Please help with my purchase

[THEWHEELJUNKIE]

Good evening,

   I am interested in buying a 1963 Pagoda with a very early VIN, Body, and Engine numbers. The car needs restoration but has no damage or rust. It seems to be completely original including all body panels, engine and tranny,  with no sign of body work or body filler. It is just very weathered cosmetically. It is a factory black car with a white hardtop (no soft top) and a tan interior. The VIN tag on the driver door jam matches the VIN on the plate screwed to the firewall. But the body number on the inside left fender does not match the VIN. The only difference is the body number ends in a "5" and the VIN ends in a "3". That is the only difference. Is that typical? Please help. It would be much appreciated. Thanks! 

[cfm65@me.com]

Yes, the body number on the left is not the same as the VIN plate on the fire wall. The VIN number is also stamped on the RH inner fender below the throttle body.
Good luck with your purchase.
Regards
Chris
Cape Town

[kampala]

This link may help you understand VIN vs Body numbers.   

https://www.sl113.org/wiki/DataCard/BodyandPaintNumberPlate

Also, if you provide photos of what you are asking about (body numbers, VIN etc.) you will probably get a lot more help and get help on items you may not be aware of.


Good luck with the purchase.    let us know how it goes.

[Jonny B]

Separate VIN plate on the door pillar? And one on the firewall? For US cars, the location was changed at 250 SL, VIN ending in 773. For the Euro cars, the plate stayed on the firewall.

[THEWHEELJUNKIE]

Thank you! I am now sure especially with receiving the copy of the "build sheet" the car is all numbers matching! Any chance someone can tell me what a fair price I should pay for such a car with the description provided? I can't reveal the VIN because of a promise I made to the owner until I pay for the car in full but what I can say is the VIN is before "0000250". Assume the car needs a full restoration in order to be show quality or just a complete professional paint job and a complete engine detail to get this car in a very nice driver quality state. The interior is intact with no rips or tears except the dash and the steering wheel. The 1st generation horn ring is perfect but the wheel needs restoration as it is full of hair thin cracks. Every part is there with never an accident, no rust, no body filler, no dents, and nothing has been altered. I just need a price window. I know it is impossible to give an exact figure because I am not allowed to even post pictures until I own the car. Thanks again!

[THEWHEELJUNKIE]

Yes. The plate on the firewall on the passenger side gives the VIN and the weight of the car in various forms. The plate on the driver door jam reveal the VIN and the body color codes.

[THEWHEELJUNKIE]

One more thing. It has the data card version #1 included in the sale. On this data card in  group "f" this car has the codes "320" and "330". I see nothing on this site that will inform me what these 2 codes represent. Anyone know?

[Jordan]

Never heard of or seen a VIN tag on the drivers door jam for a 230SL.

Code 320, left rear view mirror not installed, mirror fixture mounted
Code 330, can't find anything that goes back to '63-'64

[bogeyman]

Be careful with sellers that put unrealistic restrictions on the transaction.
Will he let you take the car to an independent appraiser? 
No pictures?
Do your due diligence - sometimes sellers are restrictive for good reason...

[Rolf-Dieter ✝︎]

I see you followed my tip to post here, to e-mail us Board Members with questions like this will not bring the results you get in our Forum.

As to your price question, I concur bogeymanmto get the car appraised by a appraiser that can give you a fair price window. You need this anyway for your insurance, also you need photos for your insurance. Which this in mind I strongly recommend that a) you take photos, post some here to get more help from us. b) have someone check the car mechanically and c) have a appraisal done.

When you do this you will know how much more you have to spend to get the car in the shape that you wish it to be. Remember a photo is worth a 1000 words. You may spend some dollars to get the car checked mechanically and have it appraised, however, it will benefit you in the end.

Good luck with the sale. 

[JamesL]

As they say... if you haven't got any rust, you've not been looking hard enough.
I am sure a Ca car is far better than one here in the UK but it's 50+ years old...

[dirkbalter]

I completely agree with JamesL. I also think that at a minimum you need to get the car on a lift and assuming you know what to look for, inspect it from underneath. The mechanical problems are in my opinion easier and less cost intensive than restoring the body.  I just did a complete ground up restauration on my 230 body. Considering you live around the corner, feel free to PM me and I can show you some pics.
Dirk

[DaveB]

That all sounds very original for an early car, including the door jamb plate. My estimate of fair value, based on the limited information and assuming no major problems with the vehicle or title, is up to 30k (ideally you'd want to pay significantly less).

[Garry]

Dave,

I think $30k may be a bit under the current value for a very original no rust damage free with age patina. 

Hagertys are starting their pricing with a condition 4 at $40k  3 at $57K  2 at $76k 1 at $135k and that is the three year average sales so the latest would be at the upper end of all this given the price rises in the past three years.

Garry

[pj]

If you are in Ladera Ranch, California, you have plenty of new friends nearby who can give this car a good look.

And you are near enough to Palomar Mountain that I will come visit you some day :-)

[THEWHEELJUNKIE]

You guys are great! Thanks for all the input. Jordan I could be wrong. I think maybe the plate on the driver door jam has the body number and not the VIN. Since on this particular car the only difference between the two numbers  is the very last digit I could have very well read it incorrectly. This car has less than 45K original documented miles and has all the original paperwork that you could ask for. I will keep anyone who is interested up to date on this car. Again I have yet to make an offer but I'm sure it will become my car one day soon. Thanks again!

[Naj ✝︎]

To make a realistic offer at 2017 prices, have a look at the Barrett Jackson sales this month.
I saw a 280SL sold for 42k and a 230SL for 40K

naj

[Benz Dr.]

If you are in Ladera Ranch, California, you have plenty of new friends nearby who can give this car a good look.

And you are near enough to Palomar Mountain that I will come visit you some day :-)

You really need to put salt on your steps.

[DaveB]

Dave,
I think $30k may be a bit under the current value for a very original no rust damage free with age patina. 

Yes maybe I'm a couple of years behind the present value. 45k miles with paperwork sounds special, as does the colour - black with white hardtop & hubcaps, never seen that