Hand Brake Shoes

[Mike K]

I'm presently upgrading the brakes- installing new calipers, brake lines and braided steel hoses.  In the process I've found that the hand brake shoes are worn right down, I have new replacements.

My question- in order to change the hand brake shoes, do I need to disconnect the cable? Or can these shoes be replaced by removing only the springs and adjuster.

I've looked at the Tech Manual, but it's not too clear to me regarding the cable...

Many thanks and best,

Mike

[Mike K]

This is what I'm referring to in the Tech Manual:
http://www.sl113.org/wiki/Brake/EmergencyBrake

[stickandrudderman]

You don't need to disconnect the cable, it stays in the expanding actuator.

[Mike K]

Thank you Colin.

[jameshoward]

You don't need to disconnect the cable, it stays in the expanding actuator.

But the shoes shouldn't be worn at all. Unless you've been letting my wife drive it.

Take a good look at the set up.  Just replacing worn (thin) shoes with expensive new (very thick) shoes without stripping it all is likely to result in a similar problem down the line. Parking brake shoes should in theory last forever.

Unless you let my wife drive.

[Mike K]

Hi James,
Clearly your wife's got hold of my car...!

It looks like at some point in its history the car's been driven with the hand brake engaged. When I took the discs off, the actual pads had cracked and were separated from the metal backing, they fell off.  At approx. €29- for a set of 4  they're worth replacing while I'm busy replacing the the calipers etc. and while everything is off.

I've never done this before and am trying to gauge the level of complication involved in replacing the hand brake shoes.
Everything else I've tackled on the brakes has been straightforward, removing old calipers installing new ones, and bending the new brake pipes into shape.

Best,
Mike

[stickandrudderman]

It is a little fiddly and yet quite brutal at the same time. There are special tools that make it easier but they are not absolutely necessary.
Make sure you back the adjuster off before you try to re-install the disc; if it won't go back on then you will have to start looking at the actuator and cable for seizure.

[Mike K]

Thanks for the feedback Colin -"a little fiddly and yet quite brutal at the same time" - you summed it up perfectly!

I managed to get the whole job done in about 2.5 hours (both wheels) with a pair of long nose pliers, both for releasing and refitting the retaining springs and then fitting the larger holding spring, with the addition at this stage of plenty of brute pulling force on the holding spring, grunting, sweat and appalling swearing ! I also cleaned and then lightly greased the threads and tube of the adjuster as well.

Here's what I found: One of the retaining springs was broken, the RH pads as I mentioned earlier had separated from their backing, someone had attempted to glue them to the backing metal.  
I also noticed what looks like heat discolouration on the RH wheel  hub, probably heating up from the car being driven with the handbrake engaged-  this must have been James' wife....

For anyone attempting to do this job, this tool looks like it could save a great deal of grief-  http://www.amazon.fr/Hazet-797-Pince-ressort-frein/dp/B001CA110A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1438420612&sr=8-1&keywords=hazet+797
I wish I had it, it would have saved sore hands and muscles and a great deal of time- I've just ordered one, in case I ever need to do this job ever again......

Thanks and best,
Mike

[Shvegel]

I think you might find the Hazet spring tool might be frustrating.  With the axle flange so tight to the parking brake shoes it is tough to get the right angle.  I bough a tool similar to the "Harbor Freight" tool mentioned in the Wiki and it works really well.

Before that I used a pair of "Vice Grip" locking pliers which worked well also.  If you can find genuine 'Vice Grip" brand you are better off.  Although Vice Grip moved there manufacturing offshore a few years ago and their quality has suffered they still grip better than any copies I have seen.  

http://airgas.com/product/Tools-%26-Hardware/MRO-%26-Plant-Maintenance/Locking-Clamps-%26-Pliers/p/VIS1402L3?utm_campaign=airgaspl&utm_medium=product_listing&utm_source=google&gclid=CjwKEAjw__atBRDfqe-9voylym8SJAAOBeQ_48e06tej5wVRacDtahyVQfBcn_zg3LOiEu6NhXgYkxoChkfw_wcB#fo_c=306&fo_k=f66e0dd91501eaae14c5e173b894c4ae&fo_s=gplaus

[stickandrudderman]

The hazet tool 4964-1 is the tool that I use.

[Shvegel]

Turns out I own the factory tool and didn't know it.  I received a bunch of old tools years ago in exchange for fixing the suspension on a Citroen SM.  After reading this thread I looked up the tool in my tool catalog and found it in my toolbox. The jaws are offset and come in at an angle so they will fit down in the tight quarters.  

The Hazet tool Stick mentioned is the same as the one I own.

[Mike K]

I acquired both tools, after having done the job with long-nose pliers ,  just to make sure I've got it covered and make it easier, if I ever need to do this job again....