I rolled my pagoda last night...

[ja17]

Hi John,
Looks like #4 injector line is routed on the wrong side of the #1 injector line near the IP. Routing those lines can be confusing after they are all apart. Maybe this photo can help...…………..

[johnk]

I just noticed the oil cooler hoses with the original type screw on fittings. Did you remake the hose assemblies?

I did not Wallace. They came with the car when I bought it five years ago. The hoses are still flexible with no signs of cracks so I wasn’t planning on replacing them.

[johnk]

Hi John,
Looks like #4 injector line is routed on the wrong side of the #1 injector line near the IP. Routing those lines can be confusing after they are all apart. Maybe this photo can help...…………..
[/quote

Thanks you joe! Everything is pretty much just loose now but I will make sure I check them and get them in the right place. Amazing that you could lick that out from the picture.

[johnk]

Just put together the horns after refinishing them.
I didn’t mention before that my time valve exhaust went in without a hitch. I am using clamps for now but plan on welding the exhaust later after the car is running and I can take to my friends shop with a lift.

[wwheeler]

Nice to have the original fittings and are next to impossible to find. Keep those for sure and don’t throw them away in favor of the newer crimped style.

[66andBlue]

John,
horns look great but take a small brush and paint the 8 screws on the cover black.
https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/Horns

[doitwright]

When are you going to make the holes in the firewall for the AC linesets?

[johnk]

John,
horns look great but take a small brush and paint the 8 screws on the cover black.
https://www.sl113.org/wiki/Electrical/Horns

Alfred,
Are you sure the screws should be black? I thought I saw on original picture where they were silver. Happy to take a brush to them if they should be black.

Jn

[johnk]

When are you going to make the holes in the firewall for the AC linesets?

Frank,

Was planning on doing that as soon as I was able to get it running and bring it over to my own garage. Schvegel just drilled his holes as was going to give me some guidance from his experience when I am ready.  He made up the hoses for me already as well. Friends from this site like you Pat, Joe, etc. etc. are priceless!

Are you done with the Michigan project?

John

[mbzse]

.../...are you sure the screws should be black?

Yes.
See this posting https://www.sl113.org/forums/index.php?topic=28625.msg206999#msg206999

[johnk]

http://historic.motoringinvestments.com/images/Z104/uc13.JPG

The picture above from
The holy grail is what I was looking at. Seems that the screws were either not painted or the paint was chipping off.

[Jonny B]

I would suspect the paint is chipping off. On my 280 SL, the screws sort of looked silver, but when I got up and close, you could see the black paint. I think the overall look with black is better anyway, it does not draw attention to the horns, there is an even black flow as you look underneath the car.

[johnk]

I agree. I will touch them up.

Thanks for advice.

John

[Shvegel]

JonnyB,  It is interesting that you mentioned a "black flow" under the car.  A while back Aaron H and I were discussing the correct finishes on the brake calipers and My position was the calipers are yellow zinc finish and Aaron thought they were yellow zinc but the inside faces were painted black.  We agreed to disagree but a few days ago I was looking at my car from the front and thought, "You know they do sort of stick out around all the black under the car.

[wwheeler]

I think I posted this picture which shows that the calipers were black on the insides. I have a 20 + something MB file and when you zoom in, it is pretty clear what is painted and what is not. I think it is a legit argument. If they sprayed chassis black on the calipers, I can't imagine the paint would be able to stand the heat over time and would flake off. Sort of like the exhaust manifolds. And maybe why so few people ever see these finishes on cars that were driven and not stored in a time capsule. 

[johnk]

I am ready to try and start the car finally but I need to get the brakes and clutch bled first and could use some advice. Reading the bleeding threads on this site I assumed a pressure bleeder pushes the fluid up from the bleed screw to the reservoir. The only bleeding system I was able to buy locally is a vacuum system that attaches to the bleed screw and creates a vacuum to suck the fluid from the reservoir down. I tried this system on both the brakes and the clutch slave and I get nothing but air with no drop in the level of fluid in the reservoirs.

 I checked all the fittings to be tight. I also tried having my son pump the brake pedal the old fashion way and that didn't work either. I am only opening the bleed screws slightly so they are not the source of the air.

Any suggestions?

thanks gents
John

[wwheeler]

I have used both systems and the pressure blender is by far the best. The pressure bleeder has a cap that fits on top of the reservoir and seals the system. You pump up the tank which then pressureizes the whole system. The with the system presurized, you go to each individual bleeder and open it up until there is no air.

Yes, the vacuum bleeder sucks brake fluid into the jar from the bleeder. The biggest issue is that air also get sucked in around the bleeder itself. As soon as you loosen the bleeder, brake fluid will get drawn in but also will draw air around the bleeder via the threads. Because of that, you have no idea when you have removed the air from the lines. I think you are better off doing the two man procedure instead of the vacuum procedure. The pressure bleeder and the two man procedure are similar in theory.

I use a Motive pressure bleeder and they have an adapter for our cars. If you put brake fluid in the pressure tank, you do not have to depressurize and add more fluid. It does it automatically. But cleaning up later can make a mess and I choose not to do that. I just depressurize the system when the brake fluid gets low and manually add fluid to top off. Not that big of a deal and a whole lot easier than cleaning up later.

[johnk]

Thanks Wallace. I have to figure out why the old pumping the brake method doesn’t work either. I had no problems with the brakes before I took car apart.

[mrfatboy]

New master cylinder?  Is it primed? I put a new one in recently and primed it on the bench first.

[kampala]

John,

I use a mityvac on the brakes and clutch on the 250.  It works great.    The 250 has a bleeder on clutch master just above the pedal.  I think other models do not have this bleeder. 

I use the "insert" rubber tip in the mityvac kit - the one that goes inside the bleeder, push and twist.
build up some vacuum and then crack the bleeder very slightly. 

Make sure you have vacuum pressure when you close the bleeder.

You can use pipe tape on the bleeder threads to stop outside air being sucked by vacuum  but I have not needed to do that.  worked just fine without this. 

If you have no pedal for brakes, at minimum you can gravity bleed.

[johnk]

New master cylinder?  Is it primed? I put a new one in recently and primed it on the bench first.

The master cylinder is not new but I should bench bleed it if I am going to do it by pumping the breaks.

[johnk]

John,

I use a mityvac on the brakes and clutch on the 250.  It works great.    The 250 has a bleeder on clutch master just above the pedal.  I think other models do not have this bleeder. 

I use the "insert" rubber tip in the mityvac kit - the one that goes inside the bleeder, push and twist.
build up some vacuum and then crack the bleeder very slightly. 

Make sure you have vacuum pressure when you close the bleeder.

You can use pipe tape on the bleeder threads to stop outside air being sucked by vacuum  but I have not needed to do that.  worked just fine without this. 

If you have no pedal for brakes, at minimum you can gravity bleed.

Oz
Maybe I’m not doing it right. I wasn’t building up pressure before I closed the blender. I will try it again thanks

John

[doitwright]

I use a mitivac also. Good tool to have for many tasks. With a hose connected to the mitivac and bleeder you can pump the handle on the vac then just crack the bleeder open til you see brake fluid flow. There is a recommended order I believe. Starting with brake closest to the master cylinder...or is it the furthest?

[mmizesko]

John,

Was at Mid Ohio on Sunday and Joe, Mike Simon and I were wondering when you were going to smash that bottle of Champagne over your front bumper?  You gotta be getting close.

Hope you are well.

Mike

[ja17]

Hi John, Make sure you did not intstall the brake calipers on the wrong sides.  The bleeder screws must also be at the top of the caliper. If you reverse them the bleeder will be at the bottom and air will stay in the calipers..