Fuel filler neck too short???

[Buddydog]

I just purchased the OEM locking gas cap and the rubber boot to clean up the backend.  Currently, it has a Stant (very loosely fitted...don't think it's - non-vented unit):


Today, I attempted to install the boot/gas cap and discovered the gas filler neck is too short.  With just the boot, it completely exceed the length of the filler neck.  Even without the boot, the new gas cap (not tightened down) is slightly tucked inside the sheet metal. 





According to the technical manual: Two sizes of fuel tanks are used on the Pagodas. 230 SLs have a 65 liter tank. Early 230 SLs have a vertically mounted spare wheel on the left side of the trunk with its well sticking out under the trunk floor. Later, (after chassis # 007205) the spare wheel mounting was changed to a horizontal position on the right side of the trunk. This allowed for a flat trunk floor and a bigger 80 liter tank could be fitted from November 1965 to the 230 and then to 250 and 280 SLs. The 80 liter can also be fitted to the flat trunk floor 230 SLs but the electric fuel pump has be relocated.

My gas tank looks like the 65L unit; however, mine is #7265 and it does have flat trunk floor so it should have the 80L tank - correct?

Checked out all of the mounting bolts and looks like everything is secured properly.  Any ideas? 

[Benz Dr.]

They didn't actually change to the 82 liter tank until the introduction of the 250SL,  although as you note, some 230SL's can be fitted with them. My own 230SL would be one of those examples.

 Some of those early reproduction fuel tanks had filler necks that were too short - you could have one of them.

[Buddydog]

Thank you Benz Dr!

Early reproduction tank could explain the discrepancy.  I'm looking for a new tank now.

There has a few threads about replica tanks made by Dansk but has anyone tried one yet and can give an actual hands on feedback?

[Alex D]

My new Dansk tank will be installed in the next 2-3 weeks will let you know. 

[col320ce]

From memory there may be a little movement of the tank... I could be wrong.
3 nuts to loosen and yank it back.

[Buddydog]

My new Dansk tank will be installed in the next 2-3 weeks will let you know.

Love to hear your impression of the tank and please verify how much adjustability you have with the tank.  Thanks.

[Buddydog]

Thanks for advice.  Unfortunately, I have a full tank of gas and just taken the entire dash apart so I can't "use" up some weight.  Hopefully others can chime in on the amount of adjustment possible with the tank.  I need at least 3".

[col320ce]

Definitely not 3"...  Sorry.

[watson2]

Hi Buddydog. Excuse the delay. I changed my tank in 2015 and I had the same problem you have.
Perhaps it was a little better in comparison with your one.

Well this is the image I sent to the vendor of the tank to obtain further help.
We did the modifications you see in these images and we had a little improvement in the neck position.

The second image shows the base condition of the 'clip' in comparison whit the final shape.

[watson2]

I am ashamed to say it a little bit, but after the seller's response (he said it was fine)
we literally pulled the neck while with a long rod inside the tube was swinging the entire tube up and down.

We gained a few more millimeters probably for a slight distension of the folds present
in the lower part of the curve of the tube.

My car is in a body workshop for painting at this moment. So I can post only this picture .
The next week I'll send the final result explained above.

[Buddydog]

Thanks Flavio for your pics and input.  Great engineering!

Unfortunately, I don't think mine can be extended as much as yours:





Patiently awaiting for Alex D's feedback on his Dansk install.

[guyke]

empty the tank , cut the nek off , use a tube a little bit larger and slide it over the cuted piece , adjust the nek in a perfect position , weld everything back togerther , i would do that , its much cheaper as a new tank ,

[114015]

empty the tank , cut the nek off , use a tube a little bit larger and slide it over the cuted piece , adjust the nek in a perfect position , weld everything back togerther , i would do that , its much cheaper as a new tank ,

Yes,
me too. I would do the same.
But do take the tank our of the car first, empty it more completely than you can, put it upright, open all openings and let all - absolutely all - fumes go out and leave the tank !!

Let it wait there until spring or so. Then do the welding. Not earlier.
You do not want to light up a gas bomb - especially not under your car -
otherwise you most likely need to go after a new passport picture for yourself.
 

Good luck,

Achim
(gas tank emptied for 10 years)

[guyke]

i go whit high air pressure in the tank for an hour , and force al the fumes out

[Scottcorvette]

Steam clean inside it too. Risky business welding tanks, you might be better getting the neck brazed, even then you need to make sure the tank is completely free of vapour.

For what it's worth I have a used tank that is full of holes, but you may be able to use the neck off it and fit it into yours. It isn't available just yet as I want to trial fit my new tank before I junk this one just in case, so it will be a few months before I can get rid, but if you are not in a rush the offer is there.

[watson2]

empty the tank , cut the nek off , use a tube a little bit larger and slide it over the cuted piece , adjust the nek in a perfect position , weld everything back togerther , i would do that , its much cheaper as a new tank ,

I agree. No other way.
I had a certain experience about tank cutting and welding and recutting and rewelding at least in a couple of circumstancies on my car. At last I changed the tank and the first picture shows the number for the 230 SL (65 lt).
The other pictures belong to the inspection we did on the new tank. As you can see the surface is treated with zinc and the hoses are in stainless steel and copper (strange choice: copper and zinc in proximity. And the Volta effect or pile effect?).
The brown color near the light is cork , not rust.

(continues....)
 

[watson2]

I sent to you these images to show that probably there is no contraindication to do the following.
I simply say to you my idea based on what we did when my first original tank was cutted ; you will decide what can be made on your one.

-Take measures with the tank on the car or make comparison on other cars 
to figure out how many centimeters you have to extend the tubing.
 (it could be useful to receive measures from other members and I will do in a few days).

-Remove the tank from the car

-Wash the tank with simple water for 10-15 minutes or more, if you want

- Put the tank upside or with 30-40° of angle, not flat. Close all possible ways out

-Then fill it completely with water up to the beginning of the neck.
When the tank is completely filled, the only vapour you can find is water vapour

- So you can begin the welding manouvers. With all that water in the tank I would advice Acetylene and Oxigen with Castolin
or something like that  instead of TIG welding machine (in my case Tig was used (picture2)).

Dry out perfectly the tank and verify it with one of that optical inspection probe that you can buy with a few Dollars or Euro.
I have one and you can't imagine how many times it can be helpful.

A final warning. Make sure that the inside of the pipe is clean. In my case there was a sort of  wax on the side (see picture)

[mdsalemi]

Some of those early reproduction fuel tanks had filler necks that were too short - you could have one of them.

I can't believe that here in 2016 soon to be 2017, there are still reproduction fuel tanks with necks too short!
I changed my fuel tank (to OEM at the then ghastly price of something north of $1,000) about 10 years ago now. At the time, while shopping this around, I contacted our trusty friends at K&K here in [relatively] nearby Sparta, Michigan, and spoke with proprietor Tim Kidder. I remember him asking me with a chuckle "Do you want a tank that fits, or one that doesn't? I have both".

Apparently he had some tanks made in Poland way back when, and whoever made them did so with filler necks too short.

[Buddydog]

For what it's worth I have a used tank that is full of holes, but you may be able to use the neck off it and fit it into yours. It isn't available just yet as I want to trial fit my new tank before I junk this one just in case, so it will be a few months before I can get rid, but if you are not in a rush the offer is there.

Very kind of you sir.  I won't be working on it until spring.  It's too cold in the Midwest USA.  Doing some interior finessing in the winter.  Please let me know when you have it available.

@Watson.....thanks for the pics and ideas.  It's been awhile since I welded....should be like riding a bike.

@Michael....this car was "restored" 10-15 years ago.  It's funny how I'm fixing all of the previous "restoration" work!  The tank now is just a bit north of $1,000.  If Scott's filler neck doesn't work out, I may have to just buy the OEM tank. 

[mdsalemi]

...funny how I'm fixing all of the previous "restoration" work!  The tank now is just a bit north of $1,000.  If Scott's filler neck doesn't work out, I may have to just buy the OEM tank.

I'm lauging now, because if you take an old tank, and then an old filler neck from another old tank, spend the time to fit it all together and get it right--at some point someday someone is going to say, "I just took the old tank out and can you believe it? Somebody jerry-rigged one tank out of two with a filler neck brazed on!" They might have some other choice words too, particularly if they are solving a fuel issue and the tank is to blame.

My own experience and opinion, (and you can toss this by the wayside if you choose) is get the fuel system straight, and that means a proper tank. Spending time on two old tanks is just a band aid for which you'll be back at this at some point...when the cost of a proper tank is higher. Yes, I'm aware that a new tank is costly. These are NOT cars for those without the means to maintain them--and they are getting worse as prices rise and parts costs go up.