Author Topic: Vacuum pipe from booster to intake manifold replacement (found it at Home Depot)  (Read 7217 times)

Pinder

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, NJ, Edison
  • Posts: 1031
During rebuild of my engine I accidentally cracked the plastic pipe from the booster to the manifold. I found what I think is a very good replacement at home depot in the plumbing section they carry a semi transparent whitish colored pipe that has an internall diamiater that is an excact fit and look to the original. It comes in 25 foot lengths in a coil but its was was very reasonably priced at $8.  Hope that helps for anyone wanting to change out there old yellowed hose. Its a shame it didn't come in shorter lengths.
1970 280 SL Light Ivory DB 670. 4 Speed manual shift no AC Limited Slip Diff.
1997 Corvette C5 Silver. automatic
2015 BMW 320i xdrive
2021 Mercedes GLS450 Silver

GGR

  • Inactive
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, DC, Washington
  • Posts: 1470
that pipe needs to be able to hold vacuum without collapsing. Is it the case of the one you found?

Pinder

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, NJ, Edison
  • Posts: 1031
Yes I its flexible but not collapsible. I believe it to be the same material. it is similar to underground sprinkler piping but is the right colour / transparency.
1970 280 SL Light Ivory DB 670. 4 Speed manual shift no AC Limited Slip Diff.
1997 Corvette C5 Silver. automatic
2015 BMW 320i xdrive
2021 Mercedes GLS450 Silver

Raymond

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, FL, Jacksonville
  • Posts: 1206
    • GemstoneMediaInc.com
I'm not a stickler for originality, but are you talking about the line from the rear of the intake manifold to the power brake booster?  That line was not originally transparent.  It is rubber with woven cord on the outside and a check valve and a condensation bottle in line.  The line from the intake to the valve cover breather was translucent.
Ray
'68 280SL 5-spd "California" Coupe

Jonny B

  • Pagoda SL Board
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, CA, San Marcos
  • Posts: 4195
Jon the Merciless (ala Chuck Taylor...) must chime in here. The early 280 SL still had the woven type vacuum line (with the cotter style clamps, the check valve and the condensation bottle. The later cars (don't know the cut off) had the white-ish translucent line from the booster to the vacuum connector on the intake, there is a small check valve, but no condensation bottle.
Jonny B
1967 250 SL Auto, DB 568
1970 280 SL Auto, DB 904
1966 Morris Mini Minor

Pinder

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, NJ, Edison
  • Posts: 1031
Yes thats the one Im talking about . I didnt know if its original or not., from the yellowing its pretty old.  I have a  70 and 69 both have it.
1970 280 SL Light Ivory DB 670. 4 Speed manual shift no AC Limited Slip Diff.
1997 Corvette C5 Silver. automatic
2015 BMW 320i xdrive
2021 Mercedes GLS450 Silver

wwheeler

  • Vendor
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, TX, Dallas
  • Posts: 2898
My concern would be the compatibility of the Home Depot plastic line for the booster vacuum application. The Home Depot plastic material is undoubtedly meant for water exposure. The original plastic booster vacuum line possibly for oil and gasoline fumes. Not sure about plastics but for rubber, water and gas/oil exposure require different materials. Might want to check it out.
« Last Edit: December 29, 2015, 15:34:11 by wwheeler »
Wallace
Texas
'68 280SE W111 coupe
'60 220SE W128 coupe
'70 Plymouth Roadrunner 440+6

Mike K

  • Inactive
  • Silver
  • ****
  • South Africa, Gauteng, Johannesburg
  • Posts: 351
    • Mike Kirkinis
My concern would be the compatibility of the Home Depot plastic line for the booster vacuum application. The Home Depot plastic material is undoubtedly meant for water exposure. The original plastic booster vacuum line possibly for oil and gasoline fumes. Not sure about plastics, but for rubber water and gas/oil exposure require different materials. Might want to check it out.

Agree!
While replacing the fuel injectors recently, I accidentally broke the plastic vacuum pipe at the check valve connection. There were cheaper (most probably inferior) options available. In the end, given that it forms part of a critical function of the braking system, I forked out the $50- to buy the Cohline OEM pipe with all fittings. It's just not worth the risk in order to save a few $$.

Best,
Mike
« Last Edit: December 30, 2015, 10:08:47 by Mike K »
Feb. 1971 Mercedes 280SL Auto  LHD (Last of W113 Series)
Aug. 1989 Mercedes R107 300SL RHD (Last of R107 Series)
http://michali.zenfolio.com
http://www.lebombo-safaris.com

Pinder

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, NJ, Edison
  • Posts: 1031
Thats interesting. I always thought they came with the clear pipe not black.
1970 280 SL Light Ivory DB 670. 4 Speed manual shift no AC Limited Slip Diff.
1997 Corvette C5 Silver. automatic
2015 BMW 320i xdrive
2021 Mercedes GLS450 Silver

Pinder

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, NJ, Edison
  • Posts: 1031
Autohauz has a good price for the OEM line for around $35 with check valve and new ends.
1970 280 SL Light Ivory DB 670. 4 Speed manual shift no AC Limited Slip Diff.
1997 Corvette C5 Silver. automatic
2015 BMW 320i xdrive
2021 Mercedes GLS450 Silver

Benz Dr.

  • Associate Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • Canada, ON, Port Lambton
  • Posts: 7220
  • Benz Dr.
I'm not a stickler for originality, but are you talking about the line from the rear of the intake manifold to the power brake booster?  That line was not originally transparent.  It is rubber with woven cord on the outside and a check valve and a condensation bottle in line.  The line from the intake to the valve cover breather was translucent.


 The early cars had a metal PCV line which often became rusty and plugged up. Later ones were black plastic or at least all the ones I've seen so far.
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC

Tomnistuff

  • Full Member
  • Gold
  • *****
  • Canada, Qc, Levis
  • Posts: 946
While we're on this vacuum line subject, i.e., line, check valve, water separator, connector at booster, I have another rant and a question for the experts.

I've seen somewhere here, a couple of comments regarding the color of the right angle connector at the booster.  My late 1966 230SL has a white connector with built-in check valve (but badly painted black), so it's probably not original.  The line also has a long cylindrical check valve, not a little black and white flying saucer or spinning top shaped check valve, in the line between the white water separator and the intake manifold vacuum fitting.  Two check valves in series sounds to me to be a little paranoid (over-kill), so I assume someone wanted it to function and look right in the absence of correct parts.

The EPC part number for the booster vacuum line connector on my late 66 230SL is A 000 430 36 81 and is black without a check valve built in (I just bought one from Authentic Classics).  There was a very, very early change but I can find no photo of the early one and it was changed to the 000 430 36 81 about 10,000 cars before mine was built, so that doesn't explain why mine was white with a check valve, unless it came from another car.

The in-line check valve EPC part number is A 000 431 35 07 and shows up on the Authentic Classics site as the little black and white flying saucer or spinning top type, not the longer cylindrical type like mine (which is on all the early MB corporate 230SL photos).  I hate it when they do that (change the part without changing the part number). 

This appears to be another one of those curses that have settled on me since I've been trying to reconcile the EPC, the BBB, the parts suppliers' parts catalogs, the logical function of the car and the way my car was built (or repaired sometime in the past).  This problem is confusing like that recent 230SL glove box hidden vs visible inside screw head conflict between the BBB and what everyone but me knows is right, or the other recent 230SL Clutch Fluid Reservoir Fill Cap Correctness conflict between the EPC, original 230SL factory photos, and the BBB.  I'm talking about the ribbed vs scallopped and black vs white reservoir fill cap.

These things started out as me thinking my car was repaired with incorrect parts sometime in its past, but now I'm almost convinced that Mercedes Engineering in the 1960s were their own worst enemy when it came to keeping track of what parts they were building their cars with.  This seems to be a three way battle among the EPC, the BBB and Mercedes Sales Brochure photos.

Does anyone have a good handle on the various iterations of brake booster vacuum hose design, including the hose(s), check valve(s), water separator and booster connector?

Tom Kizer


Apparently late 1966 230SL 4-spd manual (Italian Version)
Owned since 1987 and wrapping up a full rotisserie restoration/modernization.
Was: Papyrus White 717G with Turquoise MBtex 112 and Kinderseat
Is: Dark Blue 332G with Dark Blue Leather (5300, I think)

Pinder

  • Full Member
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, NJ, Edison
  • Posts: 1031
Well. I guess I opened up a can of worms.  still interesting to note that both the 69 and 70 280 SL that I have had originally when I purchased them the semi-transparent pipe (that is very yellowed.
1970 280 SL Light Ivory DB 670. 4 Speed manual shift no AC Limited Slip Diff.
1997 Corvette C5 Silver. automatic
2015 BMW 320i xdrive
2021 Mercedes GLS450 Silver

Shvegel

  • Inactive
  • Platinum
  • ******
  • USA, OH, Cleveland Heights
  • Posts: 2978
Lots different polyethylene types in the world.  I would rather trust Mercedes to pick one.