Upper Side Moldings Removal & Installation

[Typpo]

I am planning to replace the upper chrome side moldings (with rubber inserts), all 8 pieces. I know they are ridiculously expensive. I may choose to rechrome the originals once I take them off. All other chrome parts on my car are decent but these are pitted and rusty so they stand out as eyesores (well, probably to me only because that's where I always look at).

I see the rearmost one on the passenger side is attached with a screw and the clip behind the body panel next to the muffler. I'm sure the clips on the doors are reachable by removing the door panels. So here's my question: how do you reach the ones inside the fenders? They seem completely enclosed.

I would appreciate your insight.

[mbzse]

.../... the upper chrome side moldings (with rubber inserts),.../... how do you reach the ones inside the fenders? They seem completely enclosed

You remove the rubber strip away from the chrome moulding, then you undo the screws that become visible

[Typpo]

Thanks for your reply. Yes I know that you remove the rubber strip and reach the screws. Are you saying there are no clips behind the panel to hold the screws and that the body panel is holding the screws? Thanks.

[Garry]

Simple answer is Yes

[neelyrc]

Typpo,

Welcome to the Forum.  The “search” function is your friend.  Fourth button from the left at the top of the page.

There are a number of threads which have discussed this subject in detail.  I believe the original screws under the rubber strip were self tapping. Some have found these screws badly corroded and replaced them with stainless or other fasteners. Search the entire forum for relevant posts on the subject by typing in a discriptive phrase in the search function.

Again, welcome to the forum.

[Typpo]

Since the rearmost ones have clips in the back (see pic), I assumed the rest were held the same. No clips and self-tapping makes it a lot easier. Thanks everyone for your help!

[Jonny B]

As Ralph has written, the screws under the rubber strip can corrode (and most likely have to some degree). The external tell-tale is a series of bumps in the rubber as you look at the strip from the top. That can make them a real pain in the #$%^ to get out. When you remove the rubber, assess as best you can what the screws are like. Probably not a bad idea to spray a bit of penetrating oil on them. If you strip the head, then a drill out is probably on the agenda, and that requires care. The drilling process can increase the size of the hole, and then requires a slightly larger screw. Then the head of the screw may not recede fully into the metal strip.

On those you can reach, it is best to try to work them from the back rather than drilling.

Again, as per Ralph, highly recommend replacing them with stainless steel. You will never have to worry about them again.

Also, I would recommend trying to save the rubber inserts if they are the originals. The replacement material comes in a roll you need to cut to fit, and it is difficult to get the rounded edges as the cars had from the factory.

[mbzse]

Since the rearmost ones have clips in the back (see pic).../...

A previous owner (PO) has put these "clips" in your SL. From factory, the screws were steel self tapping and simply went into a hole in the bodywork. Unfortunately, the area is prone to corrosion just as JonnyB writes (steel/brass/steel or on doors steel/brass/aluminium).
However, I have chosen to use M4 brass countersunk screws with a plastic washer and a brass nut on my cars (see pic). As the chromed trim strip is made from brass there are two metals, thus reducing the galvanic ladder

[Typpo]

Thanks for all your input. This has been very helpful. I see that most of the screws under the rubber strip are not corroded as my car overall is rust free. I will attempt to unscrew them all and see if it's cheaper to re-chrome them or just but them for $850 (yikes).