spring clip and that connector will not grab a good sparkplug m4 screw.

As I think you are saying Dave by: "Anybody take apart the connector to get at the metal click onto sparkplug internal ring?"  Clean out the dielectric grease you put in, see if the connector has the "C-clip" like wire spring that grabs the thread on the spark plug as 66 and Blue mentioned or the flat spring in the older cap are intact.  You can see both in the Connector pictures.  Otherwise buy a new/good-used one.  

  

[Cees Klumper]

Also, please note that the Tech manual has material in it that is now 10+ years old. When it says "Dan Caron says:" that means it's material from the old Yahoo! W113 discussion forum that I assembled into text files. Quite possible that K&K has changed what it sells for spark plug wire sets now, 12 years later.

[Peter van Es]

And every Full Member can update the page in the Tech Manual to accurately reflect the current situation...

[Dave]

Thank you Gary and everyone else.
I know lots more now than I did before.  I will get on it, and I bet the spring is missing.  Can do - one way or the other !

Dave

[Novamonte]

I purchased a new set a few years ago from the Mercedes dealer. It took one day to receive them. It is an OEM Beru set with the correct straight connectors.

[kampala]

Novamonte,

Would mind posting a photo or two ... it would be appreciated.

Oz

[Novamonte]

I don't have a pictureof my own set available but it looks just like the attached, from www-
.authenticclassics.com.