9 hours Pagoda work

[batman]

I have 3 problems: 4 broken heater/air levers, speedo that shakes at low speed & a constant metallic rattle somewhere deep within the car. I decided to tackle them this week.

Want to see what the result of 9 hours of Pagoda work dismantling looks like: on the table!

In order I pulled out: drivers seat (30min), underneath dash panels (20min), glovebox (20min), clock (15min), Lighter (20min), Radio (30min), heater/air control unit (150min), windscreen air ducts (30min), floor air duct system(45min), blower (60min). Plus cleaned all parts, cleaned inside dash & rebuilt heater control with new levers & lubed cables  (120min).

Have decided to also change all dash lights (although all work well), take off wood trim to refrub as it looks a bit tired, change both water drainage hoses, put in new foam backing on dash panels and heating system.

[Garry]

Mark,

whilst changing the lights, put in the led’s they are much better and there are a few posts here on the correct ones.

Garry

[Rolf-Dieter ✝︎]

Hi Mark,

Looks well organized and looking at the photos reminded me watching my dad working on his engine rebuild as he cleaned and marked everything on a work bench. I was told not to touch anything.

Good luck with the reassembly, I hope all issues and rattles are resolved once you are done.

[batman]

Thanks Garry.

I have read the various threads & great tech info on LED's and will go with them where I can.

Any ideas on the best place in Melbourne to buy LED's?

[batman]

Rolf-Dieter-

Yes - I took heaps of photos as well.

Taking everything apart is quite job because as well as working in a very small space, in the back of your mind is always the thought that everything is old and potentially easily damaged if forced.

I kept on thinking why Mercedes didn't design the front of the dash somehow so that it is bolted on and thus removable. Moreover, I was astonished how dirty the blower was - full of old foam decomposing, leaves etc. (but still working OK).

Just before dinner tonight I had my first attempt at trying to gain access to the speedo from underneath the dash on the drivers side - is this some sort of joke!!

It seems impossible I couldn't even see the back of the speedo let alone get a hand through a maze of thick and stiff cables and brackets. I need to read the tech manual again.

[batman]

photo of my blower after 47 years and before cleaning

[mbzse]

It seems impossible I couldn't even see the back of the speedo let alone get a hand through a maze of thick and stiff cables and brackets

You need to take the instruments out one by one, start with the Rev counter on the left. Remove the bracket holding two thick contacts under dash first, to give more room to put your hand up from beneath
/Hans in Sweden

[Jonny B]

Indeed the speedo removal and re-install is a test of patience. When I took mine out some years back (squealing from the speedo) I took out the tach, then removed the keeper on the center cluster and was able to move the center unit out a couple of centimeters (be careful with the temp unit as it is a sealed system) and that was enough to allow me to get my hand on the speedo keeper and the knurled nut holding the ground wire, and access to the speedo cable. Putting it back was quite an exercise in patience, but I got it done, it helped that I have relatively small hands.

[Garry]

Hi Mark.

I purchased a whole bunch from the US on line. Pity I am not home as I had some spares that you could have had.  I won’t be back until 1st August if your dash is still apart? Alternatively, take one of the globes to Repco and they may have an equivalent one in LED

Garry

[Larry & Norma]

Hi, I assume you have a RHD Pagoda. I found it easier to remove the steering wheel before
standing on my head to access the instruments! Maybe taking the seat out will help
depending on how large you are?

[batman]

Thanks Larry, yes RHD. (I actually already had the seat out but I have left the steering wheel on).

I think initially I was a bit scared to move the various cables and couldn't find a way in.

On my second attempt I was more forceful in moving aside the thick cabling and opening up enough of a space to get my hands in.

For all those yet to do this instrument removal the key is getting your head in and up into the back of the dash so that you can see the back of the speedo (or tacho for LHD)/central cluster. The outside instrument is easly accessed through the central cluster opening.

[hands_aus]

Hi Mark,
On my RHD 250sl, when accessing the speedo I found that if I moved the wipers to a central position, there was lots more room behind the centre column instruments for my big hands.
I agree about taking the steering wheel off and seat out.
cheers

[Larry & Norma]

I agree with Bob but make sure you turn the ignition off or disconnect the battery, you don't want
the wipers moving while you have your hand is in there

[Naj ✝︎]

 The outside instrument is easly accessed through the central cluster opening.

Are you saying you removed the central cluster before removing the tacho? 

Nice work on the blower unit 

naj

[batman]

Yes. I think I did it in this order on a RHD: the speedo from underneath the dash lying on my back hand up through the myriad of cables, the centre by my left hand through the speedo opening and then the tacho with my left hand through the centre instruments.

[mmizesko]

Mark,

Below is my order for all of the LED's from Super Bright here in the states.  I bought a few extra in case I ruined a couple.  Follow the map on the pic below.  Remember you need to leave a few of the 2w bulbs for impedance purposes.

PRODUCT(S)
Qty    Product/Options    Price/Ea
8    BA9S-W4-90-12V Cool White 90 Degree 12V    2.98
2    BA9S-G4-90-12V Green 90 Degree 12V    2.98
2    BA9S-W-90-12V Cool White 90 Degree 12V    1.98
2    BA9S-B-90-12V Blue 90 Degree 12V    1.98
SubTotal:    $37.72
Shipping:    $2.99
TOTAL:    $40.71
® 2002-2013 Super Bright LEDs Inc.
4400 Earth City Expressway
St. Louis, Missouri 63045-1328


You'll have to ground a couple down with a wheel.  Especially the Clock one, a bunch off the top and below the metal flange.  One of the tach (or speedo) ones is too tight as well and needs to be ground a bit.  You will not be disappointed.

Mike Mizesko
Columbus, OH

[batman]

Thanks Mike.

A question:  The LED replacements for the Speedo & Tacho ( 2 for each instrument) - did you use LED 1 or LED 4 ?

I assumed that as there are 2 bulbs per instrument that LED 1 would be enough as the Superbrightled.com website says it's a straight replacement for a 2w. (or would 2 x LED 4 bulbs be too bright?)

rds
mark

[mmizesko]

Mark,

I used the W4 (quad LED's) in the speedo and tach.  Brighter the better baby!  And I used the 90 degree ones which spread the light around more.  As I mentioned, I did have to grind the side bulges off one of the bulbs but I don't remember if it was in the tach or speedo.

Mike Mizesko
Columbus, OH

[Yem]

Hi Mark,

I bought mine from here (in case you have not already purchased):

http://www.brightlightautoparts.com/

Yem

[batman]

Hi Yem.

I bought a batch of LED's from superbrightleds.com in the US as a friend of mine in the US is visiting me next week.

However, I thought that the 4 x 2w bulbs in the speedo & tacho should be replaced with LED 1 rather than LED 4 that Mike mentioned.

If the LED 1's I got from the US are too dull I will get some LED 4's from brightlightautoparts

thanks

[PIP1947]

Hi Mark. You are brave, indeed. I know this is a job which must, inevitably, be done on my 1968 280sl automatic. My dash lights are very dim and the rheostat is hopeless. I just can't bear the thought of having to disturb all that wiring and remove all,those little screws and nuts - what a nightmare. In my case, it also means dropping the aircon as well - yikes!  I haven't touched this area of the car, as my heater controls still work, but it can't go on forever. I look forward to,hearing more detail on your LED replacements.

Regards

Philip French
January 1968 280sl Auto