Brake question

[dldubois]

I recently had the car out and upon pulling in my garage noticed smoke pouring out of the rear driver's side wheel well (brakes).  I just took the wheel off to take a look.  With the car in neutral and the parking brake off it barely turns.  I've only got about 1/4" in of pad left.  

Do you think I might have an issue w/ the caliper or could potentially new pads/bleeding address?  :?:

If it is the caliper are these very easy to rebuild?

Dana DuBois

1970 280sl White (050)4spd
1968 Corvette Conv. 4spd
Corinth, TX

[A Dalton]

Try to turn the tire after you crack open the bleeder..
 ..if that frees it up , change the brake flex hose

[dldubois]

Thanks for the idea.  I'll now go give it a try.

Dana DuBois

1970 280sl White (050)4spd
1968 Corvette Conv. 4spd
Corinth, TX

[ja17]

Hello Dana,
I will go along with A Dalton. Brake hoses! If you do not have service hisory on the car just plan on changing all four.


Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio

[A Dalton]

quote:Originally posted by ja17

Hello Dana,
I will go along with A Dalton. Brake hoses! If you do not have service hisory on the car just plan on changing all four.

 Absolutely..All of them ..including the often overlooked clutch slave one . [ if a stick, of course].
 Non returning clutch pedal is a sign of hose swell/collapse.........

[Malc]

Dana,
If you are going to replace your brake hoses may I suggest you use "Aeroquip" style hoses. They are by Goodridge. They are stainless steel braided hoses and "flex" less than regular hoses. THey do make bespoke kits for cars, but will supply individual parts if required.
They make the pedal feel much better. I have used them on my MGA, 2002Tii and my rally car. Very happy with them
Cheers
Malc

[dldubois]

Haven't been able to check yet.  It looks like the bleed screw takes a 9mm wrench.  The one size I'd don't have.   Hopefully we'll find out tomorrow if that is the issues.

Dana DuBois

1970 280sl White (050)4spd
1968 Corvette Conv. 4spd
Corinth, TX

[n/a]

Dana,
This is a typical problem that is easily fixed.  The rubber hoses to the brakes deteriorate over time.  They look okay from the outside, but the inside swells, causing the brake pads to not pull away from the rotor.  Replace the hoses (cheap) and your problem will be solved.
Best regards,
Don

[dldubois]

quote:Originally posted by Don

Dana,
This is a typical problem that is easily fixed.  The rubber hoses to the brakes deteriorate over time.  They look okay from the outside, but the inside swells, causing the brake pads to not pull away from the rotor.  Replace the hoses (cheap) and your problem will be solved.
Best regards,
Don

Thanks Don.
That was the problem.   I ended up replacing all of the hoses.

Dana DuBois

1970 280sl White (050)4spd
1968 Corvette Conv. 4spd
Corinth, TX

[Tom]

Group,

This post was very helpful to me on my project car.  I had no brakes at all.  Thought I would need new calipers, lines, etc.

I bled the back brakes-they bled fine.  Front brakes would not bleed.  Thought it was the metal lines.  I cut the front hose with some snips and they had fused to a solid piece of rubber.  Read this post, replaced the hoses and, voila-I got brakes!

Note for those that replace the hoses-remove the top of the hose first, which allows the bottom hose to rotate freely.  When re-installing, insert the bottom of the hose first, then the top.

The car is pulling to the left when I brake.  Wondering if with more driving the calipers will engage/release better.  Also, since it pulls to the left, does this mean that the right (passenger side) caliper is not functioning as well?

Thanks in advance for ideas.

Best,

Tom


_____________________________________________

1971 280sl Tunis Beige Metallic (restored & enhanced)
1971 280sl Tobacco Brown (low mileage stock)
1970 280sl Deep Red (Project Car)
_____________________________________________

[Malc]

quote:Originally posted by Tom

Group,

The car is pulling to the left when I brake.  Wondering if with more driving the calipers will engage/release better.  Also, since it pulls to the left, does this mean that the right (passenger side) caliper is not functioning as well?

Tom


The right caliper could be "sticky" or slightly seized. One thing to do is to take the pads out and pump the piston out, not all the way!!!! and push it back in afew times, this helps to free them up.
Do one caliper at a time and see if it is easier on one side than the other


Did you change your pads while you were working on the brakes. Old pads maybe glazed, new ones not bedded in yet

You may need to bleed the brakes again, I assume you bled them all including the rears???

Suspect that the dodgy brake hoses were "hiding" a partly siezed caliper.
Hope this helps
Malc

PS Always change your brake fluid every two years unless you use Silicon based stuff....

[Tom]

Malc,

Thanks for the ideas.  I have not replaced the brake pads yet-will take the wheels off this weekend and work on the pads and calipers.  Will also take a look at the rotors.

Best,

Tom

_____________________________________________

1971 280sl Tunis Beige Metallic (restored & enhanced)
1971 280sl Tobacco Brown (low mileage stock)
1970 280sl Deep Red (Project Car)
_____________________________________________

[Cees Klumper]

The 190 SL Group's technical manual strongly recommends using silicone brake fluid, to reduce the chances of rust, brake fade etc.

Cees Klumper in Amsterdam
'69 white 280 SL automatic