Cadmium plating List or Chart.

[dirkbalter]

All,
I a recent thread that discussed the plating of components for our cars, we established that it might be helpful to generate a file showing and listing all the components for plating, mainly cadmium plating.
I volunteered to help with the generation of the file and I am looking for help from you.
I will probable separate the areas into:
Engine, Engine bay, Front Axle and Suspension, Rear Axle and Suspension, Other.
The intent is to match the original plating scheme, not necessarily to plate whatever is possible. 
I believe quite a few members already went through the exercise of listing, taking pictures and plating components of their cars. If you have any lists, or pictures, or else, that you are willing to share, your help would be much appreciated.
Ideally, someone has original pictures of the above areas that show the type of plating. Also pictures of restored to original cars (areas of the cars) would be helpful.
I myself will search thru the threads and published pics to gather useful information. (Just starting).
Any help or suggestions are welcome.
You can also e-mail me at dirkbalter@hotmail .com
Thanks
Dirk

[Benz Dr.]

It would also be helpful to have a list of places where the factory used paint to indicate where a screw or nut was checked after fastening. I see the brake booster bracket has the correct paint marks on the fastening nuts - nice work. lots of stuff under the car with paint marks.

 Maybe we are near the point of being able to do high level judging of really nice cars at our national events. I know that's been started but is it a club objective?

[wwheeler]

That is another good idea but will need to be in a totally separate section. Paint inspection. I believe most of that to be undercarriage and engine bay. There are numerous threads about that, but not in one place. I have several pictures I can contribute if we have a place to put it.

Thanks for getting this started Dirk.

[66andBlue]

There are indeed numerous threads on this. Just search for "dotology" and you'll get about 12 hits.
One of them includes a quote by Frank Mallory:

"Actually, there is a field of study know as "dotology" that is devoted
to analysis, recognition, and cataloging of the paint spots on Mercedes
(no joke).
Most of the paint spots were applied by the special torque wrenches used
by Factory inspectors; when the wrench reached the specified valoe for
that fitting, it squirted out some paint.
Other spots were put on springs, motor mounts, and other components, to
designate their value in shore hardness, etc.
The reason these marks are being studied is that when a car is restored
to 100 point condition, it is considered essential that it have the same
paint spots it left the Factory with.
Frank M."

But I agree this should be totally separate from Dirk's initiative.

[ja17]

Another possible format for some documentation, would be to collect  photos like this with information on every assembly with the hardware. Adding the factory part numbers, for the hardware with descriptions from the dealer parts book in each photo would make it complete.

[Jonny B]

I agree this is a good idea. Keep in mind that there were changes through the years on the pieces/parts for plating. One example from the photo (which is from the 280 SL sales brochure) shows the automatic transmission dipstick with plating and a small white sticker on the top. Later dipsticks had a black rubber cap.

[Shvegel]

A good resource for the plated parts on various models is Motoring Investments.  Brian seems to like to deal in very top shelf cars many of which are unrestored low mileage examples. 

http://motoringinvestments.com/

http://historic.motoringinvestments.com/

Here are a some really fine points that tend to get overlooked:
Straps for Power steering reservoir, and coolant expansion tank(later cars), Distributor vacuum can, Later small oil filler cap and at least the later cold start solenoid are Bright Cadmium(Zinc).

Shoulder bolt for the alternator bracket to engine block, shoulder bolt for brake pedal linkage to booster and brake caliper mounting bolts are Black Oxide.

[dirkbalter]

I am in the process of collection photos of the areas in question. Thanks to Shvegel (and others) for the link and comments. As Jonny pointed out correctly, the engine pic is from an original sales brochure.
I am under the impression that I don’t need permission to used published photos for our purpose.  Is that correct?
Dirk

[wwheeler]

I have two pictures of a 280SE (not SL) engine and not sure where they came from. Even though not a SL engine, has most of the same features. Hopefully has some use.

[49er]

 I would be more than happy to donate my engine bay photos (250SL and 280SL) to the cause.

John

[dirkbalter]

John, great,
I was about to PM you. I got your information from a member who suggested the same.
I understand that you have original pictures from when your car was new. Particularly engine bay........
Thank you for sharing.
(dirkbalter@hotmail.com)
Dirk

[49er]

John, great,
I was about to PM you. I got your information from a member who suggested the same.
I understand that you have original pictures from when your car was new. Particularly engine bay........
Thank you for sharing.
(dirkbalter@hotmail.com)
Dirk

 Three photos are on the way.

John

[Shvegel]

I forgot the front crankshaft bolt and washers which are also black oxide.

[dirkbalter]

Thanks.
Also thanks to John, got your photos.
Dirk

[Benz Dr.]

Black parts are probably not black oxide but rather black phosphate which will outlast black oxide several times over. At any rate, that's what I would use.

[dirkbalter]

Dr.
I agree that phosphate coating is a step up from black oxide with respect to corrosion protection. The parts I had (for different reasons) black phosphate coated, had a somewhat rough surfaces afterwards and were rather dull than shiny. Do you see the same?
   

[wwheeler]

The other even more durable option is a black zinc. Tends to be smoother and more shiny than either phosphate or oxide coating. But much more durable and I do that at home as well.

[dirkbalter]

Below is a link to the plating specs and the guys we are using. As you see, there are all kind of coatings for different reasons. Our goal is a dark or black finish with maximum corrosion protection at a reasonable price. I will be there next week and will get their opinion or recommendation as well.

http://techplate.com/specchart1rev.htm

[wwheeler]

Great list and thanks for posting. Both black oxide and phosphate look like they require some regular maintenance as the "black" coating is just a vehicle for holding a corrosion inhibitor. When they talk about "oiling your bolts", it is for this type of coating. My old '60 220SE has mostly black oxide/phosphate coating on the hardware with a bit of probably CAD (silver). The black colored bolts were all mostly rusted. They are now black zinc and no more oiling.

By the time they got to the W111 and W113, looks like the yellow zinc/cad was in vogue. I had absolutely no yellow zinc/cad on the '60 car. I say zinc/cad because I have no idea which it was. Where as on the '60 Ponton, I am assuming it was silver CAD which by the way were in OK shape after 50+ years.

[Benz Dr.]

Dr.
I agree that phosphate coating is a step up from black oxide with respect to corrosion protection. The parts I had (for different reasons) black phosphate coated, had a somewhat rough surfaces afterwards and were rather dull than shiny. Do you see the same?
   

My stuff had a sort of dull satin finish. I think it's important to have your parts cleaned really well, then sand blasting, and then polishing until shiny. Anything that's not shiny before plating will take on a dull appearance after plating.

[dirkbalter]

I haven't done much on the CAD plating chart yet but did talk to the plating guy with respect to black oxide / phosphate coating. Below is from their side:

Black Oxide

Black Oxide Coating process was originally developed during the early 1900’s. The modern bath become commercially prevalent during the later 1930’s and has remained so through today. With little advancement to the actual chemical process, BOI is commitment to continuous improvement in techniques, education, and latest technology has advanced BOI to the top of the Chemical Conversion Coating profession. 
Black Oxide process applies to ferrous, non-ferrous, brass and copper alloy. The Black Oxide is a true conversion coating converting iron to the naturally occurring black iron oxide compound called magnetite. The magnetite is produced through chemical reaction as the alloy is immersed into the hot blackening solution. Dwell times depend on such parameters as base alloy, part density, surface hardness, and nature of the heat treated surface.  The Black Oxide conversion will not reduce hardness or affect the dimensional characteristics of the finished part. Producing no appreciable dimensional change, it has been documented to be measured at 5 millionths of an inch.  The coating becomes an integral part of the base metal surface and does not chip, peel, crack, or rub off. When aesthetics are specified, note that the gloss level or shade of black cannot be controlled. The finish is dependent on the condition or finish of the base material. The desired gloss level may be achieved prior to the Black Oxide process through mechanical means.  Machining, polishing, line-graining, abrasive blast, polishing and buffing, all play an integral part in achieving a desired shade or gloss level of black color. Black Oxide is considered as a non-sacrificial coating, meaning it offers a limited amount of corrosion protection and generally is specified when dimensional build-up of a more corrosion resistant finish cannot be tolerated.
BOI performs Black Oxide processes certifying to various aerospace, military, and prime customer specifications:
MIL-DTL-13924 Class 1, 2, 3, & 4 (steel & stainless steel)
AMS-2485 (steel)
MIL-F-495 (brass & copper)

Phosphate Coatings

Phosphate Coatings became popular during the First & Second World War as it was discovered that treating metal surfaces to modify their properties for various purposes including corrosion protection, improving paint adhesion, and improved lubricity. A war-time shortage of tin resulted in phosphate as an option to replace tin plated steel.  Phosphate coatings in the original rust-proofing application probably reached an all-time record high during the war particularly in the UK and USA with vast quantities of armament parts owning their durability in service to this treatment.  Popularity carried over in post war years as newer applications of phosphate coatings appeared. With few fundamental advancement in the phosphate process since this time, steady advance in techniques have accelerated popularity among metal manufacturers. 
Both Zinc & Manganese Phosphate coating are typically a stand alone coating or used as a base for paint or other top coat finishes. Phosphate offers a greatly enhanced bonding on ferrous alloy in addition to being an underlying base coat for added corrosion protection. As a stand alone coating, phosphate provides excellent base for holding rust preventatives, lubricants, etc.  A friable crystalline structure is formed which is an excellent anti-galling selection for break in application for shafts, gears, and various moving assemblies.
BOI performs both immersion zinc & manganese phosphate coating processes certifying to various aerospace & military specifications:
MIL-DTL-16232 Type M & Type Z, Class 1, 2, & 3
AMS 2480 (Zinc Phosphate)  AMS 2481 (Manganese Phosphate)



I am told and understand that black oxide is used if no dimensional change can be tolerated. ( no build up)
One step up with respect to corrosion protection is phosphate coating. A Zink Phosphate is recommended. If max corrosion protection is desired, a supplemental oil treatment can be added.

He recommended:
MIL-DTL-16232, Type Z, CLASS1 - OIL FINISH
OR
MIL-DTL-16232, Type Z, CLASS3  (no supplemental finish)

Dirk

[rbouch8828]

Hello Dirk,

Have you been able to make any progress, or did you receive any good candidates from members?

I just put my 1970 280SL up on stands and drained all the fluids and I have removed the hood and Brake Booster. Now I am ready to begin the process of taking off the parts for cleaning and re-plating. Some should probably be replaced.

When I removed the Brake Boost Drum, the mounting flange that is still attached to the firewall, looks like it needs a good cleaning, so I will probably need to remove it too. One thing leads to another...

I will be setting up a door on a couple of Saw Horses with news print covering it, so I can lay out my parts on the table and photographs them and notate them.

If you have any examples of good approaches for this, or for spreadsheets to track it all, I'd appreciate any help you could give.

Kind regards,

Roland

[dirkbalter]

Roland,
I haven’t made much progress. I was gone for the better part of the last two month. I did however collect a bunch of engine and engine bay photos. Some are original and some in restored condition, from members as well as from restoration houses. It was pointed out by above that not all restorations are necessarily to the original condition. 
Tom Kizer created a spread sheet that he used and was willing to share.
I am more than happy to send you what I have.
Dirk 

[rbouch8828]

Hi Dirk,

I would love to have anything that would help me get organized and set up a system as I started removing parts. I have already removed the brake booster and I see a small clamp and screw over the wiring harness underneath. I'd like to take that off too, but that begins the 'little things that can easily get lost' list and I'd like to have a system in place first.

Kind regards,

Roland

[dirkbalter]

Roland,
I will e-mail you what I have.
Dirk