Looking for opinions on a 68 280SL that I'm considering...

[mackthomas]

Hello all,
I'm new to the group, hopefully soon to be new to pagoda ownership after just 30 years of planning. Thanks to all for this amazing source of information.
Although I'm in Texas, I'm looking at a particular car in Washington and wanted to post the photos to see what expert opinions you might have. They're mighty pretty, but I'm looking for more educated, critical eyes to not get so dreamy over some really swank dealer photography.
{Through reading the group archives, I saw that member Craig had offered 10 years ago to examine in person an SL at the same dealer where this particular car is located. I wrote to see if I could take him up on his 10 year old offer made to someone else He's going to try to take a look sometime this week. Amazing.}

What do you guys think?

1968 280SL
4-speed euro spec
94,802 KM
"The car was originally bought new in Europe and was imported to Canada in 1969 and has been there since.  The car underwent a full bare-metal restoration in 2005 in Canada.  The current consignor has had the car for about 2 years and since then has had the cylinder head fully rebuilt, new timing chain and guides, radiator removed and fully flushed and the shifter bearings were replaced.  A compression test was also done at that time showing 100 PSI across the board. The car was inspected in July of 2015 by the Ministry of Transportation and Infrastructure in BC and checked out perfectly with no safety concerns noted." -from dealer email

Here are links to the undercarriage shots. I'm a bit worried that the frame rail looks spongy, but can't tell...

https://www.flickr.com/photos/parkplaceltd/albums/72157664060194769

Gratefully,
Mack Thomas
Austin, Texas

[mackthomas]

Additional photos.

[mackthomas]

Additional photos.

[badali]

The rocker area and the rail under the trunk have potential to be very bad.  The hidden rust beyond the undercoating could turn into a major project.  Definitely need a personal look at this one.

[Cees Klumper]

If you can see evidence of the 'full bare metal restoration' that would be worth a lot, depending on the quality as far as it can be determined (who did the work and how). 100 PSI is really bad for engine compression? Good luck, much comes down to the price.

[Jonny B]

All the paint work/undercoat/whatever under the hood is a bit scary. That should all be body color, so the closer look as Brad indicated is most definitely warranted. Would hop on the same wagon as Cees, the 100 psi for the compression is pretty poor.

[Tyler S]

As others mentioned, 100psi is not a good number. It is possible this check was done before the repair? Your approaching this the right way. Having someone who knows what to look for inspect the car. When the seller lists the checks they have done you want to re-do these checks and verify them for yourself. The undercoating on the inner fender wells needs to be investigated further.

[Kayvan]

100 PSI has to be a typo

-Crumbling rust under left jack point
-Rust under chrome trim over left jack point
-Rust on frame right side near rear suspension arm
-Front calipers ruststains; ie, moisture in brake system; system leaking; master/slave cylinder suspect
-Muffler and pipes rusted gone
-Visual rust in dozen places undercarriage; unlikely in ANY ground up restoration
-Rear differential wet; leaking
-Rust stain on white body paint at seams
-Rust staining on oil pan, fuel pump, transmission pan; could be rock damage or leaking.
-ALL rubber bushings/pads are dry rotted, split, swollen or failing.
-Very dirty; even a basic steam cleaning would improve this.

NONE of above should occur in a 10yr restoration..even a 20yr unless driven in Canadian snows daily!
 
Hire a a qualified classic car expert to do a $200-500 PPI (Pre_Purchase inspection) 1-1.5hrs with documented write up (min 1-3 pages) of ALL major subsystems

Tests:

-Compression test of all 6 cylinders (min 175psi)
-Pressure test/leak down of radiator
-Pressure test of head gasket for leaks/dried white trails of coolant
-Lab analyse oil
-Magnet for paintwork
-Under carriage "poking" to see rust
-test drive: transmission shifting; braking (pulling side/side); temp qauge & oil pressure guage

Collectibility/Rarity

I'am sure I will be flamed for this; but white is a common color; some people love it, especially the 1960s female target market for this car (eg, Doctor Husband buys S class and buys Wife SL for Tennis Club). 

However, there were 43,912 SL's made and 100s for sale today and Silver, Black, Navy, Red, Bordeaux, Metallic colors from light blues (ice blue), to anthracite, to golds, coppers even greens from thistle (ice green) to classic BRG (Dark Olive Green...Mine!) are quite iconic. I am not a fan of the whites, battleship grey, beiges, baby blue, browns.  Many of us bought the only SL that was in front of us at the time, and in retrospect still love the Classics DB180 Silver with Red Leather, Black Top OR Triple Black or OR Dark Olive Green with Cognac, Tan Top!

This is white with an after market Cognac interior, and rug that looks wrong contrast, with chrome wheel arches that guarantee rust, glue, drill holes or water spots underneath.

Most, people do less research on a $75,000 classic car than a $75 Microwave oven.

Walk and buy a truly iconic SL....there are 100s out there.
 

[mackthomas]

I can't thank you guys enough. Comparing the lists here to the photos, I can see some of the things I didn't before----I really appreciate the info. I'm taking this to my next evaluation!
Onward
Mack

[Rolf-Dieter ✝︎]

Hi Mack,

You got some great tips here from Fellow Members .... In our Tech Manual is a "Check List" you should have on hand when you look and inspect for the Pagoda of your choice. I will provide the link below. Let me know if you can open the link. I recommend you print it out and use it in your evaluation. I did use it with great success before I purchased mine. This has been prepared by very knowledgeable members of our site.

Some info in our Tech Manual is only available to Full Members, so let me know if you can open this or not.

Link here ---> http://www.sl113.org/wiki/Buying/PrepurchaseEvaluation

[Peter van Es]

He can. Only if the words Restricted are in the URL access is limited to Full Members only...

[jameshoward]

100 PSI has to be a typo

 
Hire a a qualified classic car expert to do a $200-500 PPI (Pre_Purchase inspection) 1-1.5hrs with documented write up (min 1-3 pages) of ALL major subsystems

Tests:

-Compression test of all 6 cylinders (min 175psi)
-Pressure test/leak down of radiator
-Pressure test of head gasket for leaks/dried white trails of coolant
-Lab analyse oil
-Magnet for paintwork
-Under carriage "poking" to see rust
-test drive: transmission shifting; braking (pulling side/side); temp qauge & oil pressure guage


Most, people do less research on a $75,000 classic car than a $75 Microwave oven.

Walk and buy a truly iconic SL....there are 100s out there.

Some of this is great advice; some of it goes too far in my opinion. Lab work on oil and 175 PSI at a minimum could well lead you up the garden path. If you don't know the cars, I agree getting an expert to look at it is essential. But if, say, a compression test comes back with around 140-150 PSI I wouldn't run away. There should be uniformity across all 6 cylinders. There will be plenty of cars on this forum running perfectly well at far lower PSI readings than 175.

Go on condition. The major expenditure will be on chrome, getting rid of rust, etc. Whilst engine parts are by no means cheap, putting a rusty car back on the road is a significant expense.

[PIP1947]

Hi Mark

I would forget this particular car. Black paint in engine compartment is a dead giveaway that all is not as it should be, either due to accident damage or colour change. The after market interior is also less than desirable and the compressions are very poor indeed. This car will cost a lot of money to fix, even before you uncomfortable ver all the rust!

Pip194
1968 280SL

[kampala]

Mark,

You're in Texas --- and there's someone from this forum in Texas who is considering selling.   I know it's a BIG state, but its closer than Seattle.

Even though the topic says 230, the car in question is a 280.


http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=23883.0

[Garry]

Like others here, I agree that that car is highly unlikely to have had a bare metal restoration in 2005.  No one doing that would paint job in the engine bay like the example has been painted and that alone without photographic evidence of the whole job would make me very very wary.

Here is another that is for sale from a forum member. Unless of course you have fallen into the "280 only" myth and trap for the uninitiated.

http://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=23777.0