Author Topic: Warm engine starting  (Read 20512 times)

Charles 230SL

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Re: Warm engine starting
« Reply #50 on: July 22, 2016, 17:43:40 »
thanks much Wallace,
I'll remove the solenoid as soon as I source material for the gasket. I'll trial-and-error the rod adjustments to reduce the initial over-fueling. thanks again, Charles

wwheeler

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Re: Warm engine starting
« Reply #51 on: July 22, 2016, 18:15:09 »
So I guess you discovered that with the solenoid disconnected, your hot starts were better?

The best gasket material is called diaphragm material and has a very thin layer of fabric in the middle of the rubber outer layers. It will still be 1/32" thick. Hard to find but maybe McMaster has it. The fabric will not allow the rubber to "squeeze" out when compressed.

From the Pacific Fuel rebuild, my solenoid rod measured 1.890" from the metal base to the top of the rounded nut when the rod is bottomed out. I discovered that a 1.750 rod dimension will not engage the rack. so it seems it may only move the rack about 1/8"? Seems too little but that is what I got and maybe not totally accurate. Yes, the rod stroke is much longer, but it has to depress the spring loaded lever before contacting the rack. Let me know what initial measurement you came up with. 
Wallace
Texas
'68 280SE W111 coupe
'60 220SE W128 coupe
'70 Plymouth Roadrunner 440+6

Charles 230SL

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Re: Warm engine starting
« Reply #52 on: July 22, 2016, 18:59:23 »
yes, hot starts were better with the solenoid disconnected but I can tell that a 'slightly' richer start (but NOT as rich as with the solenoid connected) would be better.

I'll let you know what the initial rod measurement is once I remove the solenoid, and what the final measurement is following adjustment.   

Incidentally, I've got an early R11 pump and all else has been sorted out (CSV jets spray correctly, 1 sec time switch and TTS are good).

Charles 230SL

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Re: Warm engine starting
« Reply #53 on: July 23, 2016, 13:32:26 »
I removed the solenoid but unfortunately, the rod appeared to have been adjusted (actually maladjusted) some time in the past so I can't attest to what it was leaving the factory.

The rod measured 13/32 (1.09375) from the metal base to the top of the cone nut, which was over-fueling during hot start. I adjusted the rod back to 11/32
(a reduction of only 1/16 inch) which is where it is today. The hot start has improved - but it could still be better. 

I'll leave it as is for a couple days before adjusting the rod back a little further - it doesn't take much!

wwheeler

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Re: Warm engine starting
« Reply #54 on: July 24, 2016, 19:13:34 »
My pump is a later versions and very well could be a different rod adjustment. The good news is that you see improvement. You are correct, doesn't take much to change quite a bit.
Wallace
Texas
'68 280SE W111 coupe
'60 220SE W128 coupe
'70 Plymouth Roadrunner 440+6