Stuck Ignition Key

[rwmastel]

Hi.  Yesterday I got my key stuck in the ignition.  I very rarely have a problem with turning the key in the ignition.  It would stick an a rare occasion, but one or two wiggels would free it.  Yesterday, when trying to start the car, it stuck between position 1 and 2.  The car was off and the ACC power could just barely be switched on, but I couldn't start the car.  Also, I couln't get the key out.  I finally moved the key and steering wheel in some mysterious combination and it went to position 2 and beyond and started the car.  This was at work.  So when I get home, I try to turn the car off.  It gets stuck between positions 1 and 2 again.  I can just barely get the ACC power to turn off.  So, that's how it sits in my garage.  Key stuck between positions 1 and 2, but just far enough that no power is being used.  I can turn it back and start the car again, but I can't get it out.  Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Rodd
1966 230SL Euro
1994 E420

[graphic66]

My ignition key mysteriously stoped going into the locking column mode. I sat in the car for awhile and just kept working the key  and steering wheel back and forth with the battery unhooked and it started working after a while and has worked fine ever since. I think that I didnt use that mode enough and it siezed a little. It might work on your car. I think I am going to put a little WD40 in the key hole just in case it is thirsty.

[n/a]

David/Rod,
Rather than WD40 I would suggest a graphite lubricant, which is dry. This is the lubricant used by locksmiths.

Regards,
Stan

[rwmastel]

It will be tough to apply WD-40 or graphite lube (I have both) while the key is still in there.  I was looking for suggestions on how to remove the key because my movements of the key & steering wheel have not unlocked it.  Is this going to require removal of the ignition key lock assembly?

Thanks,

Rodd
1966 230SL Euro
1994 E420

[Ricardo]

Rodd
I can't speak to the 113's but I know from another group that talked about 123's and others that would occasionally suffer this problem. It seems, from my memory, that there would be intermittent glitches like yours and this was followed by the major meltdown of a stuck key. Apparently there is no way to release it and it usually had to be drilled out tumblers and all, with a appox.5/8" drill bit to virtually ream out the entire tumbler mechanism and hopefully not damage the rest of the lock ass. or else the whole thing had to be replaced at rather great expense. I don't know if this was an issue with SL's but the 123's have a similar in dash key/wheel lock system.
I really hope this isn't the case with your car as I think the lock ass. was bad enough but the whole ass. was something like $600. An independant MB garage that I use had a 230sl in for a ignition/lock change last year and the garage owner confessed he was hoping to find someone else to change it(he had the new part) as he knew his customer was going to balk at the "whole day" labor chg.,it would take to change it. I think he spoke from the experience of his dads 280SL. I'm sorry I even answered this Rodd, you were probably having a good day 'till now.
Richard V

[Cees Klumper]

Richard - you can edit your own posts after-the-fact - when you look at the top bar above each post, you will see an icon that allows you to do this edit.

[Bob G ✝︎]

Rodd,
I suggest you use Wurth Lock Lubricant Part # 0893-051 U I like this product the best.
Bob Geco

[Bill Rader]

Hi Rodd,
Will the steering wheel lock when you have the key turned as far to the left as possible?
I don't want to sugest this except as a last resort but you could try to remove the whole unit assembly and then see if you get it to move correctly.If so maybe the problem is in the steering column lock.If it still will not switch properly maybe a locksmith could help you out.
Its Just my 2 cents worth (probably all its worth)
Bill

[Ricardo]

Rodd
Well hopefully I can lay to rest some of the nightmare I painted. I talked today with the parts guy at my local MB. He thought there should be 1 or 2 small holes on either side of the key that should allow the tumbler to be extracted by simply pushing in the holes with a paper clip. This is supposed to only work with the key in, I think. He wasn't sure if the 113's were like this but said other models of that vintage were. It should just come out he thought. The price for complete 123 and 4 assemblies with tumblers was between $200-$300 CDN. He thought the tumblers alone would only be $80-90. It was 5.50 p.m. so I didn't ask him to look it up, but he knows his stuff pretty well. He mentioned that some people just buy tumblers and end up coming back for the whole assembly, cause thats where the problem is sometimes. Maybe if yours can be extracted (I haven't looked yet to see if mine have holes) some graphite might get you going again.
Richard V

[hands_aus]

Rodd,
There is a description of how to remove the early and later ignition units in the Haynes manual on page 201 section 30.
Good luck


Bob(Brisbane,Australia)

[ja17]

Hello Rod,
Think of the ignition switch as having three major componants; The electrical switching unit (simply attached to the back of the assembly with three screws, this does all the electrical work), Next is the lock assembly wich is the key and tumbler unit which is removable from the front. Lastly is the steering lock assembly which inserts a pin in the steering column when the key is removed. This requires major dis-assembly (dash guages out etc) to remove.
I agree try a dry lubricant first and as last resort a liquid. Also before you give up clamp down on the key with vice-grips and try to yank it out. The tumbler assembly is removable by turning the key to the first position and removing the inner chrome bezel by pulling outward. Now the trick is to turn the key back off and remove the key to finish removal of this inner chrome bezel. A "e" clip beneath this chrome part holds the tumbler assembly in place.

Joe Alexander
Blacklick, Ohio