OK, guys, thanks for the input…this is going to be fun!
Thought about the suggestions, here’s what comes to mind right away…
Years back, I made a modification on a ’66 Mustang where I wanted a receiver-CD player but didn’t want to cut the dash. Here’s what I did…
bought a Pioneer car receiver that had a credit card sized infrared remote control…mounted radio in box in the trunk, and made up an infrared repeater from the front of the radio to the ashtray…pulling out the ashtray slightly exposed an infrared photodiode, which when I pointed my remote and triggered a function, the signal (via an op-amp booster) drove an IR LED in the trunk in front of the radio…I could turn it on/off, change channels, CD, volume, you name it. Good theft deterrent too…I’ll post pictures later and schematic. Parts at Radio Shack, can be done for SLs as well.
Someone mentioned an alternative to the headlight dip switch…it would be worth looking into an MB directional that has the function when pushed forward. Failing that, one could affix a switch to the stalk of course, but one could use the IR LED here as well…the small LED key chain lights could be fitted with an IR emitter (this would be custom molded to be a black block affixed with PSA or pressure sensitive adhesive to the back of the directional knob), receiver bottom of footwell which operates a relay or preferably a power transistor). Electric fans…at first, I didn’t like when auto mfgs went to these as I like the reliability of the mechanical system. However, use of TWO small electric fans, each with their own thermostat for redundancy, would work out well.
Speaking of redundancy and reliability, I only use electronics in very specific applications, personal feeling being that cars today have far too much needless technology. That’s why I drive a Pagoda as my daily car. Used properly, new tech can be helpful. As an example, I installed an MSD (Multiple Spark Discharge) ignition in my SL. Better mileage, performance, Dwell never changes….BUT…I kept the points installed, using them to trigger the solid-state MSD. That way, with only milliamps going through the points, they last forever (negating mechanical rubbing block wear) and the MSD handles the current. But if the electronics fail, I can default to full current via the points so I don’t get stuck. Best of both worlds.
Panel rheostat…these fail in many cars…I have an ’85 Rolls Royce Silver Spirit that had horribly dim dash lighting and a very intermittent rheostat dimmer. I replaced it with a high quality 10K pot coupled to a power transistor. Smooth as silk, no cutouts. The other ideas for rear end kits, sway bars, trans. Changeovers, etc. I need to learn more about the problem. These areas could be prohibitive to tool up for. Let’s continue brainstorming…much CAN be done!
