Author Topic: Changing engine mounts (Read 5949 times)

col320ce · « **on:** January 02, 2017, 11:26:37 »

I'm going to have another shot at this tomorrow. I removed on one side the 19mm bolt and raised the engine with a jack located off centre but I was unable to get free space above the engine mount. I think I just need to jack the engine up more but I am concerned that I might damage the sump. Can anyone tell me how much I need to jack up the engine before it should lift off the mount? And can I damage the sump by doing this? Also the hex fit bolts securing the mounts are incorrect - can anyone tell me the correct length of these bolts and are they painted black or are they silver coloured?
Thanks for any help ...

cfm65@me.com · « **Reply #1 on:** January 02, 2017, 12:13:24 »

Hi Col,
I have just replaced my engine mounts. I used an approximate 10 x 10 inch off cut board in order to protect the pan. By doing this, the weight of the engine is spread evenly and carried by all 4 walls of the pan.
I raised it in the centre in order to keep the engine level and checked all the pipes, hoses and wiring until the engine mounts were free. The new mountings are 58mm high, if I remember correct. So if you lift slowly until the mounts are loose, you should be OK, and then a little bit more to slip the new ones in.
I then used the same off cut board to lift the auto box under it's pan in order to replace the rear/tranny mount.
Remember to check your hood/engine clearance before closing the hood. If you find that you do not have enough hood clearance, you might also check your front subframe/body mounts. There should be a 4mm spacer, called a 'stop plate', which is very important for hood clearance and body stance. For some reason most of these 'stop plates' have somehow 'disappeared' over the years.
Regards
Chris

col320ce · « **Reply #2 on:** January 02, 2017, 21:43:23 »

Hi Chris
Thanks very much for your help. It sounds like you did both sides together is that correct?

cfm65@me.com · « **Reply #3 on:** January 03, 2017, 02:22:15 »

Yes Col, I did.
Thinking that it might be best keeping the motor level.
Your question re the hex bolts securing the mountings to the subframe. They are supposed to be 10 mm Allan bolts. Get yourself a long reach 6mm Allan key socket to tighten them down. I think the bolts should be plated but I am not sure if they were silver or gold. The plating guys in our part of the world call the last part of the plating process 'bright' or 'yellow passivation' hence the silver or gold finish.
Regards
Chris

Rick · « **Reply #4 on:** January 03, 2017, 02:29:08 »

Factory correct is yellow CAD. Many replacement mount kits came with replacement bolts which were black or white (silver).

cfm65@me.com · « **Reply #5 on:** January 03, 2017, 03:16:09 »

Apologies Col,
They are not 10mm but 8mm bolts with 6 mm Allan heads.
Hi Rick, yep, I've also heard the silver passivate called 'white' or 'bright'
Regards
Chris

col320ce · « **Reply #6 on:** January 03, 2017, 03:31:39 »

Great stuff...
I've removed 1 mount and following the BBB and it says 'screw the collar nut down as far as it will go. compress the rubber mounting in a press... Then screw in the collar nut two turns.'
Is this referring to screwing the collar nut finger tight then 2 further turns?
I'll attach BBB pictures
Thanks again...

col320ce · « **Reply #7 on:** January 03, 2017, 04:06:32 »

Ok... Answering my own question... Finger tight the 2 turns. Obvious when you read the next paragraph...

col320ce · « **Reply #8 on:** January 03, 2017, 08:05:46 »

On the drivers side the 19 mm bolt has had one side if the head ground off. It looks as though it may have been hitting the exhaust manifold. Either way I can't undo the bolt nor can I get a ring spanner over it as the exhaust manifold is in the way. I can't think of anything else other than loosening the bolts to the manifolds and the exhaust pipes and seeing if I can wiggle enough room to get the spanner over the bolt. The 2 smaller bolts are out and I've tried to remove the inlet manifold but it's hitting the break booster - I have a rhd and I think this is different to lhd ones in thus respect.

cfm65@me.com · « **Reply #9 on:** January 03, 2017, 11:55:55 »

Hi Col,
Unfortunately, I have never owned or worked on a RHD. You could try to remove the complete RH mounting arm from the engine and then lift the engine higher in order to extract the rubber mount. However, you might find that the exhaust will then snag under the driver floor.
Rest assured, within a few minutes you will have an answer right here.
Chris

col320ce · « **Reply #10 on:** January 03, 2017, 21:12:39 »

I'm a bit stuck now... I can't get the 19 mm bolt out as I can't get a ring spanner over it. I can't re-locate the 2 small bolts to put it back together unfixed. I can't get to the bolts on the mounting arm. And loosening the exhaust manifold didn't give me much more room....

Bonnyboy · « **Reply #11 on:** January 04, 2017, 05:16:18 »

can you get a tapered punch into the bolt holes to realign them to get the smaller bolt started into the threads. I seem to recall spending a bit of time with tapered punches to get the smaller bolts in.

ja17 · « **Reply #12 on:** January 04, 2017, 06:03:58 »

Everyone has their own method and tools. I like to get one of the small bolts (the most difficult to reach) started first. Move the mount as needed and get the large 19mm bolt next. You will see that the last small bolt hole does not line up at this point. I lower the engine a bit to allow some weight back on the mount. Next use a pry tool (large screw driver, drift or pry bar) to alight the last small hole. Insert a drift or round screwdriver shaft in the hole to finish aligning it. Lower the engine so that the hole stays aligned, remove the drift and start the last small screw. Go back and tighten all the other bolts.

col320ce · « **Reply #13 on:** January 04, 2017, 08:44:40 »

Thanks everyone... I'm getting there.
Managed to replace the mount and I've got the 19mm and rear most bolts in. The front bolt that should be the easiest is causing the problem. it's been cross threaded so it's getting very hard to start. There really isn't enough room to pop a tap down it either...

cfm65@me.com · « **Reply #14 on:** January 04, 2017, 14:56:00 »

Hi Col,
I am pleased to hear that you are winning.
There is a way to Mc Guiver a bolt into a slightly cross threaded or difficult hole.
Other guys will surely chime in. You can buy boddy bolts or boddy screws with a small wedgie cut into the tread. You must have seen them. To make your own. Firstly, turn a nut all the way onto your bolt and clean the thread with a wire brush. Then taper the end of the thread slightly and with a hack saw cut a small vee into the nose of the bolt. Clean the tread after every step and use the nut on the shaft to help clean the thread.
If you dont understand my discription, I'll see if I can find such a bolt and send you a photo.
Regards
Chris

cfm65@me.com · « **Reply #15 on:** January 04, 2017, 15:14:43 »

Col,
I posted a few photos

cfm65@me.com · « **Reply #16 on:** January 04, 2017, 15:17:19 »

Some more

col320ce · « **Reply #17 on:** January 04, 2017, 20:39:23 »

Excellent Chris
I'll get one of those!

cfm65@me.com · « **Reply #18 on:** January 05, 2017, 03:29:36 »

Col,
Use the Allan bolt you've got and make your own.
Cheers

col320ce · « **Reply #19 on:** January 05, 2017, 03:44:14 »

Will do... Looks pretty straight forward.

col320ce · « **Reply #20 on:** January 06, 2017, 11:55:02 »

Thanks everyone .... got it in. I managed to get a tap into it and straightened the first few bits of the thread. Went in nice and easily after that. Still need to put the rest of the car back together but that's pretty much child's play now.

cfm65@me.com · « **Reply #21 on:** January 06, 2017, 18:16:42 »

Well done Col,
Regards
Chris

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Author Topic: Changing engine mounts (Read 5949 times)