Hard Top Securing Post Removal

[JimVillers]

I am restoring my hard top and need to remove the door jam securing post.  The manual says to remove the pin with a drift.  I have tried that but mine seems very solid.  With the plastic cone, I can't seem to get any kind of support while I try to drive it out.

Has anyone successfully removed these posts?  Any advice?

[66andBlue]

Hi Jim,
did you remove the sleeve as described by Gernold in the tech manual? "To remove the lower release handle shown in Figure 4, carefully grind away the tapped end on one side and remove the sleeve which is pushed over the pin. If you are unable to drive out the pin with a center punch, use a drill."
I had to grip the sleeve with a vise grip (see marks in the photo) to drive the pin out.

Since you have to destroy the sleeve make sure you have a new pin available. Either just a straight pin:
http://www.authenticclassics.com/Hardtop-Latch-Pin-Fits-230SL-250SL-280SL-113Ch-p/auth-007026.htm
or the sleeve and pin from a member:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/W113-Mercedes-Pagode-Hardtop-Verriegelung-B-Saule-230-250-280-SL-/332091941090?hash=item4d5238e0e2:g:nlwAAOSwDN1URCqL
Note that only the sleeve and pin are included NOT the other parts (cone and spacer).

[Jordan]

Jim, I removed mine about a month ago.  Used a centre punch.  The one side came out reasonably easy but I had to spend a few days applying penetrating fluid and banging on the second one to finally get it to move.

[JimVillers]

Now I understand.  I knew that there was more to this than met the eye.

Thanks and thanks for the links.

[JimVillers]

One more question; there was a sealant between the trim pieces and the steel top that looked like "plumber's putty".  Is that the correct sealant or would 3M strip caulk or a seam sealer be better?

[waltklatt]

Jim,
When using the punch and hammer. 
Try to align the direction of the hammering force to the back of the hardtop, i.e. turn the handle so that the pins are parallel to the side glass and the one with the press fitting towards the front. 
This method reduces the vibration and bending/distortion of the fragile steel frame that holds the side glass in.
Best of luck.
Walter

[StevenF]

This may help:
http://www.blackforestllc.com/classic_gallery.html

[66andBlue]

One more question; there was a sealant between the trim pieces and the steel top that looked like "plumber's putty".  Is that the correct sealant or would 3M strip caulk or a seam sealer be better?

Jim,
50 years ago Daimler actually did use "plumber's putty" made with linseed oil but you cannot get it any longer. 3M strip caulk is OK, I have used "Mortite":
https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=22952.msg164087#msg164087

Walter's suggestion for hammering the pin out is very necessary if you do not want to take the glass out. Otherwise take the glass out first as Gernold describes it.