How do I remove the rev counter cable?

[jan lauwers]

Hello Folks,

I am on my way to replacing the rear crank seal since it is leaking. I spent this weekend disconnecting all the leads to take engine and AT out. So far everything has gone to plan, I am ready to lift it out... except for one minor thing that I don't seem to manage: How do I unscrew the rev counter cable from the block? I have undone the hat shaped bold that sits around the cable, but what then? Is that enough, should I just pull hard? I see a bolt that seems to hold the cable IN the body of the engine... Should I remove that? That bold is difficult to access. I want to know for sure if there is more to it than just pulling, I don't want to damage the cable.

Thanks for your help gentlemen!

Jan

[ja17]

Hello Jan,

You need to unfasten the round serrated ring to dis-connect the cable.  It should just pull out. 

[jan lauwers]

Joe,

Thank you for your answer... but I am still not clear. By the serrated ring, do you mean the cap shaped bolt that sits around the hose of the cable (1), or do you mean the hexagonal ring that sits IN the block (2). I have undone only (1) and the cable does not come out. I presume I must undo (2) as well, or is my cable just stuck for some reason?

Thanks again,

Jan

[ja17]

Jan, the hex fitting in the block (2), does not need to come out.  Your cable must be stuck.  Most likely the fitting (2) cannot be removed unless the cable is off.

[ctaylor738]

Think we're having a terminology problem here.  I think the "hat shaped bolt"  aka "cap shaped bolt" (Jan), and the "serrated ring" (Joe) are the same thing.  You unscrew the serated ring, and the cable should just pull out.  You might try a a pair of pliers to get a better grip on the cable. 

[Cees Klumper]

Agree with Chuck, I think Jan has done all he needs to by uncrewing the nut that holds the cable in place, and I've always been able to then just pull the cable out, without difficulty. Maybe something has it 'glued' / stuck to the housing, like a sealant to avoid possible leaks (just guessing now).

[jan lauwers]

Thanks gentlemen, now it is clear. It should have come out with what I did so far. I'll just have to pull harder.

Merci!

Jan

[Rodolfo]

En anders kom ik wel eens langs, Jan, ik deed het verleden jaar;-) Woon in Sint-Job.

[jan lauwers]

Rodolfo,

Da's heel vriendelijk. Ik ga eerst dit weekend zelf nog eens proberen. Ik wil niet nodeloos beslag op je tijd leggen.

Jan

[jan lauwers]

Just to let you know that I managed to get the cable out... but I had to pull very hard. I used the hoist. Even a pair of pliers was not enough so I am grateful that you guys informed me that pulling was the right thing to do.

Thanks gentlemen!


Jan

[Starkermann]

If you have unscrewed the cap, then just pull hard!  I recommend that you either take the cable out, clean and lube it with MB speedometer lube or else just buy a new one.  If they develop resistance they can ruin the bearing in your tachy...

[jpinet]

Regarding lubing the cable, I know that you should not do that as lube will gradually work its way up the cable and eventually into the rpm counter itself, which you don't want. I read Starkermann's comment about MB speedo lube. I've never heard of that, but if MB uses it for the speedo cable, I assume it's good for the rpm. I would not use anything else.

[jan lauwers]

Thanks gentlemen. Your comments make me think now. I do have a little problem with the speedo meter: often the speed index does not come up when I drive off from standing still. Not a major problem; a tick of my finger on the glass makes the index jump up. It is one of these little problems of which I think: 'some day I will have to do something about that'... it is very low on my priority list!
Do you guys think that it is a matter of replacing the cable? On the other hand, I could try to lube it perhaps... if that does not work, I can still buy a new cable right?

Jan