Wiring questions 71' 280sl late model

[Autobob]

We are trying to tie up loose ends...
Two wires in a boot which most likely goes to the thermal time switch it is #1 in photo, #2 and #3 in photo are single push on connectors. All three go through a ring #4 on LH fender. Any ideas?

2nd photo shows two small eyelet wire connectors at top red arrow they go into harness at lower arrow. Idea on where these may go?

I am going to owe a lot of people beers.   
Bob

[Tyler S]

I don't know about the push on connectors. But the bottom picture- Ballast Resistors?
Pull back the sheathing a little bit and get the wire colors, Would really help.
Tyler

[mnahon]

#1 wires in the boot are definitely for the thermo time switch. You can tell because the connectors are different sizes. The TTS has two different size connectors so they can't be reversed.

[Jonny B]

The push on connectors look to be a later add on. Could they connect to the transistor unit under the battery to allow for the dwell to be read with this later type unit? I have a single wire running from mine to about the same spot. Mine had a small fray at the connector and if that grounds out, the car stops.

[ja17]

Yes, thermo time switch on the two in the boot, One push-on (the longest) should go to the temperature sensor on the thermostat housing. The other may go to a temperature sensor on the oil filter housing or block on these late engines.

[Autobob]

Looks like we will do the conversion TTS and a new boot. There is a single pole switch in block by the oil filter so one connector will go there. Is the 71' SL supposed to have a temp switch in top of t-stat housing? I have it plugged but also have a new switch for it. The switch from World Pac stated for electric fan which we do not have but perhaps the labeling is incorrect and as Joe stated one of the wires should go to top of t-stat housing. Thank you all, Bob

[kampala]

The temperature sensor on the Thermostat Housing only works if you have maintained the distributor vacuum system.  By this I mean, if you still have the two-way valve and associated systems that controls the vacuum from the throttle body to the distributor.

From what I understand, the sensor on the thermostat housing comes into play to help cool the engine once it reaches about 100C (maybe wrong on the exact temp).  Once this threshold is reached, the temp sensor triggers and the two-way valve will change the vacuum to the distributor and the distributor will advance, hence raising the idle RPM to help cool the engine. 

[Jonny B]

Yes, my understanding it is a 100C switch, as Oz has typed.

[Autobob]

Helpful information thank you. I have the factory large service manual but it must be an earlier edition as it does not seem to show 71' well. Attached photo show the vacuum switch that I believe you are referencing. It has two vacuum ports on the bottom. I am guessing one port goes to the distributor retard pot and the other goes to one of the two small throttle body ports. Can you tell me which TB port to use one is on fender RH other port is LH drivers or engine side. Also does it matter which port on bottom of valve goes to the TB or Dist. Thank you, Bob

[Tyler S]

Vacuum Retard setups always get vacuum at Idle. (Port after throttle plate, intake side)...
Vacuum Advance setups get "ported" vacuum (Port before throttle plate, air filter side)

I dont think it matters which vacuum port on the valve goes where. Its just that. A valve.

[kampala]

This will help you quite a bit. 

http://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/EmissionControlSystem

The vacuum line runs from the Right side (next to fender) throttle body to the two-way valve.   

The other vacuum port on the throttle body (left side) typically goes to the vacuum dashpot that sits directly under the throttle body and raises the idle when an Automatic is put into gear.   See the linkage tour as Joe shows this quite clearly. 

[Autobob]

First start today went great. We grounded the W terminal on TTS and it did not take long for the pipes to bleed and the engine to start. We broke it in for 20 minutes at 2,000 rpm, it sounds great, idles well, doesn't smoke or leak and moves with out anyone pushing or pulling it! Only issue we had was when we vacuum tested the coolant system the heater control valve has a very small leak so we bypassed it as we were anxious for the first start. Need to investigate changing the valve now, looks like a tough spot. Heater core itself seems ok. Thanks guys for your help. Bob