1966 230SL Compensator Spring

[Harry]

I have looked through various posts on removing the Compensating Spring but it hasn't been clear to me whether this can be done without removing the rear end?  If so, what is the best method, and what are the specialty tools required to do so?

Thanks very much,
Harry

[rgafitanu@gmail.com]

I have done it several times without removing the rear end. Mine is a W111 but they are the same. If you lift the car until the rear wheels are hanging and release the shock absorbers from the trunk the compensating spring is compressed very little. Take out the right bolt holding the spring bracket and loosen slowly the left one. The spring will push and the bracket will pivot around the left bolt until the spring is decompressed. To put it back on I made a spring compressor out of a 5/16 threaded rod with a couple of nuts and a plate with a hole in it. One end goes in the diff bracket, the other with the plate at about the second or third coil from the right. You tighten until you can swing the bracket back up and bolt it. You may need a vise grip to keep the rod from turning and washers. You will not have to compress too much.
You can also swing back the bracket around the left bolt with a long crowbar if you find steady places to wedge the crowbar. After a lot of knuckle bleeding I gave up on this method.

[waltklatt]

Doing like Radu says, but if the spring will not let the bolt in place, you can disconnect the right shock absorber bottom from the axle. Lower the right side down slowly till you have the bolt lined up to slot it in.  Don't drop the axle too far.

Walter

[Harry]

Thanks very much.  I wondered how much decompression you would see from simply lowering the passenger side with the shock carefully disconnected.  The concern I then had was reinstallation since the spring actually sit in a radiused configuration, i.e. it isn't really compressed simply along a linear path (if that makes sense).

I also need to look because it sounds as though the threaded rod on your compression tool is passed through the seat on the differential side of the spring?  When I looked before for that possibility, I thought both seats were "closed" and that you couldn't pass a rod through either.  Is that what you meant?

Thanks again,
Harry

[Benz Dr.]

I do the same thing expect I use a hooked bar on the the right side retaining bracket. If you look, you will see a hole in this bracket designed for just this purpose. Fit your hook into this hole and push up slightly to remove the left side cap screw. With both axles hanging down, there is almost no pressure on the compensating spring.

Make sure you have a jack under the axle you are releasing BEFORE you undo the bottom of each shock!

[Harry]

So I wasn't clear on the hooked bar.  What are you doing with the hooked bar?  If I support the right rear wheel on a jack, disconnect the shock, then slowly lower the axle on that side to the bottom position, will this be enough to remove the spring?  And can it be reinstalled in the reverse order?

Thanks for the good help.
Harry

[Benz Dr.]

No, you need to remove both shocks at the axle tubes. I use a hooked tool that comes to a point at the other end. You can buy them in sets that come in several sizes. I'm not sure what to call them but they are very handy to have around.
The right side spring retainer has a flat plate that you can slip the hooked tool behind and then lift up. With both shocks undone there won't be much pressure on the spring. There is no need for spring compressors. 

[Harry]

Apologies for still not quite seeing what you're saying regarding the hooked tool.  I would remove the shock absorbers from each axle tube and carefully allow the rear end to then "open", decompressing the spring.  I would remove the right hand bolt from the spring bracket, loosen the left hand bolt and let the bracket pivot to remove the spring.

At this point, I will replace the boot - which is the reason for all of this!  With that installed, I'd basically reverse the order I noted above, perhaps having to pry the bracket over to where the right hand bolt hole aligns.  It sounds as though this is where you are using the hooked tool - to instead lift the bracket to align the bolt?  If so, what is grabbing the hooked tool to lift it?  Your hand?

Also, I'm now considering whether I need to remove the exhaust or can just release at the rear and allow it to lower some, out of the way.  I guess I'll have to see?

[Benz Dr.]

You pretty much have it. The hooked tool will slide into the right hand bracket you are talking about. Remove the right screw and undo  the left as you stated using the hooked tool to exert a bit of upward force to clear the right hand screw. This method comes into play quite nicely during assembly.

Yes, you will need to lower, but not remove, the rear portion of the exhaust. I use a small chain to hold it up while working.