Author Topic: Engine power is back - why?  (Read 4174 times)

kampala

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Engine power is back - why?
« on: June 26, 2017, 17:15:42 »
I spent a couple of hours on the 250 this weekend and several unrelated tasks inadvertently resulted in a "happy ending."     Still not sure exactly what caused what.  The sequence of unrelated events:

I had noticed a small drip from the radiator drain bolt at the bottom of the radiator so was going to put a new seal and refill.  Did that.

Checked engine oil, added a few ounces.   

Checked Power steering fluid as I had noticed a little wetness on the hose below the reservoir. Added a little.  Will attack the hose change etc at another time.    Making a nice mess in the front of the engine.

While adding the power steering fluid, staring right at me was the thermo time switch.  The cold start valve has not been kicking in when it should recently and to keep from cranking a lot, I sometimes use a jumper wire from positive battery to the CSV with the fuel pump running.     Giving it a couple of seconds of activation. A while ago, when I was having Cold Start issues, I had cleaned up the connections on the TTS and it had started working, so thought I would give that a go again.  Removed the connections, wire brushed all contacts, and put it back together.   

While I was there, thought I would open the relays and make sure the relay points were clean.   I could not recall which relay activated the CSV, so opened up both suspects, cleaned the relay points, and cleaned the connectors and put them back together.

While I was there I opened up the fuse box and checked that all "looked" okay and gave each fuse a nice twist and checked that each was seated well. 

Cranked the cold engine over and it started immediately.    Even in Southern California 23C/73F the engine takes a bit of cranking if the CSV doesn't kick in.  The CSV did it's thing.  I was thrilled.  Success.    But this was not the happy ending. 

Now that the Pagoda was started and idling, I couldn't just turn it off and put it to bed, like I had intended.   That would be like grabbing the dog-leash from behind the door and leaving fido, wagging his tail, without a walk and just putting the leash back.  Not right at all.  I could not do that to the Pagoda. 

During the drive, I instantly noticed that the car had a lot more power.   Thought it was just on that one street, but then it was clearly more powerful pulling up a steep hill, around bends and roads I know well.  Difficult to put a percentage on power increase but I would say it felt 20% stronger.   Clearly, without a doubt stronger.  But I did not do anything that would improve power. 

Now I pull into the driveway and I notice that the idle (car is fully warm) which usually sits at 700-800 is at 1100.  Checked linkage and nothing sticky.   WRD not stuck.  Disconnected the CSV and no change.  Checked side access at CSV and no leaking.   Determined that CSV was not adding fuel when warm. 

So what's going?   Car has more power, like it used to have.  Very happy about that.  I was thinking the engine has slowly just gotten tired and that's why I felt less power.   

Did the split linkage test at idle and car was running very rich.  This was not the case prior to my fiddling.    What did I do that made this change?   

I went ahead and leaned out the idle many clicks on the Pump.  This brought the idle back down to 700-800.   It's still a little rich at idle (based on split linkage) but decided to leave it there, as I already dialed it back probably 6 clicks.   

 
Happy Ending as I have significant more power - but what caused it? 



I have some guesses on what happened,  but not sure and would like to read your thinking.   

Some history - a few months ago, the plugs looked suspiciously lean. This was sudden as they usually looked tan. I adjusted to make things a little richer as the plugs were too white.   Did not understand how it could suddenly have gone lean and never found any air leaks etc.
250sl - later - manual
280sl - 1971 - Auto - LSD

Pawel66

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Re: Engine power is back - why?
« Reply #1 on: June 27, 2017, 12:22:24 »
The other relay you cleaned is, I guess, for the FIP solenoid. Not sure if it should have an effect on power while driving, but maybe you unblocked something that made your mixture richer and that had an effect on power if you were too lean before. Or the solenoid activated, got stuck and made the mixture permanently richer.

You broke it, actually...  :P

I wish I had similar experience  ::)
Pawel

280SL 1970 automatic 180G Silver
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Benz Dr.

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Re: Engine power is back - why?
« Reply #2 on: June 27, 2017, 14:05:59 »
Fuse for your fuel pump was dirty and now you have full power to your pump?
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
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1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
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Cees Klumper

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Re: Engine power is back - why?
« Reply #3 on: June 27, 2017, 16:03:29 »
You didn't happen to 'bump' ignition timing in some way while rooting around?
Cees Klumper
1969 Mercedes 280 SL automatic
1968 Ford Mustang 302 V8
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Shvegel

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Re: Engine power is back - why?
« Reply #4 on: June 29, 2017, 12:02:20 »
I'm with Dan(Benz Dr)

Tyler S

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Re: Engine power is back - why?
« Reply #5 on: June 29, 2017, 14:41:36 »
Either the timing was bumped advanced or the cleaning/repair of the enrichment solenoid relay contacts caused the solenoid to start functioning. The solenoid could be not fully retracting. You should hear a loud click when its energized and another loud click when it retracts.
My 250 exhibited the same condition when I replaced the relay. The solenoid hadnt functioned in years and was gummed up, not fully retracting. 
1968 (67) 250sl. 4 speed manual. DB180 Silver
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kampala

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Re: Engine power is back - why?
« Reply #6 on: June 30, 2017, 03:57:50 »
All,

Thanks very much for your thoughts.  Greatly appreciated.   

Pawel & Tyler, I think both of of you are suggesting I check the solenoids that are attached to the back of the Injection pump.   Tonight I tried to check the solenoid but am not sure how to tell if it is stuck or not.  With the engine turned off, I did put 12V to the solenoid and it clicks. I assume, I would have to remove it to really know?

Cees & Tyler, I didn't bump the dizzy that I recall, but checked it tonight and it was tight tight.  Vac lines intact and working properly.   

Dan & Shvegel,  is it possible that the fuse connection was weak and hence the fuel pressure was lower and kept the car lean?  Hence a spin of the fuse improved the connection and the pump provided proper pressure?  If the pump was running a touch weak, would the car run lean?  If this is true, it might be what happened.   Tonight, I tried to recreate a bad connection (very unscientifically) by adding some gauze between the fuse (see photo).  I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but with the gauze in place, and after I got enough connection to get the pump whirring, the car was no longer running the same, the idle did drop and split linkage showed it was no longer rich.   

I will have a chance to drive it a bit this weekend and If I can figure out how to check if the solenoid is stuck, I would like to do that.   Any further advice appreciated.

Thanks much,

250sl - later - manual
280sl - 1971 - Auto - LSD

Cees Klumper

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Re: Engine power is back - why?
« Reply #7 on: June 30, 2017, 05:44:18 »
Sounds to me like Dan's explanation ia the winner: poor fuse connection for the fuel pump.
Cees Klumper
1969 Mercedes 280 SL automatic
1968 Ford Mustang 302 V8
1961 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint Coupe 1600
1962 FIAT 1500S OSCA convertible
1972 Lancia Fulvia Coupe 1.3
1983 Porsche 944 2.5
1990 Ford Bronco II

Shvegel

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Re: Engine power is back - why?
« Reply #8 on: July 04, 2017, 14:03:25 »
We used to get Volvo 240's towed in all the time.  The procedure was to open the fuse panel, spin fuse 5 and send the customer on their way.

Whoever designed that fuse set up for Bosch made a lot of money for tow truck drivers and mechanics. 

Benz Dr.

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Re: Engine power is back - why?
« Reply #9 on: July 04, 2017, 16:51:42 »
DING! DING! DING!
1966 230SL 5 speed, LSD, header pipes, 300SE distributor, ported, polished and balanced, AKA  ''The Red Rocket ''
Dan Caron's SL Barn

1970  3.5 Coupe
1961  190SL
1985   300CD  Turbo Coupe
1981  300SD
2013  GMC  Sierra
1965  230SL
1967 250SL
1970 280SL
1988 560SEC