Author Topic: Re: Whose White 1970 or '71 280SL is this? (Joe A., Naj?...)  (Read 6312 times)

Tom Colitt

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I got this picture from a member off this forum, but I could use a higher quality/ resolution picture to zoom into the emissions sticker on the valve cover. I already have gathered most of the information for that sticker together with Will Samples and Dave Gallon, but am still missing a few chunks. This is the only sticker that is not currently being reproduced in one form or another and it was the most fragile sticker that MB used only on 1970 through 1972 US spec cars. If anyone has an idea whose white 280SL this is, please post. :-)...

Thanks, Tom Colitt

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« Last Edit: November 02, 2014, 15:59:34 by Tom Colitt »

Jack Jones

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Re: Whose White 1970 or '71 280SL is this?
« Reply #1 on: October 20, 2014, 21:22:01 »
Jack Jones                                                                                                   
1970 280SL 4 Speed
1984 280SL 5 Speed

Tom Colitt

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Re: Whose White 1970 or '71 280SL is this?
« Reply #2 on: October 25, 2014, 15:13:19 »
Thanks Jack

Unfortunately that is not the sticker we are looking for. The sticker I am referring to has a part number 108 584 0621. I am enclosing the bits text of what I have recovered off the valve cover on a very well preserved 1970 280SL. As you can see there are a number of differences.

I wish I could find the owner of the white 280SL in the picture....

kampala

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Re: Whose White 1970 or '71 280SL is this?
« Reply #3 on: October 29, 2014, 11:45:01 »
Tom,

You might have already seen this from the tech manual, but just in case you have not ---- this one looks to be "close" to what you are looking for --- not exact.  Looks like it may be a repro as a couple of items are slightly different.
250sl - later - manual
280sl - 1971 - Auto - LSD

69280sl

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Re: Whose White 1970 or '71 280SL is this?
« Reply #4 on: October 31, 2014, 04:25:35 »
Off topic, but can anyone guess (or know) why the valve cover in Kampalas post is not "die cast" smooth? Why all the wrinkles?
Gus
Gus

68 280sl, signal red/ beige/black softtop. Car # 1084

hkollan

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Re: Whose White 1970 or '71 280SL is this?
« Reply #5 on: October 31, 2014, 16:22:14 »
Off topic, but can anyone guess (or know) why the valve cover in Kampalas post is not "die cast" smooth? Why all the wrinkles?
Gus

Increased surface area for better cooling.

Hans
Hans K, Cuenca, Spain
1968 280 SL 387 Blue met., parchment leather
1971 280 SL 462 Beige met, Brown leather
1968 280 SL 180 Silver, Red leather
1964 300 SE Lang 040 Black w/Red leather
1985 500 SL 735 Astral Silver w/Black leather
1987 560 SEC 199 Black met., Black leather

69280sl

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Re: Whose White 1970 or '71 280SL is this?
« Reply #6 on: November 02, 2014, 01:30:23 »
"Increased surface area for better cooling."

I understand the theory, but my valve cover is as smooth as you would expect a die casting to be. No wrinkles, not even on the one I had powder coated that Michael Salemi has posted about.

Gus
Gus

68 280sl, signal red/ beige/black softtop. Car # 1084

Tom Colitt

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Re: Whose White 1970 or '71 280SL is this? (Joe A., Naj?...)
« Reply #7 on: November 02, 2014, 15:53:29 »
Thanks for all the "action" on this thread, in my absence. To answer the latest question first. I do not know the definitive answer, but my two cents as an engineer familiar with manufacturing principles I would say that this "manufacturing flaw" may have been the result of a run of valve covers where the die cast machine was not optimally adjusted, but quality control passed the valve covers nevertheless because they were functionally fine. The way in which the machine could be off is that the temperature of the mold may have been at the lower limit of the range, causing the aluminum to solidify slightly too soon. This may have caused what looks like cracking in the surface that is in the closest proximity to the "cool" mold, while the main portion of the substrate is still liquid. Sort of like a lava effect, as the upper layer looks jagged. I would guess that lubrication of the mold and injection pressure are other variables that might be influence the final result. What I know for sure is that both smooth and jagged valve covers are correct for Pagodas. I have seen many of both varieties and a third that is even coarser in appearance.

Oz. Thanks for the great photo. (Maybe that's where I got my photo, but your resolution is much better). I would say you are right and this looks like a reproduction of the sticker I want to make. The part number is the same as the original (attached). However, I can't figure out why it would have that many differences and omissions. For instance, the word transmission doesn't line up well with the word distributor below it and in the line below that there appears to be a word that looks like it may have said butterfly (valve?). Also, the people that reproduced the sticker used 0.1mm valve lash compared with the 0.08mm in the original and the timing instructions on the original sticker say AfterTDC and not BTDC. Yet, both stickers use the same 108... part number. Obviously, I trust my worn original the most...

I'd love to get Joe Alexander's or Naj's input, especially for any recollection they might have about any tune-up instructions that might relate to the butterfly valve in the "vacuum is disconnected" line. (Keeping in mind that it all has to fit the language that is visible in the attached photos :-)...