Author Topic: '68 280SL Issues - Starter? Won't run?  (Read 3338 times)

SWMHancock

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'68 280SL Issues - Starter? Won't run?
« on: May 19, 2017, 01:00:22 »
Hello all!
I'm new to this forum, although I've had my baby since 1990.
Maintained with care when needed, she is a beauty (from 10' away she's perfect) and a legacy for my son.

Currently I have 2 issues.

1 - She won't start.  When the key is turned to the 1st position, you can hear the fuel pump (?) engage. However, when I turn to start, I only hear a click.  The battery is new and fully charged.  My research keeps pointing to either the starter or the starter solenoid.  Would someone please respond and let me know if you concur, and if so, what is the part I need to replace the starter?  Is it the Bosch SR59X or another part?

2 - The last time she was in the shop for a checkup she left the shop running just fine.  However, after about 15 minutes, I began to lose power, and after several attempts to rev up to maintain speed, she eventually died.  I called a flatbed and waited.  About 45 minutes later, as the flatbed arrived, she started and seem to be OK.  As I go home, about 15 more minutes later, she did it again, just in time for me to get her in the garage.  There she has stayed until now.

HELP?

I am NOT a mechanic, but know several who are happy to take my money.  I'd like to become better educated and will begin living on this site to mooch off of your kind hearts.

Thanks so much,
Steve

Tyler S

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Re: '68 280SL Issues - Starter? Won't run?
« Reply #1 on: May 19, 2017, 01:11:39 »
Can you elaborate on this "checkup"? What was done/replaced?
It may help pinpoint potential issues.
1968 (67) 250sl. 4 speed manual. DB180 Silver
1955 220 Cabriolet A. White Grey
2019 E450 Wagon. Majestic Blue
1936 Ford PU Flathead V8. Creme on tan interior.
1989 Volkswagen T3 Westfailia Campmobile. Dove Grey (blue)

SWMHancock

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Re: '68 280SL Issues - Starter? Won't run?
« Reply #2 on: May 19, 2017, 01:15:46 »
The checkup was simply an oil change, annual inspection (state law), and general look over.  Nothing major.

Jordan

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Re: '68 280SL Issues - Starter? Won't run?
« Reply #3 on: May 19, 2017, 01:30:09 »
Steve, first issue sounds like your starter.  I don't have the info handy but if you have the original starter there is a lighter high torque starter you can get as a replacement.  Do a search as I replaced mine a few years a go with the same symptom.  Problem solved.

The second issue sounds like you have a fuel delivery issue, likely a dirty/rusted fuel tank clogging up your flower pot or the filters (there are 3, one in the tank, one in the fuel pump and a large one in the engine bay).  You'll need to remove the fuel sender to look in your tank to see what shape it is in.  Again I had the same problem, very rusty tank that would clog the flower pot preventing fuel getting to the pump once it had dropped to a certain level in the tank.  Check your tank, clean your filters and do a volume check back at the tank.
Marcus
66 230SL  Euro 4 speed

SWMHancock

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Re: '68 280SL Issues - Starter? Won't run?
« Reply #4 on: May 19, 2017, 01:39:32 »
Jordan,

Thanks for the thoughts.  I'll look for the newer starter and give it a try.  It looks like a fairly do-able project for me and my son.  Do you happen to know the model of the newer starter?

As for the fuel, I was just talking with a friend and he thought the same.  My only concern there is the the tank was removed and sandblasted several years ago and sealed with a lifetime warranty against any type of deterioration or rust.  But, looking through the 3 filters is easy enough to do.

I'll report back when I have something to share.

Steve

Shvegel

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Re: '68 280SL Issues - Starter? Won't run?
« Reply #5 on: May 19, 2017, 07:27:04 »
Since your car is an automatic transmission car it might be that the neutral safety switch has developed a problem.  This switch is designed to keep the car from starting unless it is in Park or Neutral.   The switch is on the firewall under the hood just to the driver's side of where the hood latches.  it is connected by a cable to the transmission shift shaft.  it is not uncommon for this cable to break or disintegrate at the housing.  here are a couple of checks you can do.  First with the key on and the wheels blocked (parking brake on if you know it works) or using a helper see if the reverse lights are on when the shift lever is moved to reverse?  Second, have a helper make sure the arm on the switch connected to the cable is moving when you move the shift lever.  It shouldn't have a lot of play in it so when you start to move the lever it should move.  there is a mark on the lever that is used to set the switch when it is installed but I do not recall the procedure.  I will search and get back to you so we can see if it is properly adjusted.
« Last Edit: May 19, 2017, 07:52:47 by Shvegel »