Author Topic: Clamps that actually work when replacing rear axle bellows  (Read 6482 times)

perry113

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After self administering some minor head, neck and finger aching while trying to unsuccessfully replace the rear axle bellows clamps with straps and cotter pin clamps supplied by Mercedes Benz I then tried to use these 9mm toggle clamp in place of the cotter pins and failed again. This will absolutely not work if you try to replace the boot with the rear end in the car.

I dug deeper and had to go out of the box to find a conventional Zebra Clamp in the correct 9mm bandwidth that sizes 70-90mm and 100-120mm.

Face it I conformed with a well known authority on W111 W113 that these are the only clamps that work easily. Now my rear axle is finally dry.

You will find you cannot find these clamps anywhere. I ended up buying a plethora of these clamps and can provide to our forum members.

See the below pictures of the junk you can try from Mercedes Benz or the ones I have that you can buy and will work without pain to your brain.
Peter Perry
1970 911T Bahia Red
1972 911T Albert Blau
1963 220seb coupe barn
1965 230SL Light Ivory automatic
1966 230SL Havana Brown 4 speed Barn Find
1970 280SE living 3.5 donor car

Jordan

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Re: Clamps that actually work when replacing rear axle bellows
« Reply #1 on: May 24, 2015, 01:16:18 »
Perry, you should have come to the group for an assist.  Here is a link to a site where you can get all the clamps you need, up to 160-180mm, at the 9mm width.  While located in a different country they aren't that far from you.  http://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?page=search&eSearch1=hose+clamps&eSearch2=

I used the same clamps for my rear axle bellows.
Marcus
66 230SL  Euro 4 speed

perry113

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Re: Clamps that actually work when replacing rear axle bellows
« Reply #2 on: May 24, 2015, 12:00:29 »
Perry, you should have come to the group for an assist.  Here is a link to a site where you can get all the clamps you need, up to 160-180mm, at the 9mm width.  While located in a different country they aren't that far from you.  http://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?page=search&eSearch1=hose+clamps&eSearch2=

I used the same clamps for my rear axle bellows.

I did.
see:
http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=22388.0
Peter Perry
1970 911T Bahia Red
1972 911T Albert Blau
1963 220seb coupe barn
1965 230SL Light Ivory automatic
1966 230SL Havana Brown 4 speed Barn Find
1970 280SE living 3.5 donor car

scoot

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Re: Clamps that actually work when replacing rear axle bellows
« Reply #3 on: May 24, 2015, 16:13:21 »
When I ordered my rear bellows stuff from the Classic Center Tom said to not use the early style clamps because they are impossible to use.  Unfortunately the ones he sent were too large on the big end and I ended up slightly spacing the rubber bellows out with rubber.  Not optimal.  Wish I had have had a better clamp to begin with.
Scott Allen
'67 250 SL (early)
Altadena, California

perry113

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Re: Clamps that actually work when replacing rear axle bellows
« Reply #4 on: May 25, 2015, 01:41:34 »
When I ordered my rear bellows stuff from the Classic Center Tom said to not use the early style clamps because they are impossible to use.  Unfortunately the ones he sent were too large on the big end and I ended up slightly spacing the rubber bellows out with rubber.  Not optimal.  Wish I had have had a better clamp to begin with.

Does it leak or is it dry?
Peter Perry
1970 911T Bahia Red
1972 911T Albert Blau
1963 220seb coupe barn
1965 230SL Light Ivory automatic
1966 230SL Havana Brown 4 speed Barn Find
1970 280SE living 3.5 donor car

scoot

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Re: Clamps that actually work when replacing rear axle bellows
« Reply #5 on: May 25, 2015, 01:57:31 »
Does it leak or is it dry?
It leaks, but I don't know if it
a) I didn't seal the seam on the split boot well enough
b) I over-filled it (with the axles down)
c) might be leaking at the join with the diff.

I figured I didn't want to know the answer.  This is on my 63 220S fwiw.
Scott Allen
'67 250 SL (early)
Altadena, California

perry113

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Re: Clamps that actually work when replacing rear axle bellows
« Reply #6 on: May 28, 2015, 10:56:25 »
It leaks, but I don't know if it
a) I didn't seal the seam on the split boot well enough
b) I over-filled it (with the axles down)
c) might be leaking at the join with the diff.

I figured I didn't want to know the answer.  This is on my 63 220S fwiw.

I know where your coming from as this job can burn up a lot of time and end with the wrong result. Did you use any kind of adhesive on the seam or just the hog ring clamps?
Peter Perry
1970 911T Bahia Red
1972 911T Albert Blau
1963 220seb coupe barn
1965 230SL Light Ivory automatic
1966 230SL Havana Brown 4 speed Barn Find
1970 280SE living 3.5 donor car

scoot

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Re: Clamps that actually work when replacing rear axle bellows
« Reply #7 on: May 28, 2015, 12:11:56 »
I know where your coming from as this job can burn up a lot of time and end with the wrong result. Did you use any kind of adhesive on the seam or just the hog ring clamps?
Superglue gel.
Scott Allen
'67 250 SL (early)
Altadena, California

perry113

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Re: Clamps that actually work when replacing rear axle bellows
« Reply #8 on: May 31, 2015, 14:28:37 »
Superglue gel.

Superglue is the wrong product to use. It's not designed to be oil resistant. You need to use an adhesive sealant that designed to be oil resistant such permatex PX82180
see:
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-black-maximum-oil-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-82180-detail

or another oil resistant sealer.

Since installing the zebra clamps last week I have run the car just under 600 miles and the rear boot is still bone dry :)
Peter Perry
1970 911T Bahia Red
1972 911T Albert Blau
1963 220seb coupe barn
1965 230SL Light Ivory automatic
1966 230SL Havana Brown 4 speed Barn Find
1970 280SE living 3.5 donor car

scoot

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Re: Clamps that actually work when replacing rear axle bellows
« Reply #9 on: May 31, 2015, 14:30:49 »
Superglue is the wrong product to use.
Yeah, I'm going back to the debate on what adhesive to use (if any) -- there is all sorts of opinions and I went with the one that got the best and highest votes from people who did the job.  MB says to not use any adhesive.  Hah.
Scott Allen
'67 250 SL (early)
Altadena, California