230 Rear Main Seal Leak

[admin]

[Originally posted by Mike Thompson whose new Username is "mikey".]

Can anyone tell me what (besides pulling my engine) I can do to stop the rear main seal leak on my 100k mi, 66 230 SL? After driving for more than 10 minutes the clutch no longer holds above 4k rpm and there are always new drops of oil on the clutch slave cylinder and around the bell housing. BTW- I already made sure that the PCV pipe to the intake is not plugged.

I'm hoping that I can just pull the tranny and flywheel while I'm re-doing the clutch but I haven't a clue where to go from there.

Mikey

[admin]

Dan's reply:

It's not the rear main seal even if it does leak. These cars have flywheels that protect you in the event of a clutch exsplosion and oil really won't get all over the clutch plate because all of these pieces are inside of the flywheel. The rotating engine will throw oil off anyway.

Your clutch plate is just worn out and the pressure plate can't put enough force on it to make it hook up. The oil leak is a seperate deal that looks like it's part of this but very likely isn't.

Daniel G Caron

[admin]

Joe's reply:

Hello Mikey,
I think you have two separate problems here. Actually a leaky rear seal will not usually cause slippage on these cars. The clutch assembly is nested in the flywheel and engine oil cannot readily get on the clutch disc or prssure plate surfaces. Oil will find its way ino the bellhousing, but usually runs off without causing difficulties. The rear main seals on Mercedes engines are pinned and the half in the block cannot be changed without removing the crankshaft.
It does sound like your clutch assembly is worn out. It is common for a worn clutch to slip more as it is heated up.
Unless you have a real gusher on your hands you may want to remove the transmission with the idea of replacing the clutch assembly. Closely inspect your old clutch for wear or oil. If wear is the problem clean everything up, replace the clutch assembly and live with the oil leak unless you are ready to remove the engine and crank.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

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Edited by - ja17 on 16 Sep 2004 23:31:55

[Malc]

Just would like to add that you should check the flywheel/clutch face area for any cracks or bad scoring. In the case of the latter you should be able to get the flywheel skimmed to smooth it off otherwise a new clutch pressure plate will wear very quickly.
In the case of the former you must replace it. I have had a flywheel "explode" on a racing mini - it creates quite a mess as well as a "trouser colouring" moment :?
Malc

[n/a]

quote:Originally posted by Malc

Just would like to add that you should check the flywheel/clutch face area for any cracks or bad scoring. In the case of the latter you should be able to get the flywheel skimmed to smooth it off otherwise a new clutch pressure plate will wear very quickly.
In the case of the former you must replace it. I have had a flywheel "explode" on a racing mini - it creates quite a mess as well as a "trouser colouring" moment :?
Malc

Thanks for all of the good info, I'm feeling much better about what's ahead of me.

Mikey