Author Topic: 280sl restoration  (Read 57653 times)

Howard Long

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Re: 280sl restoration
« Reply #75 on: October 29, 2016, 15:05:02 »
Joel,

Your hood looks a lot like mine.  I have not started on the hood yet but I know that it has so many layers of paint and body filler that it was way to heavy for the spring to support it and I had to use a piece of wood to securely hold the hood open.  About 4 years ago I had a battery charger on to charge the battery and the hood closed on the electrical cord.  That caused a patch of paint to break loose so that I could see just how thick the paint was.  I attached a photo of the place on the edge of the hood where it shows the many layers.

I was considering having the aluminum pieces cleaned by a gentle blasting process like Soda but if you are sanding the hood maybe I should reconsider.  I know that warping is a problem, it that why you cleaned the hood by sanding or did you have other reasons.

Do you use a different epoxy primer for aluminum or do you use the same primer on steel?

Joel

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Re: 280sl restoration
« Reply #76 on: October 30, 2016, 06:58:33 »
Howard,

After 3 kg of paint and filler the Hood is in a very good condition, just 2 small dents. Up to now the best panel of the car. ;D

I have no experience with soda blasting but the company that blasted the body use a gentle method called soft blasting (at low pressure I think)  they say it is no problem with aluminum.

But I do not take a risk and do it myself. I use a 3m scotch brite xt-rd disc to take 80 to 90% off than  p60 sandpaper then p 80 and p100. Only time-consuming.

I use Standox and Glasurit epoxy and according to what they have explained to me it is good on aluminum.

Joel

Howard Long

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Re: 280sl restoration
« Reply #77 on: October 31, 2016, 16:40:36 »
Joel,

That is good to know that you did not trust any blasting on the hood.

Do you plan to prepare your doors and the trunk lid in the same manner? 

I have a media blaster that I have been using to clean most steel  parts that I have removed, front suspension, rear axle and miscellaneous other parts.  I have done everything in my basement garage and I do not have spray paint equipment. I have used paint products from Eastwood in aerosol cans for both rust treatment and finish paint.  I have about 70% of parts prepared to reassemble.

Because some misguided owner or body shop had the car undercoated (which really stops the media blaster), I have spent hours and hours removing all that gunk with scrapers and wire brush just to determine where the rust was and what sheet metal parts needed to be replaced.  I realize that I could not find all the rust this way so I plan to send the body out for complete media blasting after I complete the sheet metal work. Unless there is other major rust found,my plan is to have a body shop spray the body with epoxy primer and then finish paint the inside, underneath and inside the trunk before I bring the body home to reassemble and get it running. 

When I have the mechanicals worked out, I will send the assembled car back to the body shop for final paint on the exterior, hood, doors, trunk lid and hard top.   Maybe an odd plan but I really did not know I was going to get this deep into the sheet metal on this project until I was well into the job.

I have a long way to do but it has been a great project to work on.  As a retired mechanical engineer and airline pilot, the sheet metal work has been one challenge after another, sometimes stopping me dead in my tracks until I find a way to move to the next challenge. Very rewarding on the whole.

Howard
71 280SL 4-speed

Joel

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Re: 280sl restoration
« Reply #78 on: October 31, 2016, 18:58:47 »
Yes the doors and thrunk lid has bin done the same way. The underside of the car was also undercoated but its scraped clean ready to get sand blasted when the car is structurally ready and strong enough to go into the rotisserie.

sounds like your project is of the same scale as mine. is it also on this forum?

Howard Long

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Re: 280sl restoration
« Reply #79 on: November 01, 2016, 02:46:12 »
Joel,

You have done such a great job of documenting how and what you have done.  I have not taken the time to photograph each step along the way.  I have posted a few photos of my effort in other forums but I have not set it up as a new subject. I guess I feel like the amateur in this vast forum of real experts.  Do you think that there would be enough interest in my project? 

It has taken me nearly 2 weeks preparing the pieces for the area between the door and the wheel well on the passenger side and tomorrow I hope to get those welded in.  It had surprised me as to how long it takes me to prepare a section for only a hour or two of welding. I guess part of the extra time is because I am learning new skills each day.

Howard


Joel

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Re: 280sl restoration
« Reply #80 on: November 02, 2016, 18:31:24 »
I always take pictures for me but also for my customers so they can see what they pay for. I definitely think there is an interest to see more projects in this forum, I know I like to see project photos  ;D

Joel

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Re: 280sl restoration
« Reply #81 on: November 28, 2016, 17:55:39 »
new headlight bucket.

Joel

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Re: 280sl restoration
« Reply #82 on: November 28, 2016, 17:59:00 »
left front fender done

Joel

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Re: 280sl restoration
« Reply #83 on: November 28, 2016, 18:03:41 »
on to the other side

Joel

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Re: 280sl restoration
« Reply #84 on: November 28, 2016, 18:08:04 »
patch panel

Joel

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Re: 280sl restoration
« Reply #85 on: November 28, 2016, 18:13:56 »
front right

Joel

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Re: 280sl restoration
« Reply #86 on: November 28, 2016, 18:16:03 »
front right

Howard Long

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Re: 280sl restoration
« Reply #87 on: November 28, 2016, 18:20:22 »
Joel,

Great photos.  I hope that I do not have to get into the front of my car near this far.  I do need to do a section of the reinforcement strut in both front wheel wells but I think that I can repair the area I need to work on without removing the front fenders.  It really multiplies the effort of work if the fenders have to come off.  I am not certain, I am ready for that.

Howard
71 280SL 4-speed

Joel

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Re: 280sl restoration
« Reply #88 on: November 28, 2016, 18:32:08 »
it is indeed a big job, but now I'm sure I do no mis any rust.

Joel

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Re: 280sl restoration
« Reply #89 on: November 30, 2016, 21:16:50 »
right front inner fender.

Joel

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Re: 280sl restoration
« Reply #90 on: November 30, 2016, 21:23:32 »
video 7
let me know if you like the videos or prefer the pictures....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSMtDsl7Blc

Tyler S

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Re: 280sl restoration
« Reply #91 on: December 01, 2016, 15:40:24 »
Joel, I like the vids as an overall overview, though you should make them a little longer with some tight detail shots. The pics are great for the forum as they wont go missing over time. (Links go missing/ dont work, youtube looses videos)
1968 (67) 250sl. 4 speed manual. DB180 Silver
1955 220 Cabriolet A. White Grey
2019 E450 Wagon. Majestic Blue
1936 Ford PU Flathead V8. Creme on tan interior.
1989 Volkswagen T3 Westfailia Campmobile. Dove Grey (blue)

Joel

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Re: 280sl restoration
« Reply #92 on: December 01, 2016, 22:37:39 »
Ok Tyler i will keep that in mind for the next video!

Garry

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Re: 280sl restoration
« Reply #93 on: December 02, 2016, 01:41:54 »
Joel,

I agree with Tyler, pictures are better for us to keep on our Group data bases rather than a linked videos that may disappear.  I find pictures are also very handy as reference points and many a time I have printed a photo and taken it out to my shed to check it against the car.

Garry
Garry Marks
Melbourne/ Kyneton, Brisbane. Australia
1969 MB 280SL 5 speed RHD SOLD.
1965 MB 230SL Auto RHD Lt Blue 334G, Top 350H, Tourist Delivery.
1972 MB 280CE Auto RHD 906G
2005 MB A200
2006 MB B200
2019 Izuzu DMax 4x4 Slide-on camper.
2022 Volvo XC40 Electric
2024 Volvo EX30 Electric

Joel

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Re: 280sl restoration
« Reply #94 on: December 15, 2016, 16:44:00 »
sandblasted and reused the wheel arch strut

Joel

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Re: 280sl restoration
« Reply #95 on: December 15, 2016, 16:46:57 »
sandblast the inner fender and put in the new Lamp housing

Joel

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Re: 280sl restoration
« Reply #96 on: December 15, 2016, 16:49:34 »
fender back on
and époxy on it

Joel

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Re: 280sl restoration
« Reply #97 on: December 17, 2016, 12:22:13 »
sandblasted and cleaned up the baffle plates and put them back in.

Joel

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Re: 280sl restoration
« Reply #98 on: December 17, 2016, 12:25:41 »
new nose panel

Joel

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Re: 280sl restoration
« Reply #99 on: December 17, 2016, 12:28:30 »
good clean up and ready for epoxy