Head Removal. To proceed or not to proceed

[Tyler S]

Just a few progress photos. Looks like tomorrow may be the day. Need to install the fan and radiator. Add fluids, plugs, cap, and ign wires. Going with the blue MBZ coolant and Febi green power steering fluid. Castrol 20w50 with Lucas break in additive for the cam and valve train. After I get it dialed in, I am definitely going to pull the injector lines, linkage and coolant pipes and have them re-plated. Their poor finish really throws all the other work out the window.
Tyler

[Jonny B]

Looking grand!!

Febi green power steering fluid - had not seen that before, had to look it up. Mineral or synth?

[Tyler S]

Jonny, Going with the mineral based. Have no idea if my seals would handle the synthetic. Plan on changing it regularly anyway.
I have read a few articles about the use if ATF in power steering. It is known that ATF can cause excessive wear in power steering components and degrade hoses. Which is why most auto manufacturers have stopped using it. The additive package in ATF has a friction modifier for the clutches, which steering components don't have. It is also semi corrosive.
Tyler

[Pinder]

looking really. good.

[Tyler S]

Mission Accomplished!!!!    Links to 3 small video clips I took after its first start.      Last set of photos below.
A couple minor issues such as running out of hose clamps and forgetting I stole the gas out of the tank for my boat!
It starts extremely fast now. Even when hot or after a 30 minute hot soak. I attribute this to the upgraded starter, corrected cam timing and better compression. The new starter is the biggest improvement to starting I think, Along with new battery cables. It is a lot quieter even thought I still need to go back in and re-torque the head bolts and adjust the valves. Oil pressure is excellent. Goes right to 45 when starting hot. Engine heats up much faster, I did replace the thermostat. Cam has been broken in @ 2500 rpm for 10 minutes. I will break it in further after final valve adjustment. Overall I am very happy. Just a few minor cosmetic issues to deal with. I will report back after its first drive! 
Tyler
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0SC63E4SVjY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nMA_5nO9uIk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3Q8ss0ebew

[kampala]

Well done!   Thanks for the videos and keeping us updated on the process.  That first drive should put a massive grin on your face.  Enjoy.

[erickmarciano]

Great writeup
Should I use a ball hone to make a couple of passes while I am there?
Thanks

[Tyler S]

Erick, Unless your replacing the rings and the cylinders are within spec and are not tapered or out of round, then leave it alone. You could make things worse. If your replacing the rings and your within spec then use a rigid hone. Those ball hones are garbage. You will never be able to tell where the cylinder wall low and high spots are and how far you need to take it.

[ja17]

Ball hones work great on newly bored cylinders. Using a rigid hone to true-up worn cylinders is just wishful thinking. Hones are used basically for de-glazing the cylinder walls so new rings wear-in (break-in). However always remove the upper wear ridge with a ridge-reamer when installing new rings only. Installation of nice new round piston rings into oval-worn cylinders is a formula for disaster. You will certainly make things much worse if this is the case.

 Yes I agree with Tyler, no need to de-glaze the cylinders if you are not installing new piston rings.  That would cause additional ring wear on rings which are already broken-in.

[Tyler S]

Re-torqued the cylinder head bolts last night and adjusted the valves this am. Took it for a spin. Runs excellent! Minor exhaust leak at one of the flanges but nothing major. Will try to cinch them up a little more. No coolant or oil leaks. Pulls a lot stronger at part throttle load. Did I already mention how well it starts!?!?  Going to take it on a good long run after the hood goes back on. Then a nice bath.
So this is pretty much it for me with my repair on this thread. Will post if somthing comes up. I may move the videos above to my other youtube channel but will change the links accordingly.
Thanks all for tagging along 
Tyler

[wwheeler]

Eric,

Water in the combustion chamber can also cause the pitting in the piston top.

For the record, here is a picture of the damage caused by corrosive combustion gases that resulted from a leaking head gasket. This also had a piece of something that hit the piston and the head, but that is another story. The moral to this is that if you know you have a head gasket leak, get it fixed pronto or your head will look like this. 

[Benz Dr.]

That kind of damage can be repaired by welding in with aluminium. It's not as bad as it looks.