230SL Shifter Play (Video) - Is this normal?

[ABikePeddler]

I recently noticed a lot of increased play in the 4-speed manual shifter of our 65' 230SL.  Upon removing the rubber boot and plastic cover which is help by 4 bolts under carpet I noticed the base plate (which has the 2 visible bolts) was not affixed the the transmission tunnel and was able to move in all directions and even lift.  I am sure this is not the way it is supposed to function and i cannot figure out why it has all this play in it.  It's almost as if I am missing a piece that holds the base plate securely to the transmission tunnel. When the plastic cover is over this base plate there is still so much room for the base plate to move around under the cover... this makes shifting so sloppy. 

Here is what I mean: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4qDih7GHLx0

[GGR]

Time for new bushings.

[Jordan]

There is a lot of info in the Tech Manual (as well as various threads) about replacing the bushings.  It can be done from inside the car and is one of those tasks that is relatively inexpensive.

[ABikePeddler]

There is a lot of info in the Tech Manual (as well as various threads) about replacing the bushings.  It can be done from inside the car and is one of those tasks that is relatively inexpensive.

Before posting here I read through the Tech Manual as well as did a thorough search through the Forum posts to find an answer. This does not appear to be a bushing issue as I replaced most of them 1 year ago and the shifter is tight especially when I manually hold that base plate in place when moving the shifter.  The plastic cover (see image) that bolts to the transmission tunnel that covers this whole shifter assembly almost seems to big to properly capture and hold in place that base plate.  There is definitely excess room (or a missing part) under that plastic cover and I can see that base plate moving around under that plastic cover.  When fully assembled and driving the car I can lift the shifter (and base plate) a full 1/4 inch.  What is so strange is it did not do this before I had some recent fuel injector service done at a local shop.  I got the car back and there was this play.     

When I look at the exploded view of the shifter linkage I can find no missing pieces.  Everything appears to be there.  So strange... any advice greatly appreciated. I am sure it is something so simple...
 

[ctaylor738]

Whenreally sloppy, it's usually that the bushings where the rod connects to the transmission are gone, #21 on the diagram.

[Jowe]

Are you mising the rubber frame, #87 in the diagram?

[GGR]

Bushings #107 (one on each rod) may also be part of your problem.

[Rodolfo]

You should order the full set (see our manual). Will be around 60 Euro. Makes a big difference. All these things add up in endplay, you see.

The tip about #87 should be taken very serious. At my car it was missing as well. And then you can lift the whole lever for sure.

But I can see it is in the other plastic part (#88) in your car. Where is your part #81

It is an easy and very rewarding job.

best regards, Rudy

[enochbell]

Just did this job, it took several orders to get the parts right, but here is what I see:

The play you demonstrate in the video looks normal.  Well, expected at least, given that the bushing (#87) needs to be installed and the upper plate needs to be tightened down to trap the bushing between the top cover and the lower gear lever support.  It appears that you have the bushing installed in the top cover, just make sure it is oriented properly, I think that the ridge faces "up".  Mine was split and unable to keep enough pressure on the lower gear lever support, but I also needed the bushings in the gear lever support as well. If you replave #87, put everything together and tighten the top cover and you STILL have excessive play after you do that then you will need to replace first the pair of bushings that trap the lever ball in the lower lever support. 

Hope that helps,
g

[ABikePeddler]

G-

Your response was exactly what I was looking for.  That #87 rubber bushing does seem to be at the center of this issue but the bushing is correctly installed and feels pliable and in good condition (it is not crushed down or cracked in any way) and yet there is all this room for the gear lever support to move around under the top cover.  (Top cover was fully tightened down and was not loose)  Should this #87 bushing press down firmly on the gear lever support?

As a precaution I am going to order up a full set of the standard plastic shifter linkage bushings (#97, #82, #21..)  and replace those before I start replacing #87 rubber bushing just to eliminate that as a source for the play.  Does anyone recommend lubricating the plastic bushings?

[enochbell]

Yes, the bushing should keep enough pressure on the assembly to capture it tight, with no movement but for a dampening effect.  And I think I see the problem.  You are missing the lower bushing, part #81 in your exploded view, part #11 here:

http://www.sls-hh-shop.de/en/230-280SL-W113/25-26-Clutch-4-Speed-Box/26-b-Gearlever-Linkage/?_artperpage=10&listorderby=oxstock&listorder=desc

And yes, I would grease the plastic bushings.  Once you get in there your will probably find that the lower boot, which keeps the assembly clean and the grease in place, has degraded, you will want to replace that as well.

Best,
g

[ABikePeddler]

Thank you so much...  that makes total sense!  If there is supposed to be some sort of sandwiching of the gear lever support plate I'm missing a piece of the bread!

You mentioned I am missing the lower bushing, part #81 in my exploded view or part #11 on the SLS site but those appear to be different parts.  I found a better diagram (below...).  I think I am missing what is called a "buffer plate" which is #14 on the diagram below.  I may also be missing #11 as well but I cannot tell what that is.  (#11 appears to be NLA)

Here is what I think I am missing (upper right hand part of image): http://www.vintageeuroparts.com/100424.html

[Rodolfo]

Told you ;-)

[enochbell]

Yes, I think it is the lower buffer plate that you need, number 14 in my view, number 81 in yours.  Also, I said before that the ridge on the upper plate should face "up", but I think that it should face "down", as that is how it is oriented in the exploded views.

Best,
g

[ABikePeddler]

Told you ;-)

You were right!  Thank you for your help.

[ABikePeddler]

Yes, I think it is the lower buffer plate that you need, number 14 in my view, number 81 in yours.  Also, I said before that the ridge on the upper plate should face "up", but I think that it should face "down", as that is how it is oriented in the exploded views.

Best,
g

Can't thank you enough G for your time.  Just called local MB dealer and ordered $15 buffer bushing... will assemble all this when it arrives. Car has been in our family for 48 years and I doubt it has shifted correctly for all but about 7 of those years.... it will be interesting to see how the cars shifter should have felt all this time.

[Rodolfo]

Bike peddler: mountainbike?

PS. a mountainbike + its  26" wheels fit perfectly in a 230 sl trunk. I use that frequently. Never tried the 29" model.

[ABikePeddler]

ABikePeddler = bicycle retailer. 

700c, 27.5" and 29er bikes will also fit in the trunk (with spare tire removed). Bicycles will also fit in passenger seat as well as behind the drivers and passengers seats.  I sometimes use my 230SL as a SUV. 

Shifter parts on order..  can't wait to try my fresh shifting!

[Rodolfo]

I will check. My other bike is a Specialized epic 29". Since it is a full suspension, it might be to big as a frame.

[ABikePeddler]

Hate it when Op's don't update a post with a final outcome so here is my update to the loose shifter issue.

The loose shifter and vague shifting in my 65's 230SL (4-speed manual) was bushing related but not the bushings I thought would be the issue.  For the sake of helping out someone in the future that may run across this post seeking answers to a similar problem let me give a quick overview...  

The shifter linkage has numerous bushings.  Some plastic and some are rubber.  In my case all the plastic bushings were in excellent condition. (I replaced them anyways since I was already in there and had the parts on hand.)  The problem in my case was two fold.  1) The plate the shifter stalk mounts to is sandwiched by two rectangular rubber pads that act as a buffer to keep vibration down as the shift knob.  When I recently had my interior restored back in October the interior shop must have found one of these rectangular pads to be rotted out and they then discarded it while replacing the carpet.  It was a $16 part from Mercedes part counter and easily installed once i peeled up all the new carpet.  

But this still didn't stop the assembly from moving about even while properly sandwiched by the rectangular pads.  2) What ended up being the real issue was two small rubber bushings.  These bushings are located about a foot in front of the shifter plate at the end of two locator rods.  These rods keep the shifter plate located solidly in one place without Mercedes having to resort to bolting the shifter plate assembly to the transmission tunnel.  The purpose of this (I am guessing) is to, again, keep drivetrain vibration from reaching the shifter stalk. Basically the entire assembly is buffered by either rubber of plastic bushings in a free floating sort of design.  

On my shifter the little rubber bushings at the end of the locator rods were packed out and rotten.  Not having these parts on hand I thought for a moment and realized I had the perfect thing.  I razor bladed slices out of a rubber exhaust doughnut (perfect diameter) and then drilled it to be the proper fit.  (see picture of old bushings next to my un-drilled homemade version) I lubed all the bushings up (including new rubber bushings), put everything back together and VIOLA!  Shifting as MB intended it to be!  Really astonishing to have shifting this precise and accurate.  The much over used analogy of "rifle bolt shifting feel" is applicable here.  

So thanks to all that helped guide me on this repair.  It was relatively simple and I recommend using MB parts throughout to maximize the lifespan of this heavily used part of the drivetrain.