Head Removal. To proceed or not to proceed

[Tyler S]

I am having one of those indecisive "Well I minus well since I'm in there" moments.
I have already removed the intake and exhaust manifolds to fix a minor exhaust leak. This is usually the hardest part of head removal anyway so I am contemplating moving forward with head removal to inspect/rebuild the valve train. There really aren't any issues with compression or the head gasket. Just the occasional (very light) puff of smoke after days of not being started. I have 74k miles on the engine and from what I have read the valve guides will/should be due soon. The head has never been off the engine. I will be adding a few hundred bucks at the minimum for the head gasket, coolant etc..plus machine work if necessary. I already have a stash of all the other gaskets, hoses, water pump, timing chain, tensioner, cam sprocket, copper washers, and valve stem seals. There is some apparent wear on the valve stems (see pic) but without removal there is really no way to properly measure the guides and valves. There is not much left in the way of removal. Coolant (messy), Valve cover, Rockers, camshaft, Injection lines. This will also give me the opportunity to inspect the cylinder bore's condition as well as a really good cleaning. Original red engine block paint can be seen under all the dirt and grime. One thing that always makes me nervous is removing the hood. Do I open a potential "Pandora's Box" or put it back together and run it. Cost and my labor v.s. Piece of mind. What would you do?
P.S. If I do decide to move forward, I'll take you all along for the ride...
Tyler

[Tyler S]

This is what started it all. Leaking exhaust manifold gasket. It can sound just like valve train noise.
Tyler

[Benz Dr.]

I think you could leave the hood on if you want to. Not much left to take the head off at this point.

[wwheeler]

Messy coolant change? I bought this 7 or 8 years ago and has worked perfectly. Never a drop on the ground during a coolant change. And the valve has never leaked a drop.

This is the model number is used for the 280SE: F316 L Website below. They only mention as an oil drain but because there are no rubber parts, just brass and stainless, the coolant application works as well. I installed this on the lower right side of the block in place of the plug. 
http://www.fumotousa.com/

I like this better than the older solid brass screw valve used on the early 60s cars. This one has a safety catch which makes it virtually impossible for it to open accidentally. Just a thought.

[catjim813]

Tyler, if she is a frequent driver you will continue to drive it, the time will come in my eyes, its pay me now or pay me later.  You are so close to getting it done I would go for it.  But from the help all of you have to give me for my projects it really depends on your time you want to invest.  my two cents anyway.  Thanks for the help on my injection pump.

[stickandrudderman]

Definitely do it. You will regret it otherwise.

[Tyler S]

I think I may go for it. Start fresh in the am. I'm going to stew on it if I don't. I'll spend the rest of today looking for a good machine shop that knows the nuances of these engines. Last thing I want is my head shaved below spec or my pistons and valves to "Bump Knuckles"

Wallace, That looks like a good idea. Will be a mess this time around but good for future changes. I wonder if that could be put into the oil cooler as well or if that's a little too sketchy.

[66andBlue]

Hi Tyler,
if you have the space to store the hood safely then my suggestion is to take it off, much easier to work around the engine bay.
I'll be happy to give you a hand, just let me know.

[Tyler S]

Alfred, Thanks much! I think I may pull the radiator and have it serviced so will be a definate. Another "while im in there" job. If im replacing all the hoses, water pump, thermostat, etc.. Why leave a weak link.

[Rolf-Dieter ✝︎]

Hi Tyler,

With all the work you plan to do you should take Alfred up on his offer to give you a hand with the hood removal. You certainly will not regret doing so. 

You will have, as you know so much more room to do the work with the hood removed. However, if you elect not to remove the hood be sure to make and attach (what some of us call the best tool in our tool kit) a softener for the hood lock engagement so when your head comes in contact with the lock mechanism it won't hurt so much

Good Luck.


Dieter

PS. Do take photos others will benefit from it. As you know a picture is worth a 1000 words.

[Tyler S]

Thanks Dieter, yes the hood will be coming off. Going to remove and service the rad and water pump.
Now to find a place to store it. My garage has accumulated too much stuff.
I'm thinking put the hard top back on the car and use the rolling hardtop storage rack. Can move it far far away while working.

[Jonny B]

Tyler, if you need another hand, just let me know. I have done the hood removal before and the radiator removal and the hose replacement and a power steering pump replacement........

[Tyler S]

Thanks guys. The last time I had my hood off I had my neighbor help me. Lets just say it was man-handled a bit much. Having both people familiar with how it works is key.

[Tyler S]

Well we have liftoff. No major issues with removing the head. I am liking what I see so far. Standard size Mahle (81.98mm) pistons. Cylinder bore's are semi-smooth with no major scratches and minimal ridge. Cylinder Head thickness is 84.94mm. Cylinder's 5 and 6 look to have been running a bit leaner than the rest. Looks like cylinder 3 is the slight oil burning cylinder, bit of ash on the valves. I am contributing this to a valve guide/seal as there was a small amount of oil hanging around on top of the intake valve.  A small head gasket failure between a water jacket and head bolt. This led to some corrosion in the head and a stiff head bolt, but minimal. So nothing major to report!  Next step will be to position the head on its side and add some paint thinner to the ports and check for valve leaks.
Tyler

[Tyler S]

second set of photos.

[66andBlue]

... I think I may pull the radiator and have it serviced . ....

Are you getting a new high efficiency core also? Let us know when you find a good repair shop, they seem to have all disappeared here.

[Benz Dr.]

What was your compression numbers for this engine? If you have a pic showing all of the pistons that would be helpful but it looks like number one cylinder has a fair amount of blow by.

[Tyler S]

Albert, Yes if I can find someone, Your right about them drying up. I used to use Cal's radiator on Balboa in Pacific Beach. Long since closed up. There's no market for them anymore. Everything out there is plastic tanks now. Not repairable. Plus C.A.R.B and OSHA didn't help.

Dan, My readings were all 170-175 with the exception of Cyl #3 which was at 160. And thinking the culprit is the valves. #3 is the worst offender (see Pic). But your right, even looking at the picture of the head you can see #1 is dark. Put the head on its side and poured some Kingsford into the ports. All the valves marked in yellow are leaking to some degree from a little to a lot. That's 8 out of 12.

Well, going to strip it down, take it in, and get some numbers.
Tackle the hood removal and cooling components while its being worked on.
Then a big cleanup!
Still looking for a local shop familiar with these. May give Onager a call in the am.
Tyler

[66andBlue]

I have used Kinch's Radiator & AC when they were located in Escondido, they have now moved to Murrieta.
Unfortunately recent comments are somewhat mixed.

[Tyler S]

So after enough calls to local shops to make my ear hurt, I have decided to send my Head up to Metric. A little more expensive with shipping and all but the last thing I want is this hacked together or having to question everything another shop did.

Thanks Alfred, I'll be buzzing you later in the week for a hand with the hood

[66andBlue]

Have you talked to these guys?
http://motorworkssd.com/

[Benz Dr.]

Any areas on a piston that are clean and free of carbon usually indicate some amount of blow by. Number 1 on the head is much darker than the others which may indicate the presence of oil in that cylinder even though the compression numbers are good.

[Tyler S]

Dan, In image 3531 above you can see #1 piston before I wiped it off. There is a slight clean spot in the upper right corner of the piston. They all had it in the same area but #1 was the most pronounced. Being on the right side of the engine, this would be the "unloaded" side of the piston during compression stroke?
When the engine was running there wasn't much blow-by with oil cap removed. Would slightly move a tissue placed over the opening but it was more of an in and out pulse. I am planning to change the pan gasket so should I pull 1 piston I can get to just to have a look at the rod bearings and rings? Will give me a general idea of health of the rest.  I have an inside Mic coming in the mail to check the bore for taper and round.

Alfred, Yes I saw them as well. Around the same price. They are backed up a bit.
Tyler

[Benz Dr.]

I've been told to look at the top outer edge of the piston which would be just above the top compression ring. I guess the blow by gasses will wash the piston clean to the point it looks new. Without taking everything apart there's no real way to determine what kind of wear you have.
Cylinder condition is about half of the story. Having a look at number 1 piston can't hurt.

[ja17]

Yes Dan, he is catching on fast!